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rear brake problems

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jerobi
  • Start date Start date
another option is to run the lockwire through the top loop and secure it to a point nearby.
it wont stop it potentially popping out, but you wont lose it !
 
The way my luck runs, 1000 people will have one in for 10 years and not one missing pin EVER. ME...ten minutes later the damned thing is nowhere to be found..LOL.
 
Flipped some spacers around this morning thinking that might help but that didn't really do it either. It looks like the spacing is perfect until I tighten everything down. The right side chain tension is not keeping tension as well either and I'm not sure if that has something to do with the problem....

on another note the peg that holds the brake lever has loosened up a bit with a little WD40 but its still pretty sticky. How can I remove it to check for rust and grease it up?
IMG_20130130_124345_zps3f250e42.jpg
 
you are not actually telling us whether you are checking for the spacers we ask you to look for and which spacers you are flipping about.
remove it again and lay out all the spacers on the axle in the position you are fitting them on the bike.
we cannot help you with all these vague replies
 
kickin my own ass and goin no where fast huh? the spacers i flipped were #17 and #8. I also switched the chain adjusters to see if that made a difference but no go. Heres a pic of how its set up on the bike now. I checked the #5 spacer as well and it looks like its sitting just how its supposed to in the drum and the drum is flush with wheel so I don't think the cushion is out of place
IMG_20130130_143851_zps5ab9d9e2.jpg
 
for once, i give up.........i have no more ideas...
if you put the wheel in and tighten everything up WITHOUT the caliper fitted (fit the hanger bracket) does the wheel spin freely as it should?
only other (highly improbable) idea i can think of is the caliper hanger/bracket is bent, but i doubt it.........

sorry.......
 
there is actually just enough clearance for the wheel to spin freely with everything connected except for the brake pads and rides just fine. i'd like to have those brakes working tho. thanks for all your time on this. if i ever come up with a solution i'll be sure to post... any ideas about how to get that peg out of the frame?
 
Jerobi said:
there is actually just enough clearance for the wheel to spin freely with everything connected except for the brake pads and rides just fine. i'd like to have those brakes working tho. thanks for all your time on this. if i ever come up with a solution i'll be sure to post... any ideas about how to get that peg out of the frame?
Click to expand...

plenty of wd40 and get the lever on it and keep turning the shaft to work the wd in, keep turning and spraying and it will free up, maybe a final bit of persuasion with a soft mallet to bop it out.
clean shaft and hole with emery cloth and lube generously with grease before fitting

P.S. are you SURE the pads are in the caliper correctly?
 
Last edited:
awesome, thanks for everybodys help! and yeah unfortunately I'm sure about the pads, it would be nice if it were that easy. I just need to find a way to shift that caliper mount over about 16th of an inch
 
slip a washer in there, that should do the trick. i would not be happy personally, knowing that something is not quite right there.
take care..........
 
Jerobi said:
It looks like the spacing is perfect until I tighten everything down. The right side chain tension is not keeping tension as well either and I'm not sure if that has something to do with the problem....
Click to expand...

When you adjust the chain tensioners, once you get them aligned equally you need to push the wheel forward with enough force to not allow them to get out of alignment when you tighten the axle bolt (Don't knock the bike off the centerstand though). The axle shouldn't be allowed to move and the adjusting pins should be tight up against the swingarm block.

Going back to your first post that I was reading, before you took it all apart and replaced the sprockets and chain, did everything mate up properly then, i.e. brake caliper?
So, when you put your new rear sprocket on did you secure the bolts with the nuts to the outside? and if so, are all the nuts tightened down? And how does that assembly fit into the wheel?
Does it fit in all the way?
 
As suggested a good sized wood dowel will do the trick too. Or just a steel rod and hammer it out. Be sure to wire the pushrod to the master cylinder put of the way.
.
Sand the inside of the frame and the lever pivot assembly real well and apply a good smear of grease in the hole and on the part. Wipe the excess off after you get it back in the frame.
 
I was at the storage unit and took pics of the axle on my750..granted it is a 77 and may be different from the 78 but heres the ntwo sides of the axle...What I did not see is that thick washer that was in his one picture of the axle assembly out of the rim.


001-64.jpg

002-61.jpg
 
Hey, was this resolved? I wonder if you just needed to use a c-clamp to open/spread the pistons back up?
 
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