Rear Wheel Removal procedure 82 GS 850 GL

[EZ OUT]

Okay -
The Clymer manual does not make sense for my year bike. There are no updates in the back for rear wheel removal on an '82 GL.
My question is - Do you have to remove the caliper from its mounts or does it come off when the axel comes out?
Directions say to remove the top shock mount nuts and pull shocks away from frame. I have the swingarm braced with a cement block and some pieces of wood.
I removed the torque link bolt and fastened a cable to the bolt and the caliper and the other end to the top shock mount. To keep the caliper from falling?? I can't see that happening until the axel is removed.
I removed the brake hose holder bolt near the rear axel.
I removed the axel nut.
I don't see how the axel will clear the muffler to get it all the way out unless the swingarm is lowered a few inches.
:?

 

[redliner1973]

The caliper will 'fall down' when you pull out the axle bolt. this is why it says to 'support caliper assy so it does not hang by the brake hose'. Remove the cement/wood blocks from the bike. they are not needed, and prevent the swingarm from lowering to clear the pipes, so the axle will come out. Once that is done, pull wheel assy to the right (as facing rear of bike) to get the wheel assy off the splnes ( I am also assuming you have a shaft drive). Now wiggle the wheel out. You may have to compress the front forks down enough to get the rear end high enough to do this. I use a M/C jack to lift mine the 3 or 4 inches needed. Installation is reverse of removal, just make sure you LUBE THOSE SPLINES!!!! Also, don't forget the spacers, and cotter pins.

 

[NickNoo]

Heres the way I do it :

Put bike on centrestand with a 2 inch chock under the stand (a piece of paving slab or metal is ideal - wood is probably too soft) - you need the extra height to make sure the wheel doesnt snag the rear mudguard when you try to remove it. The centre of balance is well in front of the stand, so the bike will sit happily on the stand and the front wheel as the wheel is removed.

Remove rear brake caliper and support it or just lay it over a rag on the right exhaust.

Take off both rear shock absorbers, AFTER chocking the rear wheel so it doesnt drop too much. You may be able to use a screwdriver to support the wheel using the holes in the frame near the rear right passenger footrest and rear axle, but I prefer to chock the wheel myself.

Now you should be able to carefully lower the wheel to the ground and remove the spindle without snagging the exhaust. Be careful here as the wheel will probably fall away from the shaft hub as the spindle is withdrawn.

Make sure you note down the order which spacers go where, as it is important.

When you've done it once, it should be a 10 minute job in future.

 

[Anonymous]

NickNoo's description sounds spot on. I'm in the middle of replacing the shaft boot on my GS850L, and I followed the Haynes manual. As I recall, it pretty much matches what NickNoo says. The "lock holes" in my center stand still have one of my screwdrivers in it, and the special bar from the tool kit that holds the swingarm up is still in its place on the frame waiting for me to put the swingarm, tire, etc. back on.

I found that the left exhaust pipe was a little in the way of the wheel shaft so I took of the bolt holding the exhaust on the frame and that gave me the extra space I needed.

Hope that helps some.

 

[NickNoo]

A.T. Thats a good point about locking the centrestand - ALWAYS LOCK THE CENTRESTAND WHEN TAKING THE WHEEL OFF !

 

[EZ OUT]

Thanks to all of you for the great advice. As always, you guys make it very easy to take on these tasks - things I normally would not have attempted.
All went well -- if slow. Got the new wheel on. Disc rotor mounted on the new wheel. Tire checks out. All torqued. No problems with spacers and lubed the splines with Honda Moly grease.
Now - I noticed some gear oil leaking from the drive shaft boot, but I don't know if this is just because the bike was sitting overnight at an extreme upward angle - due to the bike falling off the shocks and resting on the fender or if it is a more series problem. I took it for a ride tonight and it does drip some and is fouling some of the underside. I hope this is some residual oil that will stop and not a chronic condition.
Anyone know? Should I not go on the trip tomorrow - 350 mile journey.

 

[redliner1973]

Find out weather it is coming from the final drive (differential), or the secondary drive (at teh boot end). Check your fluids, see which one (if any) is low. Make sure the drain, fill and vent bolts (secondary) are tight. It could just be that angle it was laying could've leaked fluid. Clean it up and ride again to make sure if it is residual or not. If it looks good and no new amount is leaking after you clean it ALL up, go on your trip, stop regularly to check for leak. That's about all you can do for right now.

 

[EZ OUT]

Find out weather it is coming from the final drive (differential), or the secondary drive (at teh boot end). Check your fluids, see which one (if any) is low. Make sure the drain, fill and vent bolts (secondary) are tight. It could just be that angle it was laying could've leaked fluid. Clean it up and ride again to make sure if it is residual or not. If it looks good and no new amount is leaking after you clean it ALL up, go on your trip, stop regularly to check for leak. That's about all you can do for right now.

Hey thanks for the response - I do appreciate it.
I rode it around on a short errand and it still drips a little. I think you may be right about the residual oil. I got a bottle of gear oil to take with me, so I guess I'll give it a go. Checked the secondary -- right amount no noticeable reduction in fluid level. Haven't checked the final but will do that too.

 

[ccs]

Hey guys;

A.T. Thats a good point about locking the centrestand - ALWAYS LOCK THE CENTRESTAND WHEN TAKING THE WHEEL OFF !

My 82 GS850G does not have this feature on the centerstand.

Any advice on how to "lock" the centerstand (I keep my bike in the apts garage and don't wnat someone "accidentally" knocking it off).



Also... my 82 does have the hole through the exhaust and swing arm to insert a screwdriver for support.

Any advice here?

TIA.

Charles...

 

[PaulC]

Heres the way I do it :

Put bike on centrestand with a 2 inch chock under the stand (a piece of paving slab or metal is ideal - wood is probably too soft) - you need the extra height to make sure the wheel doesnt snag the rear mudguard when you try to remove it. The centre of balance is well in front of the stand, so the bike will sit happily on the stand and the front wheel as the wheel is removed.

Remove rear brake caliper and support it or just lay it over a rag on the right exhaust.

Take off both rear shock absorbers, AFTER chocking the rear wheel so it doesnt drop too much. You may be able to use a screwdriver to support the wheel using the holes in the frame near the rear right passenger footrest and rear axle, but I prefer to chock the wheel myself.

Now you should be able to carefully lower the wheel to the ground and remove the spindle without snagging the exhaust. Be careful here as the wheel will probably fall away from the shaft hub as the spindle is withdrawn.

Make sure you note down the order which spacers go where, as it is important.

When you've done it once, it should be a 10 minute job in future.

Ok trying to inspect my splines and came across this thread. Did what was recommended and yet wheel only drops only an inch or two - top of shock mount is just clearing mounting stud. The tire is still 5 inches from the ground. I would expect the wheel to drop 3-5 inches or more.

Can the swingarm be "frozen"?

 

[doctorgonzo]

Ok trying to inspect my splines and came across this thread. Did what was recommended and yet wheel only drops only an inch or two - top of shock mount is just clearing mounting stud. The tire is still 5 inches from the ground. I would expect the wheel to drop 3-5 inches or more.

Can the swingarm be "frozen"?

The swingarm actually shouldn't move at all. I totally remove the shocks myself, then lift the wheel until the hole lines up to insert a screwdriver. This locks the swingarm in place (what I meant about it not moving). Once the axle is out, jiggle the wheel a little and it will slid off the pumpkin and down for removal. If you didn't put something under the centerstand for extra height it will catch the rear fender a bit, but can be wriggled out.

 

[BassCliff]

FWIW:

A PDF from my website:

Rear Wheel Removal




Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[TheCafeKid]

And if you DID put something under the centerstand (or had a conveinient curb to hang the back end over) DO NOT try to turn the wheel while the swingarm is hanging freely and low. There is an odd amount of torque on the Ujoint and it will jam up inside the swinger, and you dont want to damage the joint.

 

[PaulC]

Thanks

Thanks

My bike doesn't have either the centerstand or swingarm lock. Will keep wheel supported and pull the axle. Interesting in that PO put axle in from brake side - opposite BC's pdf. Maybe easier in that you position spacers and push axle from same side?

 

[BassCliff]

Interesting in that PO put axle in from brake side - opposite BC's pdf. Maybe easier in that you position spacers and push axle from same side?

Great observation. :clap:

I wonder if there are any disadvantages to putting the axle bolt on the left side? :-k

It sure seems silly that the "L" models do not have the center stand lock or swingarm lock.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[flyingace]

I use a piece of nylon rope to tie the swing arm (drive shaft side) to the upper frame. This allows me to raise and lower the rear tire for the purpose of removing the axle and removing/replacing the shocks. Seems to work better than blocks under the tire.

 

[PaulC]

I wonder if there are any disadvantages to putting the axle bolt on the left side? :-k

BassCliff -

Are there any disadvantages? Yeah it won't work for my bike! My axle is not a bolt with a hex head. It's a rod with one end threaded. The brake end gets clamped by the brake line support bolt. That's what hold it from moving towards the left.

Went to "tap" out the axle and it would not move. Pulled out the 2lb hammer and split the 1" oak dowel I was using! Was ready to pull out the 16lb sledge when I research here again and found your comment on another thread about removing the brake line support bolt in order to hang the brake from the top shock support. When I looked at my bike further realized that this bolt was clamping the end of the axle. After I removed it, the axle came out nice and easy.

End result is that upon inspection the splines are down to about 1/32" from the original approx 1/8". Time for new ones.

Anyway, thanks for the help.

 

[BassCliff]

Plain, dull, boring, drab

Plain, dull, boring, drab

Thanks for sharing that, Mr. PaulC.

I haven't taken the time to look on my bike and see how reversing the rear axle would affect the mechanical workings of the rear wheel assembly. I tend to do things by the book if that's the way it works. Call me unimaginative. :-s


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff