Recommendations, boring, ballancing

[gearhead13]

I would recommend getting a dyna rev limiter for that thing, you dont want to miss a shift and bury the tach, especially with that much cam and head work.
A drl-300 is only about $100
http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDe...PM+Limiter+inductive+Ignitions&item=DYDRL-300
I have one on my bike and it works great, nice piece of mind that you wont overrev and ruin all that hard work.

 

[Guest]

I would recommend getting a dyna rev limiter for that thing, you don't want to miss a shift and bury the tach, especially with that much cam and head work.
A drl-300 is only about $100
http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDe...PM+Limiter+inductive+Ignitions&item=DYDRL-300
I have one on my bike and it works great, nice piece of mind that you wont over-rev and ruin all that hard work.

I was looking for something like that but all need is a drl-200. And hopefully i can find it at a lower price than the 300.

105 from z1 + 30 shipping
97 on Ebay + free shipping
or the drl-200 for 64 and unknown shipping ( probably 25 )

How does it clamp ? And how will that effect the ignitor ? Its like dead shorting the ignitor output which usually kill's them right?


I suppose I could wire it up to a relay so that it simply disconnects the coil and reroutes the power to a load or maybe a set of light bulbs.


Looking into this now as well as searching for a good exhaust and a set of FCR 37's

Wow, that porting job looks nice! Is that Rapid Rays work, or local? I'm guesstimating 55 or 60 rwhp once the tune up is sorted.You must be getting excited to hear it run.And a lot of what you've done will work on the 750 plain bearing motors too.Keep your stick on the ice,eh!

750 plain or roller will all be possible as its only top end work with a little base grinding The only thing is that you would have to open up the combustion chamber the same way I did or maybe a different design so that the compression isn't so high.

Its really just what the 1100's get if you want to go bigger. Re-sleeving, pistons, porting, cam's etc.
G4's are only one step, I could go bigger than that and up to an 82mm bore.

An 1100 with a 78mm bore would be a 1261. And at 80mm bore It would be a 1327cc. I could go up to 82mm max and make the engine a 597 which would be a 1394cc engine 1100 equivalent! So there are lots of parts and lots of information already.

There should have been a gs600 twin !!
---------------------------------------------


It's all Ray's head work, porting, valves, back cutting, springs, rockers, cam's etc..
All except for opening up the combustion chamber to 78mm and go from 15cc's to 22cc's, That was my idea.

Ray even asked me a few times, "78mm Really ?" yeah really!


I can say Its hopefully in the mail today and on the way here

 

[Guest]

I'm looking at this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/14083413984...em=&sspagename=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr

It's only 15 for shipping and that isn't bad. Its 18 less than the DRL-300 on ebay

But what will it do to the ignitor if its just attached the way they say to?
As in direct clamping.

http://www.mpsracing.com/instructions/Dynatek/DRL200.pdf

 

[gearhead13]

I'm looking at this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/14083413984...em=&sspagename=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr

It's only 15 for shipping and that isn't bad. Its 18 less than the DRL-300 on ebay

But what will it do to the ignitor if its just attached the way they say to?
As in direct clamping.

http://www.mpsracing.com/instructions/Dynatek/DRL200.pdf

AFAIK, Dyna doesnt make the 200 anymore, replaced by the 300. All it does is ground the firing signals when the set rpm is reached. Mine is set up with two wires to the coils and one to ground. I have a Dyna S but it shouldnt be any different than a stock setup.
A 78mm bore on an 1100 is a 1260.

 

[Guest]

AFAIK, Dyna doesn't make the 200 anymore, replaced by the 300. All it does is ground the firing signals when the set rpm is reached. Mine is set up with two wires to the coils and one to ground. I have a Dyna S but it shouldn't be any different than a stock setup.

Ok yours is set up the way the instructions say to. .

Ah I thought you might be running a dyna ignition as well.

Oh well I'll give it a try with the stock ignitor and if it fries I'll upgrade to the dyna ds3-3c.


I couldn't see a need for all that the 300 does so I found a 200 that should work just fine.

Its ordered now: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/140834139845?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648

 

[gearhead13]

Ok yours is set up the way the instructions say to. .

Ah I thought you might be running a dyna ignition as well.

Oh well I'll give it a try with the stock ignitor and if it fries I'll upgrade to the dyna ds3-3c.


I couldn't see a need for all that the 300 does so I found a 200 that should work just fine.

Its ordered now: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/140834139845?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648

The 300 doesnt do anything more than the 200, the 400 is the dual stage limiter. The one you ordered looks to be a knock off of the Dyna one.

 

[Guest]

The 300 has the option for a second kill signal for things like clutchless shifting or emergency kill switch and it has a setting for higher than 12000 by dipswitches. All things I don't need.

The 200 doesn't have that for options and seems to be quite simple which is all I need really.

Just from the stuff I just read. I can't say I've ever used one.

It looks like with a little work I could make it a two stage quite easily with another pot and a switch.

And I hope its a good knock off. Seems like they were competition for Dyna in the late 80's and early 90's.

 

[Nessism]

Where's the photos of this engine going back together? Can't wait for the video of it starting for the first time too.:twistedevil:

 

[Guest]

I promise I will try to be diligent and document all that goes on with the assembly process.

I'll set up a youtube acct for the video's too.

 

[Guest]

Got everything back from Ray.

Looks good, Daam those new valve springs are strong. The head even has a ring to it.


The new cam's have reduced the valve clearance. by 0.050 on the ex and 0.010 in the intake

At 109, 109 I have 0.020 on the in and ex.

Going to machine the valve relief's in 0.080 so I have some room to be safe.


The reason I'm facing this problem is because of the pistons being made for an 1100 have the valve spacings spread out front to back compared to mine so the valve relief's are deep enough, just not in the right place.

I'll see what happens after the milling.

Tune in next week for another episode
I hope its not that long In the meantime I'll upload some pics of the new stuff.

 

[Guest]

...In the meantime I'll upload some pics of the new stuff.

Just as well

I get lost in the technical stuff but the pic's are always cool

 

[Guest]

Didn't even make it home before tearing the box apart

 

[Guest]

The cam's were painted. This is after a few revolutions *even with plenty of assembly lube*
I wiped it off just to take the pic, No way I would I ever rotate these brand new cam's without lube :!:
looks dry but blame my camera and poor lighting.

I hope the starter can handle the new cam's and springs.

 

[ben2go]

That is a sweet engine build.I'd like to do a big bore and 4v head on my GS500E when I do FI.I'm still researching what larger pistons and cylinders I can use in my engine case.may have to open up the case a little.FYI,I think the 06+ crankshaft is an upgrade.If I ever do build a big bore engine for my bike is getting the full balance and blueprint job.I have a local MC shop that will do any work I want done,if I got the $$$.I could see me spending $1000 on a big bore engine.

 

[Guest]

It doesn't take long to add up!

And then there are all the little details that pop up.

There's so many things to compensate for !

Whats up with the crank? I didn't know there was an update!


1000, ha thats a start I've lost count, I just want to wrap it up at this point.

think 2-350 for pistons.
same for cam's
then head work
gaskets
tweaking
tooling
valves
machining

Its a long process with allot of for-thought needed



The stock 500 jug can go up to 77mm with 2.5mm left to make it a 527, But that's max. Next is to get a 1266 or 13... sleeves and have your block bored to fit them. Then you can go to 82mm and be at 600cc's.

 

[Guest]

Man even though I have no idea about any of this stuff... it makes me drool

That thing oughta be a real beast once it's together!

Maybe pre-empt the starter issue and give it a rebuild with fresh brushes now and clean up the commutator?

 

[ben2go]

It doesn't take long to add up!

And then there are all the little details that pop up.

There's so many things to compensate for !

Whats up with the crank? I didn't know there was an update!


1000, ha thats a start I've lost count, I just want to wrap it up at this point.

think 2-350 for pistons.
same for cam's
then head work
gaskets
tweaking
tooling
valves
machining

Its a long process with allot of for-thought needed



The stock 500 jug can go up to 77mm with 2.5mm left to make it a 527, But that's max. Next is to get a 1266 or 13... sleeves and have your block bored to fit them. Then you can go to 82mm and be at 600cc's.

Good info.What 1266 or 13?That confused me.Thanks.

Dgyver on GSTwins did a 78mm bore on one of his race engines.He sold the bike and don't know if it held together.It had a couple runs on it.The cylinders were paper thin.I saw that engine.He was running flat slide carbs on it I think.

 

[Guest]

Good info.What 1266 or 13?That confused me.Thanks.

Dgyver on GSTwins did a 78mm bore on one of his race engines.He sold the bike and don't know if it held together.It had a couple runs on it.The cylinders were paper thin.I saw that engine.He was running flat slide carbs on it I think.

1266 or 1327cc engine's have larger sleeves installed because the original sleeves would be too thin.

Those sleeves can also be used in our 4-500 blocks if we bore them out the same way the guys with 1100's do.


I saw that post a while back, never herd anymore of it though. FCR 37's are what Ray recommended for my build. I'm looking but for now I'm sticking with the CV's.

 

[Guest]

Man even though I have no idea about any of this stuff... it makes me drool

That thing oughta be a real beast once it's together!

Maybe pre-empt the starter issue and give it a rebuild with fresh brushes now and clean up the commutator?

I'm looking for a good source for brushes. Got any ideas?

 

[tkent02]

I'm looking for a good source for brushes. Got any ideas?

An automotive electrical supply house should have something in the right size, or at least close enough to work.