Rebuilding 550 brakes, new shocks too - fun, fun!

[Fishman]

I'm working on my 550's brake system and am trying to return it to as "like new" a condition as possible, within reason. Currently the back brake is dragging, indicating some sort of problem. I have already sourced the new pads and stainless brake lines and have them in my possession. I'm also installing a hydraulic front brake switch to replace the stock unit at the front manifold. My 550 has a single caliper in the front. Should I go ahead and rebuild both calipers and both master cylinders? If so, what parts do I need? For example, I see a piston set for the front master, but the rear master also has some other rubber bits. Do the calipers need new rubber items too? From reading previous posts, it appears that OEM is the way to go. Bikebandit is pricey but fairly fast, Flatout is cheaper but just too slow. Any other recommendations?

If I need to disassemble the brakes and check out the condition of stuff prior to ordering, I can do that if that's the recommendation I get.

I also need to replace the rear shocks. I'm a big guy (300 lbs) and I'm setting this bike up so my son (65lbs) can ride shotgun. Suggestions? Sources?

How hard is changing out the fork springs to progressive? I don't think I've seen a tutorial for that. Where is a good source as well?

It would have been cheaper to buy a new bike I think, but what's the fun in that?

 

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. Fishman,

I would recommend that, for the calipers and m/c's, you simply buy and install some rebuild kits. Then READ THIS for suspension information and vendor sources. There is a fork seal replacement guide on my website. It should give you some idea what's necessary to replace the fork springs.

Is your Nighthawk the one with the shaft drive? I kinda like those, along with the mid-80's 700 Nighthawk shafty. I'd love to add one to my stable.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[p_s]

If I need to disassemble the brakes and check out the condition of stuff prior to ordering, I can do that if that's the recommendation I get.

It's very common for the brake pistons to be pitted if the brake fluid wasn't flushed. The OEM caliper rebuild kits come with pistons & all the rubber bits. You could strip the calipers and check the pistons first and possibly save a few bucks if you're lucky. I would definitely strip both master cylinders and calipers in your position.

How hard is changing out the fork springs to progressive? I don't think I've seen a tutorial for that.

Not hard. Jack up the front-end so the shocks aren't loaded, remove cap, change spring. If you want to change the seals or rebuild the forks it's a different story.

It would have been cheaper to buy a new bike I think, but what's the fun in that?

Exactly!

 

[Nessism]

Partsnmore.com has a good price on shocks. For Progressive springs check maw.com - they are cheapest I could find.

For the brakes, yes, take apart all the parts. Suzuki sells the rubber parts seperate if the pistons are not pitted. If your calipers and master are not leaking now, you could reuse the old rubber parts if an inspection shows they are in good shape.

Good luck.

 

[waterman]

How hard is changing out the fork springs to progressive? I don't think I've seen a tutorial for that. Where is a good source as well?

It would have been cheaper to buy a new bike I think, but what's the fun in that?

Progressive spring change is real easy, just like p_s states. Only thing missing in his description is that you should measure the fluid level in the fork legs and adjust as necessary. I would take the time and drain the old fork oil and replace with fresh. One tip to setting oil level, use a spray pump from a bottle of spray cleaner and mark on the suction straw with a piece of tape the desired oil level from the bottom tip. Fill fork to a little over desired level and simply pump out excess while using the straw as measuring stick.

One other thing to consider on the progressive springs is that you will most likely need to add a spacer above the spring to set your preload. I believe most people use a piece of plastic pipe and cut it to length. You may want to try this with your stock spring, adding another inch of compression on top of the spring will give your forks a little more beef. It may be enough for your needs.

 

[Larry D]

I also need to replace the rear shocks. I'm a big guy (300 lbs) and I'm setting this bike up so my son (65lbs) can ride shotgun. Suggestions? Sources?

How hard is changing out the fork springs to progressive? I don't think I've seen a tutorial for that. Where is a good source as well?
quote]

Check out the below thread. And give me a week or so, and I'll post up some tutorials........

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=137732

 

[twr1776]

Fishman, As everyone mentioned changing fork springs fairly easy. Check Cilffs website and Matchless has a good tutorial on full disassembly or you could just drop them in and flush out and replace the fluid if you seals are in good condition. I would definately recommend replacing both the front springs and rear shocks. They were marginal when new and in 28 years I am sure they have not improved any.

For your front brakes they do not show part #1 which is the full rebuild kit but do show the seals #2 & #3 still available. For the rear part # 1 should be both pistons and both seal sets (# 3 & #4). You could also get the #5 rubber seal and have all new seals for your calipers. Although you might not need them $ 50 in parts plus your time is pretty cheap IMO to rebuild your calipers. The two outer grooves in the caliper housings are a PITA to clean out but once you see how gunked up they are you will be glad you did them.

http://www.flatoutmotorcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp

http://www.flatoutmotorcycles.com/f...y=Motorcycles&make=Suzuki&year=1981&fveh=2116

 

[Fishman]

Wow! That was quick. Thanks to all who have replied so far. I've went ahead and ordered the OEM caliper and master cylinder kits from flatout (thanks twr1776) which came to just over $100 with shipping.

I'm going to check out the shocks and progressive springs mentioned. I've seen some pretty pricey shocks. Given my weight and the fact that I'm going to have a small passenger, is there much advantage to spending more? Not looking for massive performance in the twisties here, just good performance.

Oh, Basscliff, my Nighthawk is the original with the shaft drive. All that followed were wannabe's! The 700s is a nice bike too, one of my friends has one. I've ridden it and it's a bit more comfortable than my 650, but I'm not sure there's much extra performance. Of the two, its a close call, but I think I do prefer the 700s. I'm not giving up my 650 any time soon though. I'm the second owner and the original owner was in the military and bought it new. It was stored most of it's life and looks it. His new wife said it must go and I bought it in non-running condition with a stuck caliper for $500. I couldn't get the money out fast enough. A new caliper from ebay, some seafoam and new gas, and some new tires and it's been good to go. Had to replace the valve cover gasket on it though and posted about that a couple weeks back.

Darn, I'm hijacking my own thread. Carry on.

 

[Fishman]

I saw a few negative comments on the web about mawonline. Is there another source that might only be a few bucks more expensive that is more consistent?

 

[Fishman]

To the top.

 

[BassCliff]

I saw a few negative comments on the web about mawonline. Is there another source that might only be a few bucks more expensive that is more consistent?

That's where I bought my Progressive springs from. No problems then. What parts are you looking for? There should be plenty of vendor choices in the list on my website. Z1, BikeBandit, Flatout, and Dennis Kirk are most often mentioned around here. But there are many more decent online vendors.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Fishman]

I'm looking for progressive front fork springs. I don't think I need to replace the seals because they aren't leaking. I went ahead and ordered the $75 shocks from partsnmore, but they didn't have fork springs. I couldn't find them on z1 aftermarket, and the bikebandit/flatout are stock springs, no? I'm a little gunshy about the springs since I haven't physically been in there and looked at them. Everything else I've ordered for the bike I have been able to look at it.

I remember my dad telling me once that I needed to take the gas cap off the old truck I had and drive a new truck under it. I think I'm almost there with this bike, as the gas cap is one of the few original parts on it!

 

[Larry D]

I got my progressive springs from maw...no problems.

It's not that there's anything wrong or broken about the original springs. They're old, perhaps worn some and designed in the late seventies. The new progressives are a newer, better designed spring technology that improves the operation of the suspension, resulting in better ride and handling.

 

[Fishman]

All right, I'll give Maw a try.

Thanks guys, and I'll post back up when I finish the brakes et al.