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Rejetting 77 gs550 for pods and pipes

  • Thread starter Thread starter parkerross
  • Start date Start date
P

parkerross

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So I'm a total noob.

I am in the process of of rejetting my 77 gs550 for pods and pipes since the old air box was trashed. I see there is rarely see any mention of the pilot jet no. 2. which is 50. I am jetting for k&n pods and 4 in 1 exhaust with a mini muffler no baffle. I changed the mains to 92.5 and was still lean so I'm changing to 100 tonight and pilot no 1. to 17.5 and moved the needle 2 notches. Should i keep the pilot jet no. 2. how it is stock (i'm confused why its never mentioned). Also for these changes where would you suggest for a good starting point with the fuel mixture screws on the bottom?

also I have

I have replaced the manifold boots and o rings but it still seems like i have a vacuum leak it revs around 3k-4k once it reaches 3k on the throttle and won't come down unless i'm in gear and fiddle with the clutch lever. idle stays around 1200. I haven't checked the points or valves yet as I don't have a clue what I'm doing. Could the valves or points cause this issue?

thanks

any help would be much appreciated and if any of you are in portland area and wouldn't mind showing me some things i would greatly appreciate an help i can get. I've learned a ton reading this forum but still nervous to attempt some things.
 
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I can't really offer any technical help (I paid to have mine rejetted on a dyno), but I think most would agree 1200 is a nice healthy idle.
 
When you play with mixtures it's best to do one thing at a time. Change the mains..... run it, raise the needles... run it and so on. Getting it right is time consuming.
Good luck :D
 
I think on my wife's, we ended up with 102.5 mains, but I think a 100 might be slightly better for her particular bike with pods and pipes. Dual exhaust with straight through glasspacks.

the stock pilot jets work great, the bike idles GREAT, no lean hanging at all. Try raising your needles one notch from stock.that would mean putting the clip in one slot lower, which actually raises the needle higher, as the clip sits stationary in the carb slide.
 
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When tuning a bike, the very first step is making sure the valve clearances are correct. Only then should you start with carb tuning, etc...
 
Thanks for the responses so far. I've read the sticky about pods and many other pod related threads. I guess I'll just have to dive into checking the valves and points I just wish I had somebody to run through it with me. I bought the tools I need, maybe I'll take a go at it this week. Any one have any thoughts on the pilot jet no. 2? Or symptoms that could be causing the rev sticking?

Thanks
 
I don't recall a pilot jet number two on those carbs, are you referring to the pilot air jet? That is typically fixed and is a brass orifice that is pressed into the carb body. there is also a main air jet (Fixed/preseed in also) and needle jet, & the needle jet does not typically need changing unless you do a big bore kit.
 
Rev sticking either means too lean (likely vacuum leak -boots/boot o-rings/carb o-rings) or could be that you are fouling plugs at idle but before they foul & idle at 1000-ish, they are fully firing & this "induces" the "high" idle.

Also could be sticking mechanical advancer arms/weak advancer springs, but tthat' even more of a long shot.
 
parkerross said:
Thanks for the responses so far. I've read the sticky about pods and many other pod related threads. I guess I'll just have to dive into checking the valves and points I just wish I had somebody to run through it with me. I bought the tools I need, maybe I'll take a go at it this week. Any one have any thoughts on the pilot jet no. 2? Or symptoms that could be causing the rev sticking?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Where are you located? I am tuning a 78 550E at the moment and I could offer some advice or help if close. The jet you are referring to, just leave as is. the 50 works just fine.

The rpm hang up might be caused by a vacuum leak. Try small short sprays of carb cleaner around the intake boots. The valve adjustment should be first though.
 
I looked up the parts fiche diagram for a refresher, the vm22ss's don't use the same type of pilot jets that the larger vm's use,& the pilot jet is basically a 2 piece jet, with the emulsion tube being jet #2 (I believe that is the coreect terminology). They are stacked in the same pilot hole. Stock should be just fine unless you run open velocity stacks or are using non-gs550 vm22's.
 
78550GS said:
Where are you located? I am tuning a 78 550E at the moment and I could offer some advice or help if close. The jet you are referring to, just leave as is. the 50 works just fine.

The rpm hang up might be caused by a vacuum leak. Try small short sprays of carb cleaner around the intake boots. The valve adjustment should be first though.
Click to expand...

I'm located in Portland, OR it looks as you are in Ohio, I doubt I'm close enough ha. Thanks for the offer though. The intake boots should be good as I just replaced them when I got the bike a couple months ago. Even if the o rings in the carbs don't have any visible damaged is it a good idea to replace them? When I cleaned the carbs I didn't notice any, I just assumed they we're in good condition still.
 
Go ahead and order a set of O-rings for the carb internals. I would much rather KNOW they are new than assume.
 
Can I follow this video for doing valve check even though its not exactly the same as gs550? I can't find any detailed video with an older gs, but from the little I know about valves they look very similar to the written tutorials i've read. But I just need a visual while following along with the manual for the correct specs. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIL0eMzRPF8
 
parkerross said:
Can I follow this video for doing valve check even though its not exactly the same as gs550? I can't find any detailed video with an older gs, but from the little I know about valves they look very similar to the written tutorials i've read. But I just need a visual while following along with the manual for the correct specs. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIL0eMzRPF8
Click to expand...

The concept is correct, but all the details are wrong. :-k

Even with the correct directions, too many 'newbies' get the procedure wrong on cam positioning.

It's not a video, but click HERE to visit our GSR Library (also known as BassCliff's "little" website).

While in the library, be sure to click HERE to get a copy of a service manual for your bike, then click HERE to see the tutorial on valve adjustment. The tutorial was written with an 850 as the 'victim', but it's virtually the same as your bike, as far as valve adjustment goes.

The technique in your video will work for actual shim replacement, but everything leading up to that will be different.

.
 
Be sure you don't rotate the engine with any shims out. The cam lobe will gouge the shim bucket (ask me how I know). A quarter can be used in place of a shim, as a temporary place holder, if you are going to pull a few out to trade them or swap positions.
 
8ball said:
Be sure you don't rotate the engine with any shims out. The cam lobe will gouge the shim bucket (ask me how I know). A quarter can be used in place of a shim, as a temporary place holder, if you are going to pull a few out to trade them or swap positions.
Click to expand...
You got lucky. :-k

Usually, the shim bucket will tear the snot out of the edges of the cam lobes.

.
 
The edges of the cam lobes are rough cast. Whatever damage to the edges that is done is easily fixed with a small file. The burrs on the buckets make it so the shims won't sit flat, which make that the more critical damage. I was able to fix that, as well, but it made the job a lot more complicated than it should have been. Not to mention all the inspection and cleaning to be sure no filings or metal shavings are left in the cam box..
 
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