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Rectifier replacement innovations

  • Thread starter Thread starter Normk
  • Start date Start date
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Normk

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The GS alternators have three-phase stator output which is typical of older style automotive alternators. This would allow the use of a separate rectifier such as one of the older style Delco Remy 12SI units should one have a malfunctioning rectifier section of the VRR: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Delco-Remy-1...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b43b2b6c

While this may not be the ideal solution compared to replacement by a new, higher capacity MOSFET unit, someone may find the option to be useful. The rectifier can be combined with the regulator action from the original style VRR.
 
Thanks, Matchless.

I've been looking at those and wondering if they would have the capacity. Please keep me informed as to your deliberations.

I do note that many diodes which are rated at 10 amps., for example the common coaxial ones, are not heat sinked so it would be difficult to imagine that they would survive in an under hood service. Have a rectfier from an ND 42 amp alternator on the bench at present which has one open diode but will see if a top hat or stud mount can be fitted.

Someone will likely chime in that this is not very useful strategy for replacing a GS VRR as there are so many off the shelf units but one always learns something through these processes.

Best,
 
Someone will likely chime in that this is not very useful strategy for replacing a GS VRR as there are so many off the shelf units but one always learns something through these processes.

Best,

Like the Honda ShinDenGen RRs that bolt right in with no modification and last for eons. Once has to look at the practical side of anything else and it just makes sense. You can't even tell it's been modified unless you look really close at it.

Sorry, couldn't resist.:rolleyes:
 
Like the Honda ShinDenGen RRs that bolt right in with no modification and last for eons.:rolleyes:
"eons" ??? Griffin ( a few posts down) might have an exception! but I haven't heard back from him as to his actual old unit.
 
I handled over 300 of them and never found a bad one. They outlived the bikes they came on.
 
I handled over 300 of them and never found a bad one. They outlived the bikes they came on.
I was counting on you to say that! and they are dirt cheap on ebay; why pay $100 when you get a preowned 30 year old unit that is very likely to be perfect?
 
It's really quite simple. You get the problem fixed for 30 or 40 dollars and move on. I don't see why people obsess over how powerful their RR is, or anything else. It powers the bike and keeps the battery topped off. End of story. The Honda variety happens not to short out and cook the stator in 20 minutes. They also have a sense wire which when properly connected to a stable voltage source will regulate far better than just looking at the output from the RR itself. And it has 65 mm mounting holes which lines up perfectly on our GS mounts.

But if someone wants to hook up o-scopes, talk about series this or that, pound copper pipe into heatsinks, have 10 ground wires running back to the RR, and put relays all over the bike they can go right ahead. I'll be out riding around on my GS.

I tried to engage the debate a few years ago on this but was ordered out of the room.
 
It's really quite simple. You get the problem fixed for 30 or 40 dollars and move on.

I tried to engage the debate a few years ago on this but was ordered out of the room.
Let's face it- some folks like to push into the frontier. Me, I hate reinventing the wheel- I figured Shindengen had done their homework, and thanks to your info, I was ready when my original R/R behaved badly, so a big thank you. First time out today , steady 14.2 volts from 2k on up and R/R was barely warm after 75 minutes.
 
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