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Rectifier/Regulator replacement list

  • Thread starter Thread starter Matchless
  • Start date Start date
Normk said:
As for the bike wrecker pricing at 1/2 the new price...that's the industry standard. Auto wreckers, bike wreckers, etc. all use this pricing.
Click to expand...

Not all of them. Commercial wreckers, yes but the pick n pull type places charge far less. Most bike wreckers are pick n pull type places, you go find and pull what you need, the prices should be lower. Some of them are priced much lower, some are not. Some are rip offs, some are good people.

Rusty old junk shouldn't be half the new price, ever.
 
Question/concern.

Page 1. Honda CB250RS, Shindengen SH232-12

Says "regulator" only.

I have one IN MY HAND that says "regulator/rectifier" on it 12V... 6 wire. This one came off a CM400T, however... but it has the same serial number "SH232-12 9.8 12v"

What gives?
 
DannyMotor said:
Question/concern.

Page 1. Honda CB250RS, Shindengen SH232-12

Says "regulator" only.

I have one IN MY HAND that says "regulator/rectifier" on it 12V... 6 wire. This one came off a CM400T, however... but it has the same serial number "SH232-12 9.8 12v"

What gives?
Click to expand...

The SH232 could come from a lot of sources, but it's only another 18amp, could have also been found on the GS400, Honda CB250/400N Superdream, CM450 or certain CX500's. And if yours states RR, it probably is.
 
Thanks!
I have updated the list with SH232 and SH541 info you provided.
 
Ok I bought an83 gs750es and it didn't come with a r/r. What you recomend with the Honda r/r's?
 
elevatorman71 said:
What about one off of a gl1100 Honda goldwing? I have one.
Click to expand...

It will work, equal to or slightly better than the oem amperage, larger heat sink area for cooling, should be an eight wire, but will require modification as the mounting holes don't line up on those, might be a sh538
 
Will the wires go color to color? Mounting isn't a problem just need to make sure the wiring is easy and color for color. Maybe a schematic laying around here or there?
 
You'll have the 3 stator wires, white or yellow, 2 grounds(same color), 2 hot(same color) and a seperate color wire for the sense wire, which you can use or leave off, if you want to use it, I hook mine to the lead under the seat going to the tail light, brown oem wire I believe. Post a pic of it when you can, I just wired an 8 wire to the GR650. The mounting holes are spread farther apart on the RR, if you have the material to work with on the RR, you might be able to elongate the holes on the RR, or make new mounting points on the bike.
 
senses voltage drop or increase to help stabalize the amount of charge needed, was originally intended for bikes with an off headlight switch, it would determine the bike didn't need as much voltage.
 
The one I installed works like a dream.

My lights never dim when I hit the brakes or the RPM's drop to idle, and they never get that annoying "insta-bright" when you get on the gas from a stop.

Very happy with this. My battery also stays at a constant 12.7V after riding. (It's an old battery, but cranks just fine!)

Tip: Change EVERY SINGLE connection between the STATOR / RR / FUSE / SOLENOID / HARNESS and BATTERY. Also, hard-wiring a piggy-back wire is a good idea...

Eyelet from RR mount bolt, to and eyelet on the stator, to an eyelet on the battery... even 1 more eyelet that goes to one of the air-box mounts wouldn't hurt.
 
DannyMotor said:
The one I installed works like a dream.

My lights never dim when I hit the brakes or the RPM's drop to idle, and they never get that annoying "insta-bright" when you get on the gas from a stop.

Very happy with this. My battery also stays at a constant 12.7V after riding. (It's an old battery, but cranks just fine!)

Tip: Change EVERY SINGLE connection between the STATOR / RR / FUSE / SOLENOID / HARNESS and BATTERY. Also, hard-wiring a piggy-back wire is a good idea...

Eyelet from RR mount bolt, to and eyelet on the stator, to an eyelet on the battery... even 1 more eyelet that goes to one of the air-box mounts wouldn't hurt.
Click to expand...

Agreed, you can't have too many grounds.
 
DannyMotor said:
The one I installed works like a dream.

My lights never dim when I hit the brakes or the RPM's drop to idle, and they never get that annoying "insta-bright" when you get on the gas from a stop.

Very happy with this. My battery also stays at a constant 12.7V after riding. (It's an old battery, but cranks just fine!)

Tip: Change EVERY SINGLE connection between the STATOR / RR / FUSE / SOLENOID / HARNESS and BATTERY. Also, hard-wiring a piggy-back wire is a good idea...

Eyelet from RR mount bolt, to and eyelet on the stator, to an eyelet on the battery... even 1 more eyelet that goes to one of the air-box mounts wouldn't hurt.
Click to expand...

...........................

Read about GS Charging Health
 
old_skool said:
You'll have the 3 stator wires, white or yellow, 2 grounds(same color), 2 hot(same color) and a seperate color wire for the sense wire, which you can use or leave off, if you want to use it, I hook mine to the lead under the seat going to the tail light, brown oem wire I believe. Post a pic of it when you can, I just wired an 8 wire to the GR650. The mounting holes are spread farther apart on the RR, if you have the material to work with on the RR, you might be able to elongate the holes on the RR, or make new mounting points on the bike.
Click to expand...
The 2 hot wires are red, the 2 ground wires are green, the sense wire is black, and the other 3 go to the stator.
I installed one on my GS, I had to dremel out one of the mounting holes a bit to get it to fit. Not much, perhaps a 1/8" or so. Your mounting bolt/screw lengths will change, and IIRC it will take 2 different lengths.
 
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