Regulator/Rectifier or Stator?

[JerbGas]

So, I'm having trouble with my charging system.

Bike is currently only in condition safe to ride around the neighborhood at low speeds. On a fully charged battery, it starts and drives around with full electric just fine. Horn, Lights, all good. Doesn't stall out at stop signs.

But when i bring the bike back to the house, I have to carefully flutter the clutch to roll it through the grass past our trucks to the back of the house where i have my workbench set up (covered location). In doing this, I stall out 3-5 times. After that the bike looses power and battery dead.

BEFORE WE ADDRESS THE REAL QUESTION ID LIKE TO RULE ONE THING OUT:
Currently I'm using the solenoid bypass to start it. I'm waiting on a new solenoid and am going to check into the handlebar switch as nothing at all happens when I hit the start button. Does using this bypass method with a screwdriver simply pull a crazy amount of amps from the battery, hence killing it in 4 stalls whereas normally that wouldn't happen? My logic here relates to my experience building E-cigarette coils. The thicker and longer the coil, the lower the resistance. I was taught to think of the wire as a hose. The bigger, the more current flows though in amps. So, with a screwdriver carrying much much MUCH more thickness and length than the solenoid, I assume I'm putting some SERIOUS stress on the battery.

If that's not the issue: can someone direct me to instructions (simple! i seem to get more confused with electrical stuff than anything else because i have a hard time visualizing the process. All those wires i just cant compartmentalize easily in the brain. Piston and valves carbs however make perfect sense to me) on using a voltmeter to test the RR and the Stator? I will test the RR first because I cheaped out and bought a $20 dollar one (new) off ebay that is for a GS1000 of the same year. I didnt notice i got the wrong one until I received it but figured I'd see if it worked anyway. Some parts are interchangeable between models so I figured heck why not at least try it.

I know, I know, I should have just bought the $95 dollar one from Ricks. Shut up. I guess with the boatload of parts I need for this bike I was looking to cut a corner on something that wasnt performance or safety related. Sigh...go ahead. Bust those chops. I deserve it.

 

[Brendan W]

Shorting the starter solenoid terminals with a screwdriver does not put extra strain on the battery. The solenoid has a short bar inside it that does exactly the same thing when the coil energises and pulls it in.
Get to posplays sig and start measuring. A $20 meter will make the whole process a lot easier.
If you want to carry the hose analogy a bit further when you short the solenoid terminals it's like bypassing an electrically operated, normally closed*, shut off valve with a piece of hose.
*Gets a bit tricky because valves flow when open, switches flow current when closed

 

[JerbGas]

Shorting the starter solenoid terminals with a screwdriver does not put extra strain on the battery. The solenoid has a short bar inside it that does exactly the same thing when the coil energises and pulls it in.
Get to posplays sig and start measuring. A $20 meter will make the whole process a lot easier.
If you want to carry the hose analogy a bit further when you short the solenoid terminals it's like bypassing an electrically operated, normally closed*, shut off valve with a piece of hose.
*Gets a bit tricky because valves flow when open, switches flow current when closed

But theoretically the introduction of a large metal screwdriver into the circuit would lower the resistance of the overall circuit wouldn't it? Wouldn't this also be the reason why you couldn't just use any old piece of metal shaped into a tube to make the wiring? I believe you but it still confuses me.

Honestly the only reason I harp on it is because having to start it with the bypass actually doesn't bother me at all i the slightest. I have no left side cover so until I get that I feel no reason to put the right side one on lol. I plan on upgrading aesthetics on the bike come spring once I've taken care of what's left to be done mechanically to get it highway safe:
-Tires
-Rear Caliper rebuild
-Front Master Cylinder Replacement
-Cam Tensioner Adjustment
-Mirrors (I have no idea why the PO didnt have them)
-Front Pads
-Chain replacement (not sure if necessary just yet but i have no idea how old it is or how it was treated so im just gonna assume itt'l need to be done before I ever think of riding it more than half an hour and over 50mph)

 

[JerbGas]

Shorting the starter solenoid terminals with a screwdriver does not put extra strain on the battery. The solenoid has a short bar inside it that does exactly the same thing when the coil energises and pulls it in.
Get to posplays sig and start measuring. A $20 meter will make the whole process a lot easier.
If you want to carry the hose analogy a bit further when you short the solenoid terminals it's like bypassing an electrically operated, normally closed*, shut off valve with a piece of hose.
*Gets a bit tricky because valves flow when open, switches flow current when closed

WAIT! I'm an idiot! Thats the whole friggin purpose on the RR! To regulate the charge going in and out. Doy!

 

[Nessism]

Please read through the Newbie Mistakes thread linked in my signature. It could save you a lot of time and effort.

Agree on finding Pos's charging system instructions and going through it. I'd rewire the charging system straight away first though. On the 550 the R/R grounds though the battery box, which is mounted to the frame with rubber grommets and little steel collars through the middle. All the current is expected to pass through those little collars. I can almost gurantee you that the R/R isn't grounding properly.

Good luck.

 

[posplayr]

Don't pay $90 for a Ricks R/r. Keep what you have now but follow tha instructions in the links of the 2nd line in my dig nature.

Tkent has slot of smaller bikes and apparently they don't fry stators as often. However realize you are using a SHZuNT r/r and not the preferable series type.

 

[Brendan W]

WAIT! I'm an idiot! Thats the whole friggin purpose on the RR! To regulate the charge going in and out. Doy!

The r/r regulates the supply to the ignition, lights and topping off the battery. It, with the stator, is a mini power station that runs the bikes 'grid' and puts some by in the battery for times when the output from the stator is insufficient for the load and to have enough energy stored for the next start. It won't control the current to the starter motor.