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ran great after carb sync, now doesn't want to stay running

  • Thread starter Thread starter 60ratrod
  • Start date Start date
6

60ratrod

Guest
so I went to finally go test ride the 650g last night andwent to start it, and it wouldn't start on any choke setting. I would have to turn the throttle to get themotor to light off. after I could get itto light off, it wouldn't idle, just stall out. and it has plenty of fuel. I had to turn up the idle adjustment knob wayup just to get it to barely idle. theonly thing I did was I replaced a fried ground wire that I found that goes fromthe starter solenoid/battery tray assembly and had to replace it all the way towhere it t's at the horn junction. sinceI had to dig into the harness i'm going to see if I damaged any of the wires tothe right hand coil. any clues as to whatelse I should look at? I have posplayr'ssspb and when I turn the key off but leave the kill switch on, I get a faultlight on the sspb and my neutral and oil pressure lights stay on until I flipthe kill switch. this is why I want tolook at the coil/ignition wiring, but also want ideas of what else to look at

I also heard a knocking sound, sounded like it was in thetop end. how big of a mess would I makeif I took the cam cover off and ran it like that for diagnostic purposes? I assume oil will get slung around, but willit be as bad as a small block chevy? i'mthinking this is going to be my sunday project, since the weather is supposedto be crap and my yard needs some love. I also will look to see if my ignition rotor/advancer has come loose, since it appears to be coming from the right side of the bike. I hope I don't have to pull the motor again
 
60ratrod said:
how big of a mess would I makeif I took the cam cover off and ran it like that for diagnostic purposes? I assume oil will get slung around, but willit be as bad as a small block chevy?
Click to expand...
No, it will be WORSE than a small block Chevy. :-\\\

Oil won't just get slung around, it builds up around the cam and buckets and will overflow down the front and back of the engine.

You might get away with running it for 5-10 seconds or so, but that's about it.

.
 
That's why i asked. Visual inspection first then potentially turn my garage into the nex exon-Valdez.....
 
Ok, so i did some trouble shooting with the ignition, and found yet another bad dyna coil for starts. The left coil produced no spark. Pulled it and tested the primary windings and found 4.5 ohms. No bueno. Good thing i had a spare from my first set. Swapped it out and found that i had 1vdc drop on the o/w wire both coils. So i disconnected each signal wire from the coils. The left (white) signal wire disconnected, almost full battery on the o/w wire. Reconnected and disconnected black/yellow and still had 1vdc drop. Disconnecting the white also removed the fault. Reconnected the white and removed the left signal coil from the dyna s, looked at it and screwed it back down. Fault was still gone ( the whole turn off the key with the kill switch on and get a fault with oil and neutral lights on) and now had spark with both coils, but still had the 1vdc drop. I thought the sspb was supposed to fix this?
 
So now i have a bad pulser coil for the 1/4 channel. I've been talking with dyna and they are going to have me send it back. Hopefully they don't pitch a fit over me modifying the plate to fit.
 
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