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Reasons my bike would go to twin mode

I'm wondering if you calibrated your manometer prior to the carb sync?
 
Gonna do leakdown test, talked to dynatek and I timed it the way it is supposed to be, and they said it would need to be really off for the issue to be preignition. He said a intake valve clearance and a leakdown test are the two things to check and if not those just run it and see if it's from something in the cylinder, I'll check the timing before I bust run it to ensure but I know i did it right the first time and I had the timing ensured that it was fine by another user.

Maybe tomorrow I will have results from the leakdown test? If I need go do the rings, should i just bore it? The kits about 200. If I dont need to go past taking off the cylinder head to do the job I'll do it forsure. How much would a machine shop charge to bore out the engine?
 
Gonna do leakdown test, talked to dynatek and I timed it the way it is supposed to be, and they said it would need to be really off for the issue to be preignition.

Engine not running, with test light, what static timing mark are you using?
 
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Engine not running, with test light, what static timing mark are you using?

They said you go off of full advance which is what I timed mine off, but also the F mark. Both agreed over the phone the timing was set correctly and would need to be heaps off to do what my bikes doing. If any thing I'd be off a hair not an inch
 
They said you go off of full advance which is what I timed mine off, but also the F mark. Both agreed over the phone the timing was set correctly and would need to be heaps off to do what my bikes doing. If any thing I'd be off a hair not an inch

To time the engine static for the full advance setting, you must reach behind the breaker plate and with your finger, rotate and hold the mechanical advance unit in the full advance position while you set the timing statically. If you don't do that, you will have full advance coming in at the static idle setting which should not have any advance. What happens is the engine starts out with full advance and then then mechanical advance kicks in another full advance curve on top of it. THAT is the fault you have. You have double advance.

I know you don't understand that and I have tried to explain it in various ways for a month to no avail.

There is nothing wrong with the bike. The problem is the operator.

I have given you the solution 7 times thus far and you have yet to try it. I know you have not tried it because if you did, your bike would be running normally.

If you will do this, exactly as I have written it, your problems will be gone. TRY IT. All it will cost you is 5 minutes at most of your time.

If you will not try it, there really is nothing more I can say to help you.

Static Timing, engine NOT running.

1. Set the mixture screws to 1 3/4 turns out. That will be correct for the timing you are going to set.

2. With a 19mm wrench rotate the engine clockwise until the timing mark is aligned with the case mark on the engine. You will see through the timing window F 1. | The vertical line on the right | is the timing mark that is to be aligned with the mark on the case.

3. Loosen the three screws located at 12, 4 and 8 o'clock on the breaker plate and rotate the breaker plate clockwise as far as it will turn. (leave the screws loose at this point)

4. Connect your test light, one wire to the white wire on the left ignition set(1-4) and the other wire of the light to ground.

5. Turn on the ignition. The light should come on.

6. Very slowly, rotate the breaker plate counter clockwise until the light flickers. When it flickers to going out, stop. Then tighten the three breaker plate screws down.

Do NOT do anything that is not in the above list. ABSOLUTELY do NOT touch the advance unit.

Remove the test light, start the bike, and adjust the idle knob to get the engine to a 1200 rpm idle.
 
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