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Rear brake locked up?

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS650E_81
  • Start date Start date
Nessism said:
It's simple to get the piston where it belongs. Follow these steps carefully...

1) Remove both pistons from the caliper

2) Clean both pistons and look for pits in the chrome (replace if damaged)

3) Order new piston seals and brake line

4) Remove master cylinder and tear it down. Inspect cylinder bore carefully for corrosion damage and replace as necessary

5) Order a new master cylinder kit

6) Reinstall new seals in caliper and master cylinder, and reassembly everything with your new brake line

7) Bleed brakes and ride happy
Click to expand...

Such a good helper! :cool:
 
Steve said:
True, but he doesn't make house calls. :D

.
Click to expand...

Boo! LOL

My father-in-law to be is coming over today to help me work on the brakes. I am going to have him help me clean them and then I am going to order replacement parts.
 
I can't seem to get the allen head bolts to budge with my 10mm. Any suggestions on getting them out?

I have sprayed them with pb blast but no luck.
 
GS650E_81 said:
I can't seem to get the allen head bolts to budge with my 10mm. Any suggestions on getting them out?

I have sprayed them with pb blast but no luck.
Click to expand...

Get a set of allen head sockets. Then you can use a longer handle wrench for more leverage.
 
Loosely refit the calipers back on the forks so theres something to hold them still..then youll get good enought leverage to get them to come loose. I always loosen everything before i take the calipers off the forks. If you dont have the allen socket set that goes on the ratchet, then put the allen wrench in and use the box end of a long wrench to make a extention like a breaker bar. Or if you have a small hydraulic jack you can use the pumping handle as a breaker bar too.
 
Bolts are totally seized. Cannot get them off with brute force.

I will have to grind them off...

I can't seem to find the bolts online at any of the online parts sites. Anyone know if these bolts are replaceable before I tear into them?
 
You are talking about the 2 allen head ones that are the pad carriers...right? Heat the casing up with a propane torch and drip a drop or 2 of old engine oil down in the recess and the heat will suck the oil into the threads. What kind of allen wrenches do you have? Regular bent at a 90 style or the 3/8 drive socket style? If you dont have the socket style, then go to Harbor Freight and get some..they are life and allen head savers. You can get plenty of torque with the socket type and its easy to add a breaker bar to the ratchet or the breaker bar itself. Between some heat, some penetrated oil, and the right tool they will come right out. Some like this is what i mean...AND like i said before..remount them on the forks so you can get some leverage on them.


http://www.gearwrench.com/catalog/bit_sockets/hex/setdetails.jsp?part=80580
 
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No go on heating up the threads.

I am guessing no one has pulled these apart since '81.

I am grinding down the heads, but a big PITA.
 
Drill thats just slightly smaller than the OD of the head and drill them down till you can pry the rim of the head off with a flat tip screwdriver. Then seperate them.
 
Picked up another caliper off a G model from a guy in Vegas. Gotta love Ebay!

Mounted the caliper. Installed the brake line with banjo bolt. Filled the reservoir with fresh brake fluid. Put her in neutral and started spinning the wheel with my hand while applying the rear brake. NOTHING.

I understand I need to replace the brake line and rebuild the MC and etc. but the rear brake worked fine before i replaced the Tires, sprockets and chain. So I am not sure what I am doing wrong.

Do I need to bleed the brakes? Because my last caliper was impossible to get the bleed nut loose, everything seem baked on, and this caliper does not look any better..... So I am not sure what to do. :confused:
 
You really should rebuild that caliper. New seals and o-rings. Take it apart and see what you discover. Don't trust anyone else's work.
 
koolaid_kid said:
You really should rebuild that caliper. New seals and o-rings. Take it apart and see what you discover. Don't trust anyone else's work.
Click to expand...

Yeah. I am going to end up doing that. Just hope I can get the allen head bolts out! Last time was no good!
 
Take the caliper with you over to Sears and get a socket drive allen head of the correct size

Then, use air or hydraulic pressure to force the piston out

Place the caliper, bolt side up on a surface and drip some penetrating oil around the bolts every few hours

Then, put the caliper in a vice (padded) and put a breaker bar with that socket to it
 
So do I need to try and bleed the caliper, or would that be a waste of time? I want to try and get at least one more ride in before winter.
 
GS650E_81 said:
Picked up another caliper off a G model from a guy in Vegas. Gotta love Ebay!

Mounted the caliper. Installed the brake line with banjo bolt. Filled the reservoir with fresh brake fluid. Put her in neutral and started spinning the wheel with my hand while applying the rear brake. NOTHING.

I understand I need to replace the brake line and rebuild the MC and etc. but the rear brake worked fine before i replaced the Tires, sprockets and chain. So I am not sure what I am doing wrong.

Do I need to bleed the brakes? Because my last caliper was impossible to get the bleed nut loose, everything seem baked on, and this caliper does not look any better..... So I am not sure what to do. :confused:
Click to expand...


You bought some unknown, and crappy as it turned out, caliper off ebay and just threw it on with the hope that it might be okay? Geeze, if that's the way you approach maintenance you are better off in a fricken CAR, or at least a new bike.

I know this sounds harsh, but I'm saying this for your own good. We don't want you to get killed because your brakes failed.

BTW, of course the caliper needs to be bleed. How is the air going to get out if you don't?
 
Last edited:
Ed, please, don't beat around the bush. Say what you really mean.
But I agree completely, I was just trying to be a bit more subtle.
Those are your brakes. Those, and your tires, are all that keep you from meeting your maker prematurely when riding. Don't take chances with either one. Your last ride may indeed be, well, your last ride.
 
Yeah you are right I think I am better off with a car... :hand:

I bought this bike November of last year. ALL I do is work on it. I got screwed and paid 1k for a 30 year old bike because I am 28 and no nothing about motorcycles. My buddy at work had a bike and I thought I needed one to.

Since the purchase of the bike I have replaced:

Gas tank
Head boots
O rings
Carb jets
Fuelcock
Fuel line
Tires F and R
Sprockets
Chain
Caliper
Grips

I have wrenched wayyyyyyyyyy more than ride. So pardon me for wanting something to working one time with no issues.

You love and learn. I guess I am not as passionate as some on this board.

I just want to ride with out doing 60 hours of maintenance first!
 
Well, as BassCliff is fond of saying, you need to do 20 years of maintenance on a 30 year old bike. Then you ride it and say: I did it myself. I admit it does take a certain warped mindset to keep these babies on the road, but the knowledge that you did the work yourself should count for something. And I suspect you are a far better mechanic than when you first showed up here late last year.
 
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