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Recommendations, boring, ballancing

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
Ok but I think I might have enough valve travel for the larger cam's.

After we spoke I did some measuring.

The Effective valve lift with stock "slightly worn intake cam" is 0.274".

The cam is 0.180" on its own and the Rocker factor is 1.522.


I reassembled the the spare head with one valve and retainers without the springs and pushed it all the way down to see the max travel when it hits the valve seal.

That number is 0.378" when lightly seated against the seal.


So with that I think a 355 or 370 cam would work without having to install new valve guides.

Am I right or is there something else I'm missing?



Ray the valve retainer specs are:

ID: 0.287
Step 1 OD: 0.50
Step 2 OD: 0.740
OD: 0.929


Stock springs:
Inner
ID: 0.513
OD: 0.691
height: 1.273

Outer
ID: 0.752
OD: 0.988
height: 1.44
 
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Made some progress tonight.
Finished the base shim.

Its 0.071" and I'm hoping that the coper coat will give another 0.002

Also got the block back and started cleaning up the powdercoat over spray:mad:


I reassembled the engine to check the cams and they are at 104/107 with full advance on both. Still need to slot the sprockets a little more.

Intake valve clearance is 0.031 at 10 degrees btdc
exhaust is 0.070 at 10 degrees atdc

Going to slot the sprockets more and set to 106/110 as per Ray.

Then check clearances again and determine how much more valve relief is necessary with the 355 or 370 cam's.

I'm just working the numbers so that when i get the cams to 106/110 I'll have the math down easy.

After that I plan on disassembling the head and using it for marking the pistons for valve center.

Hopefully there is enough material in the piston to allow the 0.100 + needed clearance.
 
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This seems to be a weekend update thing now :P


I reassembled the engine and made some modifications to the automatic timing tenssioner so that I could use it again.

Now I have the option of using it or removing two chain links and installing a shim between the tensioner and block.

I can't decide what' a better option. I was working on the manual tenssioner until I noticed a hairline crack in it. so I'm probably going to make one from scratch or go APE.


I checked my stock cam's to see what the wear was and its 0.007 difference between the highest and lowest.

I've also maped out the cam profiles in an excell sheet. 0-720 crank degrees stoping every 10 degrees. Its pretty cool to see and it show's how they are asymetrical and how the exhaust is almost the opposite of the intake profile.
 
Progress? Well I finished the base gasket/shim.
7284006832_89ce8b6ce8_z.jpg
7297527540_65ed2fa293.jpg


Powder coated block
7297527980_e877b57c4c.jpg
7297528334_0600954e15.jpg


Ray has been taking care of the cams and valve-train parts.

Sent him the head to port and anything else he can do.

In the meantime I've found a scraped bike with a good engine that I can use in the meantime. Just have to pick it up 150km away :(
 
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I need to find some copper washers for the head nuts.

The shim raises the head by 0.051 and that means I loose almost 3 threads on the head nut.

Stock are 2mm thick (0.080)

I need something 10mmx20mmx0.8mm

Any ideas ?
 
Just use a thin steel washer - a copper one in that thickness would tear as you tightened the nut anyway.
If you are really paranoid it's possible to spot face the head a smidgen in the nut seating areas - won't make a significant difference to the strength of the head.
 
update

update

Got some washers :)

Here is whats new.

Ray is going to put some larger valves in, cut down from a set of 1100 valves.

This is what is being done:
8 new valves
16 new springs
4 new rockers
2 ground cam's
porting


Should be interesting :)
 
Got some washers :)

Here is whats new.

Ray is going to put some larger valves in, cut down from a set of 1100 valves.

This is what is being done:
8 new valves
16 new springs
4 new rockers
2 ground cam's
porting

Should be interesting :)

Why not just get new custom-made valves? BTDT.
Now much is it going to cost to have these old/used valves made to fit anyway?

Eric
 
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I'm not sure yet. I would assume that cutting a set of 1100 valves would be cheaper than manufacturing new ?

In other news: I'm going with K&N RC1822 pod's and making new plates to mount all the electronics and one for a new larger tool kit :)


I've been thinking of putting the RR somewhere that it can get some airflow or maybe put a small computer fan on it.

I still need a good fuse panel Something with at least 5 mini blade fuses.
 
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Why not just get new custom-made valves? BTDT.
Now much is it going to cost to have these old valves made to fit anyway?

Eric

Why does it matter Eric? What does this have to do with you? Are you just trying to start more crap with me? Custom valves are 40-45 each. Cutting these are a lot less. Try minding your own business, I know how hard that is for you. How did that Harley you worked on turn out by the way? Ray.
 
Why does it matter Eric? What does this have to do with you? Are you just trying to start more crap with me? Custom valves are 40-45 each. Cutting these are a lot less. Try minding your own business, I know how hard that is for you. How did that Harley you worked on turn out by the way? Ray.


why do you think eric is starting something?, i was wondering the same thing , since he has done such a serious build, money didnt seem to matter it seemed
there are tons of valves that can be cut for it with new seats ect... im just wonderin as well , (nothing to do with you ray)- on the wondering part, i dont want you to get mad at me
 
I don't know what Erics problen is Platinum. He is always running his mouth about me. He was banned from this site once & suspended again once for 10 days after he logged in again under another name. I am trying to save the engine owner a little money & show people that a good quality motor that lives and makes power can be built without spending a lot of money. Eric & a few others here that like to give me crap dont know how to build engines & I guess they have nothing better to do than bring up my name. Feel free to call me if you have questions. My # is on this site in several places. Ray.
 
Couple quick questions;Did you actually measure the lift 72 times to make the spread sheet?Please tell me you"re going to do the same for the new cam and post both,as it would be real informative to see the difference.Also ,I'm wondering about the 0.100" piston to valve clearance,is that because it's an air cooled motor?The only motor I've built is a car motor,and if I recall correctly it's clearance was 0.40".Last.are the valves going to be undercut for more flow at part lift?Thank's- Pete
 
I set the intake cam at center and recorded crank angle. From there I measured every 0.010 of valve lift change until I reached lobe center again.

Then I did the same thing on the exhaust side. and made an excel chart with both graphs together.
When I did that I believe I had the cam's back to stock.
104/101.

I'm thinking there is a better way to do it though, I just haven't thought it through yet. Maybe measure lift at each crank angle from 0-720 would be better ?

When I get everything back I'm going to reassemble and set the cams to 106/107 and go from there.
I'll check for clearance, lift, duration etc... and get the new numbers.

0.100 is in the instructions for the JE pistons. I can't recall at the moment what else determined that, Its a little early :P
 
Excellent, nice idea! I ended up with a single 10mm LED on mine as an indicator and while it works well, an actual voltage reading would have been nice too...
 
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