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Rear shocks upside down

  • Thread starter Thread starter MAJikMARCer
  • Start date Start date
M

MAJikMARCer

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So when I bought the bike I didnt notice that the shocks were upside down. I was told this isn't a serious problem so I've thus far ignored it.

However the chain guard was missing so I ordered a replacement. That finally showed up today and I discovered that because the shocks are on upside down that I cannot install the chain guard.

So what steps do I need to take to safely and properly turn the shocks over? I'm assuming the bike will need to be supported and the springs compressed, but I'm a noob and I want to this right.
 
Do them one at a time and you shouldn't have any issues. I shouldn't be necessary to lift or support the bike other than have it on its centerstand.

Good luck with it.

Spyug
 
I shouldn't be necessary to lift or support the bike other than have it on its centerstand.

Good luck with it.

Spyug

I was wondering if I should put a small board under the center stand since the rear tire isnt completely floating when on the center stand, or should that be fine, especially if I onlt take one off at a time?
 
No board needed if the shocks are the correct length. Pull off one side, flip it over, then do the other side. The springs come off with the shocks as one unit.
 
I just installed new shocks on my GS1100GK. Ideally, you want to get the rear up as high as feasible. I have a small lip (1/2 and inch or so) from the driveway to my garage floor and postion the bike so, when placed on the centerstand, the rear wheel hangs over. Some will place a 2x4 under the centerstand to gain more lift, but, my method works just as well for me.
Unbolt the top shock bolts first, this will allow the the rear wheel to drop to a point that will allow the bottom shock bolts to loosened and removed without interfering with the exhaust. Then, just reverse the process. It's a bit easier if you have a friend to lift the rear wheel when re-installing the top mounts. :)
 
The springs come off with the shocks as one unit.

Yea I was thinking (not sure why) that the shocks would still need to be compressed even with the weight of the bike off the shocks. Thinking more about it that doesn't make a lot of sense but better to know from veterans like you guys than go into it ignorant and take an expensive trip to the ER.
 
One more thing, I'm not sure what the torque spec is for the shock bolts, but, there isn't any need for "gorilla" torque, just nice and tight will do. The forces on the shock are mostly horizontal, not laterally.
I've seen to many bikes with the shock bolts broken from someone try to tighten them way to much.:)
 
One more thing, I'm not sure what the torque spec is for the shock bolts, but, there isn't any need for "gorilla" torque, just nice and tight will do. The forces on the shock are mostly horizontal, not laterally.
I've seen to many bikes with the shock bolts broken from someone try to tighten them way to much.:)

Yea, given the apparent history of this bike I'm a little worried about the condition of the studs/threads. <fingers crossed>
 
Looks like the lower nuts are partial blocked by the mufflers. Will just loosening the rear hanging bolt be enough to gain the needed clearance? I have issues with my left-side exhaust. No leaks but I'm worried that if I fool with it too much I will end up with a much larger project on my hands.
 
loosen the rear muffler hanger bolt almost all the way out..pull the muffler away from the head and it should have enough clearance.
 
Shocks are made differently to run inverted (upside down) you can't just flip shocks over and expect them to work like they're supposed to. You need to find out what you have. some latter model bikes come with inverted shocks that will fit your bike. They are longer and provide a smoother ride, That may be what you have if both wheels are touching the ground when on the centerstand. Turning them over will introduce air in the valving and cause a loss of damping. Measure them from eye center to eye center. If they are longer than 12" they are from a later model bike and are intended for inverted running. Don't flip them. If they are 13 1/2" to 14" long, I'm looking for a set of those and would be interested in them if you deside to replace them with the right shocks for your bike.
 
Shocks are made differently to run inverted (upside down) you can't just flip shocks over and expect them to work like they're supposed to. You need to find out what you have. some latter model bikes come with inverted shocks that will fit your bike. They are longer and provide a smoother ride, That may be what you have if both wheels are touching the ground when on the centerstand. Turning them over will introduce air in the valving and cause a loss of damping. Measure them from eye center to eye center. If they are longer than 12" they are from a later model bike and are intended for inverted running. Don't flip them. If they are 13 1/2" to 14" long, I'm looking for a set of those and would be interested in them if you deside to replace them with the right shocks for your bike.

Good to know. Looking at different bikes I've seen that they don't seem quite as tall as my bike (I'm 6 ft tall and still unable to sit flat footed). Not looking to replace any time soon (not in the budget just yet) and they are still working. I just may have to wait to put my chain guard on. I'll measure the shocks at lunch.
 
Good to know. Looking at different bikes I've seen that they don't seem quite as tall as my bike (I'm 6 ft tall and still unable to sit flat footed). Not looking to replace any time soon (not in the budget just yet) and they are still working. I just may have to wait to put my chain guard on. I'll measure the shocks at lunch.

There are folks on here with surplus used shocks that would sell them for a reasonable price. Just place a parts wanted add. I would probably pay the same for yours (if they're the right ones) all you'd be out is the shipping.
 
No need to mess with the exhaust..

Get the bike on the center stand (on a board if necessary to get the wheel just clear of the floor)

unbolt the tops of both shocks and pull them off the studs..

lift rear wheel enough to get the lower bolts clear of the mufflers and put a block under the wheel to hold it there.

I do the same thing to access the rear axle bolt.
 
The shocks are 13 1/2 inches long while the bike is on the center stand. Guess I"ll need to consider my options. I'm thinking a set of '82 click-turn adjustable shocks would be cool. But would I be better off get a brand new modern set?

For now I'll probably leave them. (ugh) The wife controls the budget and as she has reminded me many times already, I can work on it this fall/winter when I can't ride it anyway. Damn her logic.

No need to mess with the exhaust..

You'll notice from the pictures below there is very little clearance for the bottom connection.

No need to mess with the exhaust..
But of course...

P1010001.jpg

P1010003.jpg

P1010002.jpg

P1010004.jpg
 
They are obviously aftermarket, they may be much better than what you would replace them with. How well do they work?
Anyone recognize this shock?
 
They are obviously aftermarket, they may be much better than what you would replace them with. How well do they work?
Anyone recognize this shock?

I dont really have enough experince to know if they are working well or not. They seem fine. :confused:

I would be fine with them if they didn't block the chain guard.
You can see in the picture below. The finger is pointing to where the rear part of the guard bolts. My crude drawing shows how the lower end of the shock is in the way. I'm not even entirely sure the other end will have much better clearance.

Chain_Guard_Prob.jpg
 
OMG those are so wrong it isn't funny! Don't ride it like that! The chain looks rusted as well...Geez, every time I look at those pics I see something else wrong. The passenger pegs are on wrong as well...I gotta stop looking..
 
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I see something stamped into the body of the shock.. what does it say?

Kinda looks like an old Fox shock.
 
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