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Relays...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Defore
  • Start date Start date
D

Defore

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Hello everyone. I'm trying to get some info on why to install relays for my coil, horn lights etc. Thank you
 
Hello everyone. I'm trying to get some info on why to install relays for my coil, horn lights etc. Thank you
Head to Basscliff's, look for "electrical odds and ends", find "system relay mod.." courtesy of Koolaid Kid- one stop for explanation and method.
 
"Why" is because 30 odd year old wiring may not carry 12 volts to critical locations. Direct wiring through relays ensures the power get there.
 
Easy but not detailed answer:
Over time, our electrical systems experience voltage drop due to many factors, including but not limited to corrosion at bullet connectors. For what ever reason, Suzuki seems to have this problem more than other Japanese manufacturers. At least Kawasaki, which I have personal experience with, has no such issues.
The voltage output of a good charging system is around 14.4 volts, but at the end users (coils, horns, lights, etc.) it may be several volts lower, which leads to many issues. Relays, if CORRECTLY implemented, can eliminate this issue. Many implementations have been posted, some are good, many are questionable (IMHO).
 
I will recommend that before you start throwing relays on the bike, do the free and simple things first - clean connectors, inspect wiring for anything that shouldn't be, etc.
 
"Why" is because 30 odd year old wiring may not carry 12 volts to critical locations. Direct wiring through relays ensures the power get there.
Yes, power is the overall concern. Power = Volts times Current. The power demand and requirement is a constant. If voltage drops, current rises. Heat then becomes an issue, things overheat, issues occur, friends have to take you and your bike home.
 
I will recommend that before you start throwing relays on the bike, do the free and simple things first - clean connectors, inspect wiring for anything that shouldn't be, etc.
Absolutely. Never start modding any system that is not up to its full potential at the start. Electrical, mechanical, etc. For our bikes, replacing key bullet connectors with spade connectors is highly recommended and pretty much a requirement for a good performing system.
 
OK thank you. Bit yes I have respiced all my connections but still draining from my lights when blinkers are on so I figured it wouldn't hurt to relay my system since I've done everything else.
 
When you say it's draining from your lights when the blinkers are on tells my non-existent experience that you still have problems with connectors or wiring. Really clean, not just resplice, your connectors using deoxit and something scrubby (as best you can). Make sure you don't have any wiring that's uncovered for a reason and maybe touching other wires or the frame. You'd be surprised what you'll find if you tear off the harness, strip the entire thing of its tape, and really go to town to clean it up.

All going up in fuse amperage will mean is it will take more to blow the fuse. This ultimately means you'll burn something up long before the fuse blows to tell you there is a problem.
 
Or should I do 40
Yes. And no. The correct Bosch-style relays have 2 ratings, ON and OFF. This relates to terminal 87 and 87A. A relay rated at 30A Off (87A) is rated lower On (87) which is what you need for pretty much everything.
Short answer, for our charging systems the 30A relay will do just dandy. Be sure and get an extra or two in case of failure.
 
Yes I've cut open the wiring harness cleaned with degreaser dried heat shrinked then retaped so I should have the best connection ima get. And I'm talking about when its not running it'll drain from the lights. I've been building it for months and after Monday it'll have new shim then it'll run so I'm working out all the kinks now.
 
It will work. It is also overpriced. Buy 2 30A relays for the same price and you will have a backup (As any mechanical/electrical component, they can fail). They are called Bosch style relays and have either 4 or 5 terminals. It is an industry standard. 5 terminals is the most common configuration, but either will be fine for your needs.
 
Power = Volts times Current relationship is used out if context in this instance. Power demand is not a constant. If resistance increases then Ohm's Law: Amps. = Volts/Resistance applies so an increase in resistance results in a reduction of current/Amps. which must also mean a reduction in power/Watts. The heating is a result of the available voltage driving current through the resistance of the poor connection which is the basis of the heating.

Rest assured that in a DC resistance circuit, current will not rise as the result of a decrease in current flow due to increased resistance. While this may result in dynamic circuits such as that containing a DC motor, the effect is not in the same context.

In fact, the most effective way to determine whether there is a concern regarding resistance in a circuit is to do a voltage drop measurement with normal current flow. This should be done before pulling connections for cleaning and other operations because a higher than normal voltage drop will definitely indicate a circuit problem which could be due to a poor connection.

HIH

Norm



Yes, power is the overall concern. Power = Volts times Current. The power demand and requirement is a constant. If voltage drops, current rises. Heat then becomes an issue, things overheat, issues occur, friends have to take you and your bike home.
 
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What do you mean by "still draining from my lights when blinkers are on"?

Do you mean that other lights dim when bliinkers are operating?

If this is the case, is this only at idle or with engine rev'd up?

What effect if you switch headlight off?

Is the effect greater when brake light is also on?

Have you a voltmeter to take voltage drop measurements?

HIH

Norm



OK thank you. Bit yes I have respiced all my connections but still draining from my lights when blinkers are on so I figured it wouldn't hurt to relay my system since I've done everything else.
 
The heating is a result of the available voltage driving current through the resistance of the poor connection which is the basis of the heating.

I don't think this is quite right. The heat dissipated by a resistance in a constant-voltage circuit (our bikes) is the square of the voltage divided by the resistance, so the increased resistance in a corroded connector will decrease the heat dissipated in that connector.

So, if you have problems with wires or connectors overheating, it means that the resistance is too _low_, and you probably have a short.
 
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