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Rebuilding brakes - Qiuck question

  • Thread starter Thread starter baco99
  • Start date Start date
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baco99

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I have an 82 GS1100E (chain drive). I'm rebuilding the brakes: changing seals, new pads, general clean-up. Can someone explain the rasoning for the complex set of brake hoses that go to the front assembly? Is there a simpler, cleaner way of running brake lines from the master cylinder? I've thought of trying to get a longer banjo bolt and just running 2 lines direct from the master cylinder to each of the calipers. Does this seem possible?

Thanks,
Brian
 
I think this has been done by guys that want to simplify the arrangement or cut the costs of Stainless Steel lines. I think I have seen GSXR race bikes with this setup, so it's probably OK.

To be sure however, you better rely only on the word of those who have actually performed and used the modification sucessfully.

Tomcat
 
baco99 said:
I have an 82 GS1100E (chain drive). I'm rebuilding the brakes: changing seals, new pads, general clean-up. Can someone explain the rasoning for the complex set of brake hoses that go to the front assembly? Is there a simpler, cleaner way of running brake lines from the master cylinder? I've thought of trying to get a longer banjo bolt and just running 2 lines direct from the master cylinder to each of the calipers. Does this seem possible?

Thanks,
Brian
Click to expand...

Yes, you can run two lines direct. I have it on my 82 1100E and it is a significant improvement. Much easier to bleed with far less agony than the stock setup. My kit came from Galfer and the price was quite reasonable, too. It was only slightly higher than what kits for current sportbikes were going for at the time, which was WAY cheaper than any other options I could find. Oh, I also blanked off the anti-dive units at the same time, which is another major improvement over the old stock set up.

Mark
 
baco99 said:
what's the anti-dive unit?
Click to expand...
Follow your brake line from the master cylinder to the caliper. The hose continues to a little doo-dad on the fork leg. That is the anti-dive unit. When pressure is applied to the brakes, it is also applied to the anti-dive unit, which changes the compression damping so the bike does not dive (as much) under braking. Many have found that their bikes work better by bypassing this unit. To bypass it, you will need a bolt and gasket to plug the anti-dive hole and move the original bolt from the anti-dive unit to the caliper. (When you remove the second brake line from the caliper, you will need a shorter bolt.) Neither one of my GS bikes has this feature, so I can not tell you from experience.


.
 
any reasonably priced front pads out there? the rears are easy to find, but the fronts seem to be a bit more rare...
 
I've got a pair of 'hell' brake lines on the GSF1200 which was the same set up as the GS1000e. One line from the master cylinder to a splitter the two lines down to the front callipers.

It you've got anti dive you can get replacement lines made up for them. Being braided they do not allow the pressure to push the pipe out which is what happens on the older rubber brake lines.

Its a question of personal taste......

Pads are 10 a penny here in the UK....

Suzuki mad
 
baco99 said:
got it. thanks!
Click to expand...

If you decide to keep the anti-dive unit (not sure why you would want to, but each his own), make sure you bleed/flush them thoroughly. Mine had the nastiest looking brake fluid I have ever seen come out when I flushed them before blanking them completely.

Also note that you need to regularly bleed your brakes. On mine, I do it every spring and try for once more in the season. I ALWAYS seem to have a couple of bubbles come out. My new bikes do not do this, but the 1100E does. Perhaps it's time for a caliper rebuild this winter...:)

Mark
 
I think I'm going to by-pass the anti-dive unit. Going to get 2 blank bolts and use the crush washers that are there. I also think I can use the extended banjo bolt from one of the calipers up at the master cylinder to run my new SS lines direct from the master. So, all I need is a set of SS lines with the proper fittings and I'm good to go.

Will try and post pictures of the install if that's helpful.
 
do you think it i got three 40" long SS lines, i'd be OK for all three calipers? i measured the lines quickly and they range from 38" to 42" with some slack here and there.

any harm in getting a line that's 4-6" too long?
 
OK, my lines will be in on the 19th. Just rebuilt both front calipers and the rear caliper. Cleaned everything up and put in new EBC organic brake pads. The front left and rear pads were down to the metal! (maybe that's why the stopping power seemed weak!)

i have a feeling with pads and new lines the bike will be great on the road.
 
OK, i installed the lines, replaced all the seals, and put the whole kit back together. the rear brakes are working great. nice and solid feel with no excess lockup. the fronts, however, still feel soft. i bled the system and can't see any more air coming out. i replaced the front lines with a double-banjo fitting from the master cylinder and lines that go directly to the calipers. i'm bypassing the anti-dive thingie.

could there be air somewhere and i don't know it? or could the master cylinder plunger be leaking? i don't see anything dripping, but maybe it's not building pressure? the brakes work, but you have to squeez the lever 90% before they start to engage.

any help would be great.

thanks,
brian
 
Maybe not your problem, but.... I replaced my front master cylinder and thereafter had good braking, but had to pull the lever nearly right in. Triple checked everything and discovered that I had replaced a 5/8 bore with a 1/2 inch bore M/C cylinder. Apparently at least a 5/8 bore size is needed for a twin disk bike. This morning I fitted a 5/8 inch M/C and my brakes are back to normal, just needs a bit of a harder pull than the smaller bore one
 
baco99 said:
OK, i installed the lines, replaced all the seals, and put the whole kit back together. the rear brakes are working great. nice and solid feel with no excess lockup. the fronts, however, still feel soft. i bled the system and can't see any more air coming out. i replaced the front lines with a double-banjo fitting from the master cylinder and lines that go directly to the calipers. i'm bypassing the anti-dive thingie.

could there be air somewhere and i don't know it? or could the master cylinder plunger be leaking? i don't see anything dripping, but maybe it's not building pressure? the brakes work, but you have to squeez the lever 90% before they start to engage.

any help would be great.

thanks,
brian
Click to expand...

Keep bleeding them, they can be cantankerous things to do. With the new braided steel lines you aren't finished till the lever action is a lot firmer than before.
 
Take off the brake leve and the M/C cap. Then push in the piston with a phillips screwdriver or the old piston. This pushes the piston into the master cylinder farther than the lever does and it get the last of the little bubbles out of the M/C.
 
cool. i think i got it flushed out now. still doesn't bike immediately, but there's plenty of pressure once the handle is down about 20%. can't wait to ride it!
 
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