rear tire change

[Anonymous]

I need to change the rear tire on a gs850, 1982. Trying to save money so would like to bring the wheel into the shop. I do not have much maintenance experience and do not want to damage anything or create a dangerous riding situation. If anyone has done this and has helpful suggestions I would appreciate it. Thanks.

 

[Anonymous]

rear tire change

Well, for starters, get your bike up on its centerstand. To take off the rear tire you will need a couple of inches of extra clearance, so either use a 2 inch thick board under the stand or......, like me, I have a carport with a small drop (with down incline) at the front. I carefully posistion the bike so when I haul it back on the center stand the rear tire is "hanging" out over the lip. The lip plus the incline give me about 3 inches of extra clearance. I have found the only way to get the axle out is to take off the left exhaust pipe (surely there must be an easier way) so I can extract the axle. But first I pull the bottom of the shocks, this drops the assembly down a inch or so. Pull cotter pin from the axle nut. At this point you may need to insert a screwdriver into the hole that is in the head of the axle (left side) to provide leverage. Back off axle nut. Tap axle out far enough to get a fairly good grip with your hand on the head. Rock the tire up and down as you pull the axle out. A spacer will fall off the right side as the axle slides through it. Do not allow this spacer to roll off into never never land (I have spent a couple of hours looking for mine, finally found). After removing axle you might have to jog the tire/wheel assembly about 1/4 inch to the right, this gets it off of the rear spline of the shaft. At this point the wheel/tire should be sitting on the ground. Pull it straight back and away from the bike. Assembly is in reverse order of above. Be sure to grease up the spline engagement with new good quality grease. Also ensure the rear brake pads are seperated enough to fit the rear disk into. Hold tire up with toe of foot or a homemade wedge and gently place it back onto the splines. The wedge will help get the axle back through. Don't forget to put the spacer back. Good luck. Shouldn't take more than 30 minutes to get tire/wheel off and another 30 minutes to get it back on. Pump rear brake
before riding off.

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

Don't forget to lock the center stand while you are working on it. to be safe

 

[Anonymous]

The bike has a gadget to give you more clearance so you don't have to remove the pipe.

On the right swing arm, about six inches behind the pivot, there is a bit of pipe welded on. In a similar place on the right pipe/footpeg arm there is a corresponding bit of pipe.

Loosen the bottom of each rear shocker, take the top of the shock off the frame, and lift the back wheel until you can push a screwdriver into those bits of pipe. This will lift the wheel about 2 inches and give enough clearance for the wheel to slide out on the right of the rear wheelarch.

To lock the centre stand there is a similar arrangement near the stand's pivot point. You push the screwdriver in from the left side of the bike when the bike is on the stand.

Kim

 

[argonsagas]

It is not necessary to do anything with the exhaust. Locking up parts with the bits of pipe sounds great, but my bike does not have them.

Here is how I have done it:

Remove shock on both sides at the top.

Remove brake and lift the brake support arm up as high as possible and tie in place with bungee etc.

In some of the original tool kits you may have a piece of cable with eyes on each end. I don't have it, so I used a bit of coat hanger.

To use the cable (or other strong wire) lift the wheel as high as you can and slip the cable eyes over the shock mounts. I removed the entire left shock, but is supposed to work with only the top on off.

It's also a good idea to put the nut and washer back on the mount to keep the cable/wire from slipping off while you are working.

After that, push out the axle and the wheel can be removed by pulling it over on an angle. If you can put something under the centerstand to raise the bike a bit, that will definitely make it esier.

Remember to lock the stand for safety and do not forget to grease the gears AND axle before putting the wheel back on. It will go in easier and come out cleaner next time. Mine was rusted and took a bit of work with a pin punch and a 2 pound hammer to get it out.

This way is much faster than pulling off the exhaust. Even with the punch and hammer it probably took about 15 minutes.

Good luck
Ron Martin 82 GS1100G

 

[focus frenzy]

In some of the original tool kits you may have a piece of cable with eyes on each end. I don't have it, so I used a bit of coat hanger.

To use the cable (or other strong wire) lift the wheel as high as you can and slip the cable eyes over the shock mounts. I removed the entire left shock, but is supposed to work with only the top on off.
Good luck
Ron Martin 82 GS1100G

so that is what that cable is for!!!! I have been wondering what purpose it served ever sence I bought my bike.
you wouldnt also know what the tool that looks like a handle for bending tubing is for??