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race gas

  • Thread starter Thread starter amxsteve
  • Start date Start date
Another option would be a line lock for the front brake, wired to the 2-step button. Will stop any creep on the starting line if your adjustment is a little off.

If you've been street riding only for a long time, switching brakes from 1 side to the other always seemed like an accident waiting to happen. Old habits take over when things go south and you're likely to grab the wrong brake.
I understand why it's done, just never liked the idea myself

As said before, with a slider don't roll into the throttle or you're going to burn up the clutch plates.....pin it and then back off some after the tire starts spinning.
My personal burnout method is to set the front brake, whack the throttle open until the shift light starts blinking and hold it there until the tire is hot enough.

Finding a method that works for you and the bike will take some experimenting...good luck and be safe.
 
I have to disagree and it is a safety issue why I jump in here!

- if you ever do use a line lock on a bike = L.L. the rear brake! Do you want 7 inches or not quite 2 inches of tire traction holding 160++ horses from crashing the gate?

say again L.L. the rear brake!

sorry when the clutch is hot and grabby your locked front wheel will skidder and wash or just lift and GO with you flailing like a rag doll!

When the clutch is bumping you should chip a step lower/ or check the steels.

A L.L. will smoke a clutch if you have too little air gap and set the 2 step too close to the stall. all in the time for the 3 ambers flash.

line lock or not if you get good and fast at checking the clutch plates and keep good in spec plates/ and good AIR GAP inside there you never need one.
besides it is another electric thingy to go bad at the wrong time.
 
Not disagreeing with your examples, but have been using that setup for several years with no issues.

Probably should have added, both brakes are on 1 m/c with a proportioning valve on the rear (which set fairly light to keep from locking up).

Might also add...if I'm lucky enough to make it into the late rounds, we often get hot lapped. There's barely enough time for gas and air....much less a clutch adjustment.
 
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bike has run a best of 9.06 with Bob at the helm and he stated it will do low 1.30s fairly easily and after only two passes i dont doubt it for a second. I was suprised how non eventful the second launch was when Bob said it was like riding the scooter he wasnt far off.Thanks for all the responses but i am still pretty sure i will switch the brakes around.I pulled the clutch apart last night and a couple of the friction plates had NO material left ouch.Also sent an e-mail to mtc to get there take on different friction plates but he said to stay with whatever was in it.All i know is that it,s gonna be a fun summer and i am planning to be at the track Sun oops how am i gonna swing that with the wife,hey babe lets spend the day together maybe a nice drive through the country.
all the KPM slider bikes have the front brake on the left side - that is why I asked. for sure put it there. and rear on the right. I had to get used to that. Also my 1-2 auto was on a thumb switch on the right side !! CONFUSING !!

a 1:47 is really a good 60' time for a 9:90 bike.. getting lower than that will take some tweaking or dieting.:D

tire pressure, wheelie bar height, stall rpm, jetting, gearing, etc..

during burnouts -- you have to get the clutch locked up tight so when the tire heats up and really starts to pull the engine down it won't slip inside the engine.
 
this bike is so different than all my others that switching the brakes is only one more thing i have to remember. two step,delay box, air shift slider,shift light,peg position. I will get used to it and then i will show them all
Another option would be a line lock for the front brake, wired to the 2-step button. Will stop any creep on the starting line if your adjustment is a little off.

If you've been street riding only for a long time, switching brakes from 1 side to the other always seemed like an accident waiting to happen. Old habits take over when things go south and you're likely to grab the wrong brake.
I understand why it's done, just never liked the idea myself

As said before, with a slider don't roll into the throttle or you're going to burn up the clutch plates.....pin it and then back off some after the tire starts spinning.
My personal burnout method is to set the front brake, whack the throttle open until the shift light starts blinking and hold it there until the tire is hot enough.

Finding a method that works for you and the bike will take some experimenting...good luck and be safe.
 
all tuned up and ready to rock this saturday.wont be able to compete till i get my medical form done and make a couple passes but i can test all day.This Sat will be test 2 with a couple spare clutchs on board and a new inner hub that looked like it,s seen better days.times and pics to follow
 
all tuned up and ready to rock this saturday.wont be able to compete till i get my medical form done and make a couple passes but i can test all day.This Sat will be test 2 with a couple spare clutchs on board and a new inner hub that looked like it,s seen better days.times and pics to follow

Cool! I won't have web access until Sunday night, but will check in and see how it went....:)
 
Question?I was told that my Low Comp 1260 kit did not have the power to get a slider to work better than a lock up,was told you need a 1327+to get a slider clutch moving??anytruth?
 
Question?I was told that my Low Comp 1260 kit did not have the power to get a slider to work better than a lock up,was told you need a 1327+to get a slider clutch moving??anytruth?


No truth at all.
Have been using 1 in smaller motors than yours and it works great.
Size/power of the motor has nothing to do with it.
 
Steve, i have seen snippets of info on the GTA site about NHRA/IHRA license requirements for the fast guys.[10.0@135.0]
Have you heard anything?
 
Steve, i have seen snippets of info on the GTA site about NHRA/IHRA license requirements for the fast guys.[10.0@135.0]
Have you heard anything?
getting my medical on thurs,have the nhra forms and i will try to make my qualifying passes if it ever stops raining.They seem pretty lax at tmp but it,s just a matter of time before they clamp down. I have tried to do everything by the book but lots of the guys i have talked to up here have no liscences at all
 
120 M.P.H. or faster = need full leathers

9:99 or faster you need liscensure.


I thought the post about the track advising to lift at 1000' was very progressive and helpful - for a track official to give a squid a clue is very cool- or maybe he could have told the rider to rub salt.

Chop it at 10:00 flat and run 119 M.P.H. and you won't have to deal with red tape.

physical=$50.00
2 year ETMX NHRA license $100.00
2 year NHRA membership $128.00
Just did all this last week and I'm good until May 2013
 
can everybody on the forum pray for good weather Fri.I have only made 1.5 passes and i have been to the track 4 times
 
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