Real Gaskets Incorporated - Silicone gaskets for valve cover

[AOD]

ah, just a little update here guys on the realgasket problem. Harold (who had the flu for a week or two) had his other guy working on my gasket. he offered to powder-coat my valve cover as a favor for me sending him the valve cover. i declined nicely, and he's sending me the valve cover and new gasket 2-day priority Fedex.

any of you wanting this gasket, but not shown on his site, can get one made by sending him the parts. it may be a month turn around, but during the winter you probably can manage.

Harold also made the upper cam-breather cover gasket as well for my bike.

~Adam

 

[Anonymous]

Okay, now I have an update too.

I got my gasket today with a little note from Harold telling me he'd been through Sudbury quite a few times back in the 50s. Anyway, the stamp on the envelope somewhat reflected the cost of shipping so no complaints there.

When putting on the gasket I decided to wing it. I really doubt that a clicker torque wrench would "click" at 12 inch/pounds anyway. I bet it wouldn't click until 60 which would ruin the gasket. It seems to me that 1/8th to 1/4 of a turn past snug is a good torque. You can see the silicone begin to squirm at this point and the bolt is fairly tight.

Could somebody with a high-end torque wrench confirm this?

Thanks, Steve

 

[saaz]

I have a zero to 80 ft/lb wrench. Set on 1 to 2 ft/lb it does not take much to make it click. I would think that 1/8th past finger tight would be about right, as long as the bolt was well lubricated. At these low settings friction can add a lot. The cam cover bolts are only 7 ft/lb and need only a 1/4 turn past finger tight

 

[Hap Call]

Thia is a little anal, but it can be used to do very low inch -lb torquing. They used to have small spring loaded hanging scales to measure postal weight. If you can locate one, put a verifed 16 oz weight on it and see what it reads (you are calibrating the scale), then put your wrench on the offending bolt, tie the scale 15 inches from the end of the wrench that is on the bolt, then pull on the loose end of the scale until it reads one pound or 16 ounces. If you do not have a wrench that is at least 15 inches long, tie the scale 7.5 inches from the bolt and pull util the scale reads 2 pounds (32 Inches).

I know, I know...THAT"S ANAL!!! But I'm an engineer...I can't help it!

Hap

 

[Joe Nardy]

I remember those hanging scales....................but we didn't use them for measuring MAIL!
:lol:
:wink:

Joe

 

[QuaiChangKane]

You'd probably be better off with a torque screwdriver. I have a K-D model that goes down to 10 inch-pounds. I bought it for working on radio base stations that use steel screws threaded into an aluminum frame for securing circuit cards. They take the same hex bits as a cordless drill, so you can buy a hex to 1/4" drive adapter for using sockets.


Any electronics dealer should be able to either sell or order you one. Mine was pricey at $175 (but Uncle Sam paid me back for it). It's a sweet microadjustable model made from billet aluminum - I'm sure you could find less pricey units with plastic bodies. Graybar, Grainger, and Fry's Electronics should be good places to start...



-Q!

 

[lhanscom]

Ok I'm going to sound off my ignorance. Why would you use a 15 inch wrench? I thought a foot pound was 1 pound of weight on a 1 foot lever (12 inches)?

 

[AOD]

it should hang 12 inches....and even at that, i dont think its a great way to check calibration

Joe...are you being gutter-minded?

 

[Hap Call]

it should hang 12 inches....and even at that, i dont think its a great way to check calibration

Joe...are you being gutter-minded?

Because 15 in-lbs is the equal of 15 inches of lever with 1 pound of force. Actually, this is VERY accurate and is also how they determine if the calibration on torque wrenches is correct. It is just very awkward.

Sears has in-lb torque screwdrivers but they cost US$149.99...kinda pricey.

Hap

 

[Paul]

it should hang 12 inches....and even at that, i dont think its a great way to check calibration

Joe...are you being gutter-minded?

Because 15 in-lbs is the equal of 15 inches of lever with 1 pound of force. Actually, this is VERY accurate and is also how they determine if the calibration on torque wrenches is correct. It is just very awkward.

Hap

I used to calibrate torque wrenches for a company who manufactured hydraulic fittings for the mining industry. That is exactly the method I used. It is the most accurate method. Remember Science at school, moments clockwise = moments anticlockwise.

 

[Anonymous]

So, how is everybody liking their real gaskets so far? I had my valve cover off for the first time using the "Real Gasket" and I'm happy with it. As usual I did find some more loose bolts (an ongoing problem since you really need to be able to torque them all down at once with a big machine) but there weren't any leaks. Maybe I'll try some star lock washers next time. Anyway, it took me about an hour total to R/R the valve cover and check the valve lash. The reinstall part was as simple as washing the gasket in the sink and using some solvent on the two mating surfaces. The gasket I pulled before took me about 5 hours.

Pros:
-I can check my cams for damage/lash whenever/whereever I want for free
-fast, easy and clean prepping of gasket, no need to oil a paper gasket for easy removal
-No trips required to order/pickup new gasket
-No contamination of engine with loose paper or sandpaper grit.

Cons:
-placing and replacing gasket while snugging down valve cover is 1 step above brain surgery so it can't be rushed
-overtightening the gasket will cut it
-always loose bolts

I feel that it is a great product overall. It would be nice if it used a denser material but I still won't consider going back to paper gaskets.

Steve

 

[Joe Nardy]

So, how is everybody liking their real gaskets so far? I had my valve cover off for the first time using the "Real Gasket" and I'm happy with it. As usual I did find some more loose bolts (an ongoing problem since you really need to be able to torque them all down at once with a big machine) but there weren't any leaks. Maybe I'll try some star lock washers next time. Anyway, it took me about an hour total to R/R the valve cover and check the valve lash. The reinstall part was as simple as washing the gasket in the sink and using some solvent on the two mating surfaces. The gasket I pulled before took me about 5 hours.

Pros:
-I can check my cams for damage/lash whenever/whereever I want for free
-fast, easy and clean prepping of gasket, no need to oil a paper gasket for easy removal
-No trips required to order/pickup new gasket
-No contamination of engine with loose paper or sandpaper grit.

Cons:
-placing and replacing gasket while snugging down valve cover is 1 step above brain surgery so it can't be rushed
-overtightening the gasket will cut it
-always loose bolts

I feel that it is a great product overall. It would be nice if it used a denser material but I still won't consider going back to paper gaskets.

Steve

I haven't had any loose bolts since I went back over them after a couple hundred miles. Are you using a torque wrench to tighten them? Maybe getting even torque helps. I got a Park Tools TW-1 torque wrench through a friend of mine that owns a bicycle shop. It is calibrated from 0-60 inch-pounds. I torque from the middle of the valve cover towards the outside alternating left/right and front/back. I also do it in steps rather than all in one tightening.

I am pleased with the Real Gasket.

That being said, the gasket I removed when I installed the Real Gasket is in such good shape that I saved it to be used in a pinch. It had been on the bike for quite a few years. When I installed it I coated both sides with high temp grease. I also recently pulled my stator cover after quite a few years and the gasket, which had also had the grease coating, could have been re-used too.

Joe