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Rear brake disc removal

  • Thread starter Thread starter bbytes
  • Start date Start date
B

bbytes

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I am thinking I am going to replace the rear brake disc by myself. I want to make sure this is done right, as I have never removed the rear wheel before. Anyone have a good set of instructions on how to do this, and the proper way to reinstall the rear tire? I have the GS550 service manual, so I will look in there, but I want to make sure I don't mess up either the brakes, or the chain. Anything I should look out for while doing this repair?
 
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Hi babes.
Its not too difficult....
put on centre stand...
Undo and remove rear brake caliper...
Undo and slacken chain tensioners (either side ov swing-arm...
Push wheel toward front ov bike (being carefull not to push bike off centre stand!)
Unhook chain...
Pull wheel back and sideways to clear mudguard...
Then the fun really starts with trying to undo the disk bolts... (watch your fingers!!)

Have a lovely cup ov tea, and then do everything backwards to reassenmbe...

If its a shafty (cant remember if it is), then the wheel comes away from the final drive unit to the right...

Sorted.
Good luck.

Seana
Xxx
 
BBytes, throw your bike info in your signature block please.

Yes, you can undo the castle nut with the bike simply on the centerstand like Seana says but to get the axle out you'll also want to undo the top shock mounts and raise or lower the rear wheel enough to clear the exhaust so you don't have to remove it. Pay attention to how the spacers go order and direction so you put everything back in correctly. Otherwise, do what she said although I would add you'll probably need to tilt the wheel to clear the fender.

I would also recommend that if you are taking off the brake disc, to remove the sprocket carrier and look at the rubber "clamp" type deals. They can wear out and won't hold the sprocket carrier very well after so long. Also, check your wheel bearings as this would be the best time to replace all of them.
 
cowboyup3371 said:
BBytes, throw your bike info in your signature block please.
Click to expand...
No problem.

cowboyup3371 said:
Seana says but to get the axle out you'll also want to undo the top shock mounts and raise or lower the rear wheel enough to clear the exhaust so you don't have to remove it.
Click to expand...
I have an exhaust coming in the mail. Maybe I'll just do the brakes with the exhaust.

Am I correct in thinking that I need to replace the brake pads too, even if they still have a little life in them?
 
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How much is a little life? How well do your trust your rear brake to even give you your full 20% stopping power?
 
After I destroyed the rear disc by riding on completely worn down pads, I bought semi-sintered pads which are 30% copper. This makes them harder, and last longer. The pads are still fairly good, but have some grooves in them now (due to a detroyed disc). I will probably just buy new pads anyway, since I wouldn't want to transfer any of those grooves to the new plate, and I'm not sure the EBC Pro-lite disc would like the semi-sintered brakes.

I will be replacing the front brake too, eventually. It's not destroyed though, so I am doing the back first. I hear the first hundred miles, the brakes can be a bit too smooth. Therefore, I am not going to replace both at the same time, since I might need that emergency stop.
 
Well done Bbytes...
Yeah do one wheel at a time...
Oh and yes, tilt the wheel to get it out...
I usually jack the rear end up a bit with a block ov wood or a brick to raise the tail up enough for thw wheel to roll out the right hand side... But then, i dont have a rear mudguard to speak ov... I went mad with the anglegrinder!!!


Xxx
 
Few extra tips from me just doing this last night. First mark or measure where the wheel lines up with the frame marks so when you put it back wheel will be centered and chain at right tension assuming it was correct in the first place. Second, everyone mentions ( even the clymer manual) to tilt the wheel to get it out, this is not possible unless the axle is completely removed, my bike also has stops at end of droupouts that need to be removed to slide wheel out. Third, to get chain off you'll have to roll it off, it won't just pull off. Push wheel forward, grab chain at most forward poitn on top of sprocket and pick up/pull to outside of ring, slowly turn wheel backwards and work chain off working your way down back of sprocket, watch your fingers between chain and teeth. You also will have to remove bar going from caliper back to frame and remove caliper before doing wheel.
 
Hoist up the back end with an engine lift or come-along.
That is a nylon sling that blends into the door frame on the shed just in front of the shocks.

DSC06997.jpg



Eric
 
Is that really needed? I mean with the front end being heavier, shouldn't I be able to do this just on the center stand? I just don't have the equipment to do something like this.
 
center stand will be fine, put a block of wood just under the springs, so it don't tip backwards as your moving things around.

.
 
bbytes said:
Is that really needed? I mean with the front end being heavier, shouldn't I be able to do this just on the center stand? I just don't have the equipment to do something like this.
Click to expand...

I just like to do things the EASY way myself. ;)

Eric
 
Cant you do it by hiring a massive crane and just pick the whole bike up and shake it really really hard til the wheel falls off...

....getting it back in might be a bit tricky though!

Lol!
....... hoist indeed!

Xxxxxx
 
No, it's not needed and I didn't do it with mine but it removes possibility of bike tipping. If it were needed then emergency roadside fixes would be impossible. Key thing to remember when fixing anything, it's much easier to pull something apart then put it back together. Putting the wheel back in is a 2 person job imo. One can do it but you'll need to hold the wheel up, slide axle is while holding spacer in place etc... It's not hard just awkward. Take pictures before you start.

This would be like a 1/2-1hr job for a shop, just a thought-
 
Tola said:
This would be like a 1/2-1hr job for a shop, just a thought-
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Ha yes, then they charge for 3 AND break something as well!!!

Well,.round here they will!!!

I prefer to do it myself, then i know its well and truly done.
Xxx
 
Tola said:
This would be like a 1/2-1hr job for a shop, just a thought-
Click to expand...

Yeah, and around here, the shops charge $70/hr. If they did it in 1/2 hour that might be reasonable. But any longer than that, and I may as well save the money and do it myself.

Plus I was quoted a 1.5 hr job when I called the nearest motorcycle mechanic.
 
7981GS said:
That's cheating! You don't have a rear fender or tag mount to get in the way. ;)

Eric
Click to expand...

I thought I saw a rear fender in the picture with wood blocks, but it was just the cover of the snowmobile behind it.
 
no cheating,,,,,fender is there......hard to see, shadows and all, but it is there
 
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