• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

rear brake bleeding

  • Thread starter Thread starter luc8421
  • Start date Start date
L

luc8421

Guest
I did some searching for my question, but I couldn't find anything

I recently removed my rear caliper, pistons, and brake line to clean them.
I put fluid in the resivoir, put the cap back on, and pumped the brake, then with a tube connected to the bleeder valve, opened it, closed it, and then followed all the steps, but my problem is that it isn't sucking in any fluid from the resivoir, since I tore my brake system apart so much, do I need to prime the master cylinder?
 
With the bleeder valve open and pumping the brake, does it push any fluid out?

If no, then you have lots of air in the system or vapor lock.

Take the cover off the resovoir and try pumping it again, put some thing, like a cloth, over the open res, otherwise fluid will go everywhere.
 
Bleeding the rear brake

Bleeding the rear brake

I recently had the same problem when overhauling the rear brakes on my Kat1100. What I did was loosen & tighten the point at which the brake hose bolts onto the upper end of the master cylinder (would have been easier if it had a bleeder valve up there); when fluid started to pump out, then I moved to the valves at the caliper end.
In short, yes, it's because you've got a hell of a lot of air everywhere in the system. But once you start to get the fluid moving into the system again, it's all a piece of pie.
Persevere!
Mike.
 
It just take time. If you have the cover off of the res. the fluid will "squirt" from the res once you release the brake lever...therefor, release very slowly. I may take 20-30 attempts of compressing the master cylinder, holding(always applying pressure), opening up the bleeder, allowing air/fluid to escape, closing the bleeder, SLOWLY releasing the lever and starting over again. Once you start to get fluid out of the bleeder, keep a close watch on the res. as you don't want to introduce air into the line because you ran out of fluid. To ensure that you have totally removed all air, repeat process many times...refill res. 2-3 times. This will ensure that you have no air left. Brake fluid is cheap, so don't be stingy. Use DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid.

Good luck...Craig
 
a while back i had the same problem with the fj. no matter what i did or how many times i pumped- no brake fluid to the calipers. turned out the rear master cylinder was bad. a rebuild kit fixed it.
 
Have a hard time to bleed the rear caliper, I had a spare reservoir cover
that i install a air fitting on it, put about 5 lbs of air in the system and
was very ez to bleed then??
 
well I really hope I don't have a bad master cylinder, because the manual says I have to remove the rear wheel and swingarm to get it out, does anyone know an easier way to do this?
no matter how many times I pump, with the resivoir cap on or off, it's not doing anything, emptying the resivoir or squirting fluid, nothing.
 
brake bleed

brake bleed

I had the same problem when I replaced my front brake line with a braided one. Couldn't get fluid flowing no how.
Take the hose off the master cylinder and hold your finger over the port and pump the brake taking care to not get the brake fluid over anything valuable. It'll take a few pumps but when you feel pressure replace the line and continue downstream to the brale cylinder.....Mike
 
Mike is quite correct. If you do not feel any pressure after numerous attempts, you may need to rebuild the master cylinder. There are kits available, so no big deal..just money and time.
 
Thanks for all your helps guys, I got it figured out, after compressing the rear shock with a tie down strap, and then laying on the seat, I was able to get the pin out for the brake linkage, and remove the master cylinder.

apparently while I was waiting for my parts to arrive, the whole thing dried up and seized, after working some brake fluid into it, everythings working. now I just need to figure out how to force that c-clip back in.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top