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Recommendations, boring, ballancing

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Ran like crap at first so I put 150 mains in. That made a huge difference and there's throttle response now. That might be too much but id rather find out its rich than lean. I ran it for all of two minutes just to set the screws a bit for a better idle.
Thing sounds like a sewing machine though, I'm going to have to adjust the valves to quiet it down.

What should I set the valves to ? I thought I did pretty good setting them the first time. The right side sounds ok... or as expected. The left side is louder.

How long and what RPM for cam break-in?

What about heat cycling and re-torquing the head ?

How should I set the APE cam chain tensioner?

I can't remember this stuff. I'm sure Ray told me a while ago :P


117.5 main jets feel way too small, There was no throttle response at all.
150's seem to work ok, It will respond to throttle but I can't really tell for sure yet because I don't want to rev it.

Engine seems well balanced at low rpm, no vibration at all. Even smoother than stock was.
Starts at first crank ( if my battery will do it) There is definitely more load on the starter to turn it over.
 
Wow. That thing sounded sweet. Very...Hot Rod like. It's kinda strange to have that hot of a motor in a laid back half liter cruiser. The ultimate sleeper bike maybe?
 
.03-.08mm and most of us set the exhaust to .08 to .12mm.the exhaust have a habit of receding into the head if the engine is run hard and lean conditions seem to make it worse.With the .08-.12mm settings,I expect to get around 8000 miles before having to change shims again.
 
I know what happened. I used 3-8 thou. That's supposed to be 1 to 3 thou. My feeler gauges are hard to read. And at 4am I must have just been too tired.
 
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My PC is playing up with Youtube :(

I shall have to look and listen later, but glad she's running!
 
Try another browser. Like chrome or firefox.

I had it out today for breaking in the cam's. Looked for leaks everywhere, tweaked the low speed screws a bit. So far its looking promising.

Haven't taken the valve cover off yet but it does get a bit quieter when its warms up.

I noticed the timing chain tensioner was backing out a little bit. So I turned it in until the noise stopped and then out 1/4 turn. There was only a slight bit of pressure stopping the bolt from turning in anymore.


I did notice some vibration this time. Sitting there at idle the whole bike sort of floats up and down a bit but smooths out above 2000. At idle its pretty cool to see :D

Drove it around the driveway a bit and it feels smooth and wanting to go... Hard to tell when I can't rev it yet though.


Definitely need a new battery. It keeps a charge but is difficult to charge and barely turns the engine over. Kind of seems like an overbored Hardly the way it struggles to turn over and then catches :P
 
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Mekanix said:
I know what happened. I used 3-8 thou. That's supposed to be 1 to 3 thou. My feeler gauges are hard to read. And at 4am I must have just been too tired.
Click to expand...
The usual spec for aftermarket cams is 5-6 thou. I usually run between 4 and 5.
 
If you use the stock GS500 tensioner.Back it out until it locks.Then just turn it enough to let it snap out.It's set.If it doesn't snap out,the tensioner spring is to weak.I don't know how the GS400.425.450 tensioner is made.
 
Mekanix said:
Where do you check them?
Click to expand...
Between the valve and rocker adjuster screw. The manual shows what position the cams should be in for which valves to set. You go by the notches on the end of the cams and whether they are facing away or towards each other.
I like to adjust my manual tensioner with the valve cover off, that way I can pull on the chain in between the sprockets to see how tight or loose it is.
 
Stephen, the valve clearances on THOSE cams is supposed to be .005, (five thousandths of an inch). Ray.
 
Got to see the vid's at work today... oh yeah! :D I like it :D

I wonder how long 'til you wanna put clip ons and rear sets on the L...
 
Found out why I had a rocker ticking. When I set them the first time, the cams were still painted. The paint came off after a while so I was able to set them more accurately.
Just got it licensed again so I'll be working on it more now.
 
Had the bike out for a run today to see what it would do. Carb settings for the moment really suck :P

It ran different than it used to. The rough vibrating at 5k is completely gone.

It has a small vibration at 2500 and then between 3-4 then 6500-7 but cruising around 5k is so smooth that I can see clearly in my mirrors and this bike has no dampening for the engine or handlebars.

At the right idle on the center stand you can feel the ground shaking a bit :P

It does pull through the RPM's but takes too much throttle to get it up there as if its delayed as the slides are going up slowly. Time to start tuning.
 
Excellent, sounds promising :D

Definitely sounds like it's time to maybe trim the slide springs and maybe enlarge that vacuum port ;)
 
How do your plugs look? I wouldnt want you to lean it out and burn a piston.
 
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