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Rebuilt carbs #1 not firing.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
tuna can is close to the right size for getting into those drain screws, for next time
 
Well I been playing. Carbs on, no airbox, still running on 3. Swapped slides 1 and 4. I know it won't run well without the airbox, but I can see if a carb is flooding. So now it is sitting aux tank installed and a half gallon of fuel for head pressure. I will look in a bit to see where the fuel is coming out. I did notice fuel coming out of the main system hole, (bottom right), on #2 a running cylinder, but then I had been spraying cleaner and starting fluid. It looks like I will not be able to escape performing the full monty this time.
 
pvasc said:
I can't get the screen shot to post. Those hoses are ok. Look at the airbox fiche just above the carb one part #11.
Click to expand...

We're talking about different things here. The hose #11 and #12 on the airbox fiche are drain hoses for the airbox and they do not/should not connect to your carbs, they go to ground between the rear of the engine and swing-arm.
1_1.png


The 2 carb vent hoses route over the airbox, i think on just about all GS models, under the seat and are just open to air.
 
Last edited:
Rich82GS750TZ said:
We're talking about different things here. The hose #11 and #12 on the airbox fiche are drain hoses for the airbox and they do not/should not connect to your carbs, they go to ground between the rear of the engine and swing-arm.
1_1.png


The 2 carb vent hoses route over the airbox, i think on just about all GS models, under the seat and are just open to air.
Click to expand...

Exactly the hose I am talking about. I know they don't go to the carbs. I have read about how critical it is to have a well sealed airbox. This hose attaches to the upper chamber...I think. My question is would that cause problems if it was in the air box but not in the place where it is supposed to be. Or am I wrong and it mounts to the bottom of the airbox? However that hole is too big. Or is it insignificant?
 
So, I did spray the intake boot with starting fluid, the red straw did not fit the can nozzle. Just went out to check for leaks / overflow, #4 was a little wet. Fired it up and again with the fluid of start this time as precise as possible I aimed at the connection to the cylinder head. You would have thought the o-ring went bad just sitting. Idle went up, exhaust temp went up. Double checked with carb cleaner, same, not as good, but same results. Sprayed starting fluid down carb, nothing, in pilot jet hole, and idle went up.
It will be a week or so before I can post results, replacing all o-rings and screws.

Thank-you all for your input.
 
First, do your bike a favor and throw the starting fluid AWAY.

Not sure why you feel the need to drain the carbs. If it's for storage, just add some fuel conditioner to the tank, go for a short ride to make sure it's gotten through all the carb circuits then park the bike.

If you are going to remove the carbs for work, just remove them. You can leave them mostly upright without losing any fuel until they are put back on the bike. If you need to remove the bowls, it is easy enough to hold them over a pan for draining.

.
 
Steve said:
First, do your bike a favor and throw the starting fluid AWAY.

Not sure why you feel the need to drain the carbs. If it's for storage, just add some fuel conditioner to the tank, go for a short ride to make sure it's gotten through all the carb circuits then park the bike.

If you are going to remove the carbs for work, just remove them. You can leave them mostly upright without losing any fuel until they are put back on the bike. If you need to remove the bowls, it is easy enough to hold them over a pan for draining.


.
Click to expand...

It is an old winter storage habit from the days before Stabil, and when Stabil would dissolved plastic floats. I did put stabil in the tank, but didn't run it through, (bike wasn't running well enough) the gas that came out of the carbs was Mountain Dew colored.

Toss the starting fluid. I agree. But sometimes, and this comes and goes, it won't start and I hate grinding on the starter. Right this minute, it starts right off, this is even with the airbox off, and 3 cylinders that run.

Is Stabil 360 a good conditioner for storage? Anything to keep from draining the carbs.
 
I have ordered new intake boot o rings and the stainless bolts from cycle o-rings. #4 was popping, sprayed carb cleaner and idle improved. One screw was loose, as was the case on #1. So when the bike died on me in the middle of passing 2 semi's it had to have been a massive vacuum leak, not the stator quitting and battery dying. I did ride it up and down the road and it would not take throttle, it bogged down. So I had totally misdiagnosed this, and worse improperly installed the new intakes and o rings 10 years ago. I guess I was fooled into thinking it was the stator because I had a CX500 Turbo that had the same symptoms when the stator died, but then that was fuel injected.

When I pulled 1 and 4 intake boots, on the port there was a smudge running from (I guess) the o ring to the port, I am guessing that would be a sure sign of a leak. Been many years since auto mechanics class in high school, and when F-16's and F-111's leak, you know it.
 
pvasc said:
Is Stabil 360 a good conditioner for storage? Anything to keep from draining the carbs.
Click to expand...
I have never tried the 360 or any of the other 'special' formulas, I have only used the standard red stuff.

When it comes time to put the bikes away for the winter, I will add double or triple the recommended amount of Sta-Bil to a partial tank. That would be double or triple the amount for a FULL tank, so it's actually quite a bit stronger at first. I then ride 1/2 mile to the gas station, fill the tank and go for a 5-20 mile ride. The length of the ride depends on the weather. When I get home, I change the oil and filter, run the engine just a bit to circulate the fresh oil, then park the bike and cover it with an old bed sheet.

When it's time to wake up, turn the petcock to PRIme for a minute, set the "choke", turn the key ON and stare at the starter button rather sternly. That's all it takes to get it going.

.
 
Steve said:
I have never tried the 360 or any of the other 'special' formulas, I have only used the standard red stuff.

When it comes time to put the bikes away for the winter, I will add double or triple the recommended amount of Sta-Bil to a partial tank. That would be double or triple the amount for a FULL tank, so it's actually quite a bit stronger at first. I then ride 1/2 mile to the gas station, fill the tank and go for a 5-20 mile ride. The length of the ride depends on the weather. When I get home, I change the oil and filter, run the engine just a bit to circulate the fresh oil, then park the bike and cover it with an old bed sheet.

When it's time to wake up, turn the petcock to PRIme for a minute, set the "choke", turn the key ON and stare at the starter button rather sternly. That's all it takes to get it going.

.
Click to expand...
I will do that. Thank-you. Also for the Harley, that is fuel injected, but should work. Current procedure, and what I was told from the motorcycle shop, is no matter what our E15 gas is only going to last a month, so ride and refill.. Now I can ride a tank off, but not in the 115 degree summer, that is when the bikes will sit the most.
 
Success! All cylinders now firing and she is running good on fresh gas, not to bad on the old stuff either. Next steps is to get the tank burned out of old gas and fresh put in...with StaBil for storage...when the time comes.

Thanks for all your help.
 
I didn't see mentioned, many times flooding carbs is due to the o-rings on the float needle seat. That gives gas a direct bypass of the needle....
 
I got a carb float needle to stop leaking on a 1000E by opening the offending float bowl drain plug, and letting it refill, and opening up the float bowl drain again, a few times. Those have a large drain plug.

It may not be a permanent fix, but it has worked so far. I always assumed the crap keeping the needle from seating came in through the petcock, which supplies all of the carbs. It was always the same carb, #2, so I thought perhaps a drain/flush on the bowl was worth a try, and it has seemed to work. It may have been a case of floating flotsam flushed away.
 
bobgroger said:
I didn't see mentioned, many times flooding carbs is due to the o-rings on the float needle seat. That gives gas a direct bypass of the needle....
Click to expand...

I put the aux tank on and let it set. 2 carbs were flooding, went in and replaced float needle jet seats, all is well as far as leaking.
 
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