Rear Sets for 79 GS1000E ?

[Anonymous]

Is there any rear set pegs that bolt on? Even from another brand of bike? I was thinking about cutting some brackets from Aluminum plate, and then I also thought that I could exchange the stock left peg for right and right for left. Heat them up and bend them to the right angle. Gear shift and brake levers would have to be sectioned and then rechromed. Give you about 4 inches difference I think. Any ideas?

 

[robinjo]

Raask sells rearsets for your bike, I have an ancient set on my 1000S.
Last time I tried switching the footpeg hangers was on my 79 750 and that didn't work, try it and let us know please.
I just made rearsets for my Katana from alu plate and turned footpegs, turned out nice!

 

[houndawg]

honda superhawk 305 's will bolt up and move pegs back 1 inch and up 1

 

[Sandy]

I made rearsets for my last GS1000 and sure wish I had kept them when I let bike go. What I used was either 1/2" or 5/8" aluminum plate, any smaller with this design it will bend when stood on. I haven't got any pictures so I hope my explanation isn't to confusing. This design incorporates the stock footpegs and mounts. You start with a chunk of aluminum about 3" X 7". Looking at the aluminum plate horizontally draw a line about 3/4" lengthwise from the edge. At the left end of this line layout two holes, these holes will mount the plate to the stock frame mounts for the foot pegs. These holes don't need to be tapped. Draw another line parallel to the first line and about an inch above it. Now drill another set of holes for the stock footpegs about 5? back from the first set of holes. These holes will need to be tapped with the proper thread for the stock footpeg bolts. This plate will be for the right side. Now the tricky part. The plate will bolt to the frame by the first set of holes while the stock footpegs will bolt to the second set of holes. Except you bolt the footpegs to the inside edge of the plate to give you a slightly narrower footpeg stance. The plate will have to be shaped with a bandsaw and files to accomplish this. The brake lever can be simply shortened and the pad rewelded in place. The brake lever was too long anyway.

The left side will resemble the right side with the exception of the gear lever. What I used was a threaded shift lever pivot and lever from a GS1150, don't remember year or model, but probably any assembly will work as long as the pivot is a separate threaded piece and the lever has a ball pivot for the linkage. I also used the piece from an 1150 for the shifter shaft. The linkage from the 1150 was to long for this application so I used one from and early Yamaha FJ1100. It was about an inch shorter. Drill and tap a hole to mount the shift pivot on the aluminum plate where you like and you're done.

This will set the pegs back 5", up 1" and in about 1" on each side. I used this setup for a few years and found it worked really well with either flat bars or super sport bars, super sport bars being my preference. The rear pegs will be too close to the front pegs so you will have to figure something out there if you want rear pegs. With stock exhaust, a good suspension setup and sticky tires the only thing that dragged was the outside edge of the #1 and #4 exhaust down tubes and I really had to be cookin? to do that.

You might be able to fiddle with the measurements a bit to suit yourself if you find these too aggressive. It is also easy and advisable to make a mock up of this setup from a piece of plywood first to see how it works for you because once you cut the brake lever there?s no going back.