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Reasons my bike would go to twin mode

No I removed the carb body from the rack they've been rebuilt very recently and were dipped and soaked in an ultrasonic cleaner. The float height was also set.

I just removed 4 from the rack this time knowing it's the only one causing an issue and went through all testing circuits. I'm gonna be getting at it again tonight but using compressed air to hopefully shoot out whatever is blocking the pilot circuit.


OK, just trying to determine where we are. heh
 
OK, just trying to determine where we are. heh

No worries, I can go through what I've done real quick.

Carb rebuild, with floats weighed and the height set.

New dyna ignition, coilpacks.

All new rubbers behind and in front of carbs.

Coil relay mod

4-1 exhaust.

Those are all the things I've done relating to how it fires and flows. Seeing that the ignition system is fine and I'm assuming the stator test turned out fine, I just need to mess with the carbs again.

I know the stator doesnt affect how the bike actually runs but just adding that.

Ill have the regulator soon enough and a back up caltric stator if the bike needs it aswell as a stator cover gasket.
 
No worries, I can go through what I've done real quick.

Carb rebuild, with floats weighed and the height set.

New dyna ignition, coilpacks.

All new rubbers behind and in front of carbs.

Coil relay mod

4-1 exhaust.

Those are all the things I've done relating to how it fires and flows. Seeing that the ignition system is fine and I'm assuming the stator test turned out fine, I just need to mess with the carbs again.

I know the stator doesnt affect how the bike actually runs but just adding that.

Ill have the regulator soon enough and a back up caltric stator if the bike needs it aswell as a stator cover gasket.

True, the stator doesn't affect how the bike runs. So, we can bypass that for the time being. However, I still believe it is out of spec and the problem with the charging system and the cause of R/R's frying.

I don't know what "weighted carb floats" means

I think whoever rebuilt your carbs did a questionable job and they are now a problem, particularly the #4 carb.
 
I get readings of about 90acv at 5k on all legs.

For the ground tests I get reading of about 50acv at 5k. Good or bad?
.

Between where and where are you checking ground to get a reading of 50v AC going to ground?
 
I rebuilt them lol...they operate fine atleast the first 3. I didnt know what weighing the floats meant either, a mechanic I brought them to said you do it when you set float height because if they weigh a different amount from one another they will sit at a different height if adjusted to the same spot something like that.


For ground test it's one probe on a leg and the other probe on the engine
 
Also I think i need to go through my airbox, i think the carbs are getting cleaned well but I'm getting crud from the airbox sucked in causing it to get things clogged. I'm gonna clean the airbix whoke I have the carbs off
 
I was reading up about stator output and hopefully if this is a 32amp stator I'm actually right one the dot, it says I should get 18volts per 1000 rpm and 18x5 is 90. But I still need to know if my stator passed the ground test. If I go above 5krpm that's when my stator will hit 100
 
For ground test it's one probe on a leg and the other probe on the engine

That is called a short circuit. That's no different that taking the phase wire from an AC outlet in your house and shorting it to ground.
 
So the test I did failed?

I don't know what you are doing.

QUOTE:
quote_icon.png
Originally Posted by timebombprod
I get readings of about 90acv at 5k on all legs.

For the ground tests I get reading of about 50acv at 5k. Good or bad?
UNQUOTE

The output test is done with the engine running and measured in volts.

The ground test is done without the engine running and is measured in ohms.
For a heavy wire, 3 phase stator, the resistance should be approximately 0.1 ohm or less, or nearly zero.
.
 
Okay I have to find what a ground test would be. I know I passed the output test, I also checked resistance with the bike off just checking all the stator legs and it was at .6 for all of them.

I thought the ground test would be one probe on a leg and the other probe grounded to the engine and checking acv for that, that's where I got the 50 acv from, if I'm doing it wrong or reading the wrong number let me know.
 
I thought the ground test would be one probe on a leg and the other probe grounded to the engine and checking acv for that, that's where I got the 50 acv from, if I'm doing it wrong or reading the wrong number let me know.

Engine not running and ignition switched OFF.

You've combined some right and some wrong. heh Set meter to ohms, lowest setting that is greater than expected reading. In this case set meter to measure 0.0 to 0.5 ohms range. Place one probe of meter on a leg/lead and the other probe to engine case/ground. Expect a reading in the range of 0.1 to 0.25 ohms.
 
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When you cleaned the four carbs, did you clean out the 56 orifices/ in the 4 spray bars with a wire bristle?
 
No wire bristle, just used carb dip, ultrasonic cleaner, with all the pieces separated, anything that involved rubber or plastic was in pinesol.

Rinsed all parts with warm water and wiped dry and assembled back together.
 
Lowest ohm reading on my multimeter is 200 but I do get a reading of .8ohms across all legs configurations. Gonna call Rick's and see what they say and possibly get it returned.

Seems that its definitely higher than it should be
 
Lowest ohm reading on my multimeter is 200 but I do get a reading of .8ohms across all legs configurations. Gonna call Rick's and see what they say and possibly get it returned.

Seems that its definitely higher than it should be

I agree with you.
 
No wire bristle, just used carb dip, ultrasonic cleaner, with all the pieces separated, anything that involved rubber or plastic was in pinesol.

Rinsed all parts with warm water and wiped dry and assembled back together.

I think you should take the cap and float bowl off the #4 carb, remove the main jet and with a dowel, push the spray bar out the bottom and inspect the 14 holes that are in the sides of the spray bar. I would not be surprised if they are clogged.
 
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