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Regulator/Rectifier replacement

  • Thread starter Thread starter tsassman
  • Start date Start date
The good news is that you have confirmend I have once again made it through another day without becoming insane. LOL

Check the stator output, we gotta get to the bottom of this little pecadillo.
NO, thats not a peckerdillo. :-) Charging systems are just not that complicated. It cant be this difficult. :-) :-) :-)

Earl

AOD said:
Yeah Earl, you did tell me how to check the stator output. I need to do that I guess...I think I'm scared to becuase I know it's not going to be pretty... :oops:

~Adam
 
I meant to ask...do I just ground to the battery when checking the output of the stator?
 
Thats a BIG NO !!!! The battery is DC current. The stator is AC current.

There are three wires coming FROM your stator. Each wire represents a different AC phase. The potential between any two phases should be 80 volts AC when the engine is running at 5000 rpm. The check must be done at that engine rpm to be accurate because stator output varies with engine rpm. The three stator wires end in a plug. Disconnect that plug. This means for the test, the stator is not connected to anything what so ever.
Usually the three stator wires will be yellow, but color does not matter as they are all electrically the same, just in different phases. Set your multimeter to the AC scale, AC scale yes AC scale :-) :-) 200V setting.
If we number the three wires of your stator 1,2 and 3, then you want to put one of the meter probes on wire 1 and the other probe on wire 2 to check the first phase output. Next put one meter probe on wire 2 and the other simultaneously on wire 3 and check output on this phase. To check the 3rd phase place the meter probes on wire 1 and wire 3. It does not matter which meter probe (black or red) you use on a wire. There is no positive and negative in AC current.

Earl

AOD said:
I meant to ask...do I just ground to the battery when checking the output of the stator?
 
I worked on it a bit last night, fabricating a new mount for the new R/R since the old one won't come out without a saw. I have the airbox in place still (strapped in) so I drilled through the backside of it and using a small plate of aluminum attached that to the R/R and then to the airbox. It sticks up a little bit, so I'm hoping it gets enough cool air blowing in from the side covers when riding.

In the winter it could be a butt warmer. :)

I cut the bullet connector off the new R/R wire harness and found a new ring terminal to fit. I need a butt-splice to connect a small piece of wire to the red R/R wire and run that over to the battery. Going to get a solder iron from a friend today. Should be finished up soon...

This better be worth another Volt Earl!!! :P :P

~Adam
 
If the voltage is there to start with, it probably will be. :-) :-) :-)
Why do I have the feeling you STILL have not checked your stator output?
:-) :-) :-) That is the FIRST thing I do when I have a charging problem.
heh heh


Earl

AOD said:
This better be worth another Volt Earl!!! :P :P

~Adam
 
earl that's part of adams magic, since adam was a former chicago guy i have seen adam work first hand.... He does a good job just ask joe nardy.


Adam, when you coming back this way?

-ryan
 
Magic, eh Ryan. :)

I'll be back in Illinois in the summer:
June 23-26 - Brother's Wedding (some free time)
July 8-10 - Nascar race
August 12-14 - Friend's Wedding (some free time)
September 9-11 - IRL race

Not going to make it back before June. Wish I could ride with you guys again. :( Come down for the June rally!

~Adam
 
and no Earl, I haven't checked the stator output...I told you...it's probably bad!! :) :)
 
Hmmm, something akin to being lost in the desert without any water, but figuring everything will be ok because you have a package of instant lemonade huh. LMAO.

Earl :-)


AOD said:
and no Earl, I haven't checked the stator output...I told you...it's probably bad!! :) :)
 
:)

I just finished the wiring mod to the R/R...no solder needed I guess. I don't much like these crimp on connectors, but they're Panduit quality at least.

Gas tank is off...hmmmn....I could make it remote for a few minutes to check the NEW battery level when running. I've got 25 minutes before I have to go to my hockey game!

~Adam
 
Well Earl...you're good for a Volt. :P

Earl-mod wiring gives me 14.1 volts at 5000 RPM with the battery voltage of 12.75 after fully charged. I'm going to take that battery back, since it's only a month or two old and has been used a whole 15 minutes of it's life besides sitting on the charger.

Thanks for all the help...looks like this will make it fine through the riding season as long as it maintains. :)

~Adam
 
14.1 is about lower limit. At least you're in the usable, probably without starting or charging problems range now. :-) Still needs further checking and problem solving, but I doubt you will be taking any surprise walks because of it. :-)

Earl

AOD said:
Well Earl...you're good for a Volt. :P

Earl-mod wiring gives me 14.1 volts at 5000 RPM with the battery voltage of 12.75 after fully charged. I'm going to take that battery back, since it's only a month or two old and has been used a whole 15 minutes of it's life besides sitting on the charger.

Thanks for all the help...looks like this will make it fine through the riding season as long as it maintains. :)

~Adam
 
and I won't have to carry the battery charger in my backpack or use the kick starter anymore. :)

No need to check my stator output for now! :P :P he he

Only thing I'm thinking about now is how to put a small fan on the new R/R...I was thinking a PC fan but they're 5 volt...not 12.

Earl, is that existing red wire from the wire-harness (that runs to San Fransicso) a switched 12V wire or live all the time 12V? I didn't check before I taped it back.

~Adam
 
I must say this thread has been providing me great entertainment, thanks Earl, thanks Adam. If you look at the sticker on almost all PC fans it says they are 12V. The left over red wire is always hot and should be taped well out of the way. While a PC fan will help get rid of some of the heat. The components in the R/R are still getting hotter than they should and will fail prematurely, it's just a matter of time that you willing buying another R/R and having to bump start your bike. Hope I'm wrong. Good luck.
 
It's not getting to a scorching level...but it's a component that uses heat transfer to remove energy so any helping of that heat transfer is only going to help.

Now that I think about it, you're right, PC fans ARE 12 Volt. :)

Glad this proved humorous to you Sandy...I hope others find it useful in the future...it's the best R/R replacement thread I've ever read. :D

~Adam
 
I would assume it would be hot all the time since it provided a path to battery.

Earl


AOD said:
Earl, is that existing red wire from the wire-harness (that runs to San Fransicso) a switched 12V wire or live all the time 12V? I didn't check before I taped it back.

~Adam
 
If your R/R is still getting too hot to comfortably hold your hand on indefinitely, the R/R life will be shortened. It will be shortened in direct proportion to how hot the R/R becomes. Dont run the bike without the headlight on and preferably on high beam.

Earl


AOD said:
It's not getting to a scorching level...but it's a component that uses heat transfer to remove energy so any helping of that heat transfer is only going to help.

Now that I think about it, you're right, PC fans ARE 12 Volt. :)

Glad this proved humorous to you Sandy...I hope others find it useful in the future...it's the best R/R replacement thread I've ever read. :D

~Adam
 
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