• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Rebuild or buy used?

wymple

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
Apparently my rear master cylinder on my 81 850G is being a problem. I'm wondering if the rebuild kits are worth the trouble. I can buy a used replacement easy enough.
 
I'd look inside the bore to see if there is any pitting. If no, I'd order up a factory Suzuki (NOT K&L) master cylinder plunger kit and replace the brake line. If the master cylinder is pitted, I'd buy a used one with a good bore, it may take more than one purchase to find a good one, and then order the new kit for the inside. Last thing I'd do is purchase some used brake master and just blindly install it.
 
I wan't afraid of a used one because, quite frankly, I've never, ever had a bad rear master on anything. I like the rebuild idea because I like new parts. I will take your advise, tho, for sure. Over at BikeBandit the thing I want listed under OEM would be the cup set?
 
Last edited:
Part# 69600-45820 Piston and cup set.

Bike Bandit is expensive. Part Outlaw is cheaper although slower.
 
Just overhauled my front master cylinder. Found the bore was pitted so I had a brass sleeve put in it. Works great and a permanent fix.
 
I'd look inside the bore to see if there is any pitting. If no, I'd order up a factory Suzuki (NOT K&L) master cylinder plunger kit and...
Uh oh. I have one of those kits. You mean it's 2016 and K&L brake kit parts aren't acceptable, don't fit or work? What's the deal? Wouldn't this be known safety issue to them by now? Would appreciate hearing your experience and opinion.
 
On two different occasions I've experienced K&L brake caliper piston seals that fit so poorly (too tight) the piston wouldn't move like it should. Also, I had a master cylinder kit where the metal plunger would scrape inside the bore creating drag and create a squeak noise. I was able to save it by chucking up the plunger in my drill press and truing up the plunger and remove some runout using a file but why should anyone have to deal with that? The OEM Suzuki parts are the same price or sometimes cheaper than K&L brake parts anyway.
 
There is a hole in the bore behind the brass nipple the fluid line from the reivoir hooks to. Take off the nipple and be sure that bleeder hole isnt clogged too.
 
Seems like K&L is using a higher quality supplier for their brake master cylinder kits. I just rebuilt my rear master cylinder with the K&L parts kit, and it works smoothly. Parts looked oem, and different than how I remember the old kit parts. Qualified recommendation here...
 
Last edited:
Back
Top