Reg/Rec Wrecked?

[mcycle-nut]

Okay, so I tested the electrical system as per "The Stator Papers" removed the regulator and bench tested it and it passed. Now, with a new battery, (13.4V), new connections, and a ground wire installed from neg. terminal to RR mounting screw, I'm getting 13.7V at idle, 17.3V@2500rpm, and 17.6V@5000rpm. One would think that's a little excessive, so why did the RR pass the bench test?

 

[Nessism]

Because the bench test sucks and doesn't work.

Get a SH775. There are about 50 different threads about these R/R's and why they are the best value available. And be sure to rewire your charging system, cutting out the stator loop through the hand control. That is well documented as well.

 

[posplayr]

Because the bench test sucks and doesn't work.

I hope you don't take offence by I wholeheartedly agree.
Frank left the that R/R test portion in the Stator pages against my recommendation. He did this for reasons of posterity to the original R/Rs.

OP is getting educated in the posterity of GS electrical charging issues.

 

[Burque73]

OP is getting educated in the posterity of GS electrical charging issues.

As am I. Mine passe bench test too but overcharging issue killed the battery.


Mcycle-nut, that would explain why your battery exploded a while back.

 

[Nessism]

A used SH775 can be had for $39 shipped off ebay. Use regular spade terminals to hook it up and fill the cavity in the R/R with RTV to make the assembly water tight. There is no real excuse for not doing it.

 

[posplayr]

As am I. Mine passe bench test too but overcharging issue killed the battery.


Mcycle-nut, that would explain why your battery exploded a while back.

Recognising problems with the structure of the original Stator pages, I wrote the Quick Test. I considered elaborating it to incorporate relevant information from the originals stator pages, but realised that would be in direct conflict with the original Stator pages. So I formulated the Quick test as a "diagnostic triage" to focus the tests in a specific area, rather than fosing people that are usually ill qualified to run too many tests some of which are of dubious value.

It is all a matter of finding the fastest path (on average) to the correct diagnosis with the minimum effort (or time). Clearly the original Stator pages were not written this way, the newer version is what Frank deemed most appropriate; I would have taken the opportunity to make the Quick tests the first phase of the Stator tests making 4 phases (QT-A-B-C). If he did the R/R tests would have been unnecessary. In fact they only apply to old SCR type Shunt R/Rs.

 

[mcycle-nut]

I robbed the one off my parts bike. It's a Shindengen SH532-12. Apparently it's 35 amps according to a chart I found on this site. It's got three yellow wires, a green, a red, and a black. The green was hooked directly to the negative on the battery, the red was spliced into the red on the harness, and the black was spliced into the orange. I THINK it worked, it's been a LONG time since I bought the bike, and I only took it for a test ride and parked it due to massive oil leaks. Does this sound reasonable?

 

[posplayr]

I robbed the one off my parts bike. It's a Shindengen SH532-12. Apparently it's 35 amps according to a chart I found on this site. It's got three yellow wires, a green, a red, and a black. The green was hooked directly to the negative on the battery, the red was spliced into the red on the harness, and the black was spliced into the orange. I THINK it worked, it's been a LONG time since I bought the bike, and I only took it for a test ride and parked it due to massive oil leaks. Does this sound reasonable?

Sounds like a 6 wire honda like Duanage sells. What you describe is OK, but you should make a SPG. SPG collects currents from Harnes B/W, battery and Frame ground and runs a short (less than 1 ft) 14 AWG wire to (R/R) - (green in your case).

The charging is always going to be sensitive to the sense voltage so you need to clean the ignition switch to improve the battery charging. Any drop across the switch will translate to a and elevated voltage at the battery.

 

[mcycle-nut]

So, just to be clear. I make a SPG which includes harness B/W, Neg battery, frame, and green R/R wire. The black wire from the R/R was connected to the orange line running from ignition switch to fuse box. Is this important, or by not hooking it up am I bypassing the ignition switch? Also, what have you found is the easiest way to clean an ignition switch? Can I just squirt it with WD40 or something? It's a '83 GS1100ESD.

 

[posplayr]

So, just to be clear. I make a SPG which includes harness B/W, Neg battery, frame, and green R/R wire. The black wire from the R/R was connected to the orange line running from ignition switch to fuse box. Is this important, or by not hooking it up am I bypassing the ignition switch? Also, what have you found is the easiest way to clean an ignition switch? Can I just squirt it with WD40 or something? It's a '83 GS1100ESD.

to be clear look at the diagram below.

You would be better off to pour Coke on you contacts than WD-40.

If it was me, I would open the bottom, clean it with Naval Jelly, and apply new dielectric grease.

If you want to do even better, read the link.



http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...-Charging-System-Health&p=1138531#post1138531

If all else fails hook the sense wire (black) to the battery(+)

 

[mcycle-nut]

Thanks for your help! Hopefully I won't be charging at 18V now! :lol:

 

[posplayr]

Thanks for your help! Hopefully I won't be charging at 18V now! :lol:

The issue is that the best place for the sense wire is direct to the battery, but that can create an extra draw when you're sitting with bike off (it might drain the battery in a month's time).

Just start with that till you can see how well it is doing and then perhaps move it to the brake switch(O/G) wire. If you have a coil relay mod, use that output.