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Re-installing Clutch cover 83 GS1100L

  • Thread starter Thread starter BRJones
  • Start date Start date
B

BRJones

Guest
Hi,

I recently replaced the clutch springs with OEM springs because my clutch was incredibly difficult to squeeze. I changed them one at a time and torqued them to the correct setting. I am now trying to place the cover back onto the crankcase, and I am to the part where I am supposed to "engage the teeth of the clutch release rack with those of the pinion gear at the clutch cover side, and replace the clutch cover. Make sure the rack and pinion gear engage positively." Is there some secret to this that I am missing? I have tried 3 or 4 times and I cannot get the teeth to engage. My clutch arm just flops back and forth with no resistance. I have not forced it back on or broken anything. I just cannot figure out how to position the teeth to get it working. Any help/advice would be appreciated.

Brent
 
remove the lever arm before installing the cover. make sure the rack and pinion are lined up, as you say. bolt the cover up tight then refit the arm so it is parallel with the clutch cover mating surface. the clutch should work fine then.
 
I have the arm off, everything should line up. The teeth on the clutch release rack are facing forward. I guess I will just keep tinkering until I feel resistance. I hope to have it back on the road this evening.
 
I have the arm off, everything should line up. The teeth on the clutch release rack are facing forward. I guess I will just keep tinkering until I feel resistance. I hope to have it back on the road this evening.

the teeth on the clutch release rack should face rearward.
 
I have the clutch cover off and I have taken a few pictures to see if I can explain what I think the problem is. The teeth on the teeth on the clutch release rack have to face forward. The teeth on the pinion that is attached to the cover face rearward. Please see the picture below. When the cover is off the arm can spin 270 degrees because it hits the oil fill cap. When I put the cover on, the arm can only spin about 30 degrees, so the teeth are lining up and it is limiting the pinion travel. In the second picture, I am pointing to the clutch release rack. This piece is just flopping around like it is not attached to anything. It can move in and out between 1/2" and 3/4" and rotate 360 degrees. Should this be able to do that? I did not take any of the plates off when I changed the springs. I changed one bolt at a time. The clutch was perfectly adjusted before I changed the springs, it was just crazy tight, especially after I replaced the clutch cable and the new one had a beefier spring. I see no way for clutch release rack to do anything. Please let me know your thoughts.

Brent
 
Picture 2. The clutch release rack that can move every direction
 
teeth forward.
there is not wrong with your parts...this is how they are made.
install the cover with patience and your done.
 
teeth forward.
there is not wrong with your parts...this is how they are made.
install the cover with patience and your done.

I have had the cover on and off like 7 times. Even when I have the clutch arm disconnected from the cable and it is fully in toward the engine and I attempt to start the engine with the motorcycle up on the center stand, the rear wheel spins when cranking the engine. Is this normal? In neutral there is no movement. There is no possible cable adjustment that could be made as the arm is fully in. I guess I will put it back together fill it with oil again and give it a whirl. Maybe with it off the center stand it will act normal and is only spinning because there is no friction.

Thanks,
Brent
 
no oil needed.
just mess with it till the lever feels right.
on a 16 valve they have an E clip to hold the ratchet shaft from going in towards the engine when trying to install the cover.
of course your model doesn't.
this may be hard to do but far from impossible.
again...NO OIL TILL THE CLUTCH IS WORKING.
 
Can I crank the bike without oil? Other than the pinion arm only moving roughly 30 degrees, how can I know the clutch is working without starting the bike?
 
yes you can crank it but you should be able to feel if the clutch is ok without starting or cranking it.
 
It feels great. The scary part is how much lighter the lever feels with the different clutch springs. All hooked back up. Hopefully it is right.
 
How can I make an adjustment on the clutch to make it engage? I take the bike off the stand, I put it in first gear and hit the start button and the bike lurches. If the cable is not on the pinion arm, there is zero, and I mean zero resistance. The only thing that lets you know it is hooked up is the limited range of the pinion arm. Could the clutch springs be on too tight and they are all ready compressed? Aside from that I have nothing else I can think to try.
 
all you changed was the springs..
your over thinking this.
your lever on the clutch cover should be just about inline with the gasket surface or outwards or inwards a little..the rest of the adjustment is on the handlebar.(well you have adjustment on the engine case also..just do what seems right..maybe in the middle on the engine case adjustment.
run the handlebar adjuster to zero free play and put it in gear/pull in the clutch and see if it will roll any.
that's a start.
 
Here are some pictures. One with the cable connected, one with the cable disconnected. In the the second, even with the arm fully in, much further than my clutch cable can pull it, the bike is in gear. It cannot be moved, if I try to roll it, I hear the engine turn over. The clutch is not engaging.
 
And the second picture with the clutch arm fully in an still no change.
 
Shouldn't the pinion arm have some resistance? I can move it back and forth with zero resistance when the cable is disconnected. When the cable is connected, the only resistance is from the cable spring.
 
I will loosen the bolts that hold in the clutch springs. That is the only components that I have touched on the inside when messing with this.
 
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