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RATTLE CAN WORKS of art -- SHOW ME ----

  • Thread starter Thread starter getsum
  • Start date Start date
Did you clearcoat the paint that was ruined? Usually a cure time of 30 days prevents gas from eating off the top layer... Oh well, you will be doing it the other way this fall. I can't wait to see it.
 
Does anyone know about how much it would cost to have a body shop paint and clearcoat the tank, side panels, and fenders with a typical solid color? My time is worth a lot to me and 80 hours sounds a little expensive... especially if it's going to fall apart the first time I spill some fuel on it.
 
I asked around in the DC area and the cheapest I found was a little over $500 from a gypsy... Normal shops wanted (I kid you not) $1,000.00 to complete the job. I have even had one of my bikes done for $100. It was great. I did all the prep and he shot it.

It seems it would be worth it for a forum member who paints to make good side money to paint. Not at $1,000 per job, but to offer a deal for forum members... Meaning to make up for a lower cost by recieving a large volume of business from this board.
 
Greg's 80 hours was mostly prep ... and that's the sort of thing you can do a lot of yourself, before turning it over to a pro for the finishing work. The key to a good result is in the prep, whether you do it or a pro does it. If the painted surfaces aren't well prepped, the final result will be disappointing.

Regards,
 
Planecrazy said:
Greg's 80 hours was mostly prep ... and that's the sort of thing you can do a lot of yourself, before turning it over to a pro for the finishing work. The key to a good result is in the prep, whether you do it or a pro does it.
Click to expand...

See, I tried to do that. Every "pro" or even "side job" guy refused to accept my prep work. Becasue the prepwork is 80% of a paintjob, they seem to insist on it.

I could probally do a paintjob much faster this time. I know where I can "cut corners" now, and not affect the final job. I also have proper skimcoat material. Wetsanding the parts really isn't that big of a deal...

Now here's the sticky part about painting something. Each layer is about $70. Want two colors and two stage paint? That's $210 in materials right off the bat.
 
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I have a compressor and two paint guns, Greg ... Oh and absolutely no experience with them (although I've always been good with rattle cans). If you want to try again you're welcome to come on over and we'll learn together...

Of course we'll have to find an old oven if we want to properly bake the paint.

Regards,
 
Planecrazy said:
I have a compressor and two paint guns, Greg
Click to expand...
That's exactly why I bought the paint. :-) I just need to have things ready to paint before I come to paint. It's gloss black if there's anything you need painted.
 
Nerobro said:
That's exactly why I bought the paint. :-) I just need to have things ready to paint before I come to paint. It's gloss black if there's anything you need painted.
Click to expand...
...Got enough to cover my Excursion? (just kidding!!):lol::lol:;-)

Maybe I'll finally have my trunk rack cleaned up and ready for paint when you come by... I still have some additional welding/grinding/prepping to do though.
 
By the way ... it just occurred to me how to create a very effective and inexpensive "paint booth" inside a garage ... buy a used (or inexpensive new) large tent and set it up inside the garage ... then use a HEPA air filter to take the dust out of the air inside the tent. Presto! = economical but effective paint booth!!

Regards,
 
1980 gs450l tank

1980 gs450l tank

used Dupli-Color Mirage Ice
tank.jpg
 
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Planecrazy said:
By the way ... it just occurred to me how to create a very effective and inexpensive "paint booth" inside a garage ... buy a used (or inexpensive new) large tent and set it up inside the garage ... then use a HEPA air filter to take the dust out of the air inside the tent. Presto! = economical but effective paint booth!!
Click to expand...

GENIUS! I'll start hunting tents.
 
Planecrazy said:
By the way ... it just occurred to me how to create a very effective and inexpensive "paint booth" inside a garage ... buy a used (or inexpensive new) large tent and set it up inside the garage ... then use a HEPA air filter to take the dust out of the air inside the tent. Presto! = economical but effective paint booth!!

Regards,
Click to expand...
you can also run some water on the concrete floor to help keep the dust down... (my Dad used to do that in his shop)

BTW: my wife had a local guy do the clearcoat and it cost her $40 for the fenders,side covers and tank. he used a thick clear and said to let it cure for 30 days and then you can wax and it will be ok for gas spillage. (eventhough i will be EXTRA carefull anyway!)
 
Nerobro said:
GENIUS! I'll start hunting tents.
Click to expand...

Better get an extra large one ... I think I just felt my head expanding!:shock::lol:;-)
 
Planecrazy said:
I have a compressor and two paint guns, Greg ... Oh and absolutely no experience with them (although I've always been good with rattle cans). If you want to try again you're welcome to come on over and we'll learn together...

Of course we'll have to find an old oven if we want to properly bake the paint.

Regards,
Click to expand...

hvlp or suction gun? suction gunshould work just fine with most small 1-2 hp compressors hvlp's require more air volume. TRY IT! yourself it can't hurt.

acrylic enamel with a hardener in it= no bake, cover it with a box to keep out the dust while drying.
 
cloudbreakmd said:
It seems it would be worth it for a forum member who paints to make good side money to paint. Not at $1,000 per job, but to offer a deal for forum members... Meaning to make up for a lower cost by recieving a large volume of business from this board.
Click to expand...
I would gladly do this for extra money. PM for pix if anyone wants to see a little of my work. I have everything to do it and lots of experience with rattle and real paint. I learned like every kid with rattle, then moved on to the fun toys and useful paint lol. I would probably be willing to do tank/side covers/fenders/wheels/brakes/fork tubes/frames [not chrome, that would be more]...anything if you shipped it to me. I would expect the main body parts to be about 4-5 hundred for a solid color and going up from there depending on what kind of paint and/or work you'd want done. I'd have to think about how much I'd want to charge for a frame or chrome fenders. I can do any custom ideas too. I'm not a body man by trade, but paint a lot as a hobby.
 
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rustybronco said:
hvlp or suction gun? suction gunshould work just fine with most small 1-2 hp compressors hvlp's require more air volume. TRY IT! yourself it can't hurt.

acrylic enamel with a hardener in it= no bake, cover it with a box to keep out the dust while drying.
Click to expand...

Actually I don't know which type of guns I have ... one came with the compressor (2 hp -- 8 gallon 3.8cfm/90psi), so I'd guess it's a suction style.

Thanks for the suggestions regarding "no bake." The box idea is clever as well, but since the part will be inside a mostly "dust free" tent I'm guessing it should be pretty safe after we spray it.

Regards,
 
I painted the lower fairing, fender, and cafe fairing to match the tank, covers, and tail section previously painted. I had to use $30 cans of ColorRite www.colorrite.com paint though, so it wasn't cheap. Lots of clearcoat...

lower%20fairing%20painted.jpg


new%20fender%20001.jpg


new%20fender%20002.jpg


New%20Cafe%20Fairing%205-27-05%20003.jpg


~Adam
 
How can I post pics in here arggg

How can I post pics in here arggg

Hi I have a 1982 gs850 with some before and after pics how can I post em in here I'm having some trouble with the size max for the attachment. thanks
 
8trackmind said:
Not so fast.
One spark from static electricity and you're a gone. Most fans (or compressors for that matter) don't have sealed motors.
Take a look at the MSDS sheets for the paint you have. I'm pretty sure the flash point on your reducer is around 75 degrees.:shock:
Click to expand...

Awww,...that would've been fun! What a party pooper.
 
8trackmind said:
Not so fast.
One spark from static electricity and you're a gone. Most fans (or compressors for that matter) don't have sealed motors.
Take a look at the MSDS sheets for the paint you have. I'm pretty sure the flash point on your reducer is around 75 degrees.:shock:
Click to expand...

A valid point, but who says the compressor and/or the air filter need to be in the tent (where the fumes will be highest? The garage door can remain open and the "offending appliances" can remain outside the tent where the fumes won't be. Creating a duct to bring the fresh filtered air in from the outside shouldn't be that complicated. Thanks for mentioning it, Jeff! I STILL have my eyebrows and would like to keep them!:shock::lol:;-)
 
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