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removal of piston block on 1978 GS 750

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
I am rebuilding my 1978 GS 750 with the help of my Climer Manual. I removed the valve block, and as per the manual, the piston block should just be lifted out. It doesnt.
I inspected it very carefully, and do not see any more nuts or bolts holding the block in place. I tapped the block with a hammer, using a 2x4 as a cushon, and still, no movement. Any advice will be welcome.

Thank you
Irwin
 
try a bigger hammer!!

often the cylinder block is stuck good to the base gasket and you just have to persuade it into coming loose, you could try spraying around the base gasket with a good penetrating lubricant and allowing it to soak in good overnight, sometimes this helps.
 
focus frenzy said:
try a bigger hammer!!
That's my line!! :D
Seriously,though.on the 550 the block has been known to "stick" to the studs if it hasn't been removed since original assembly and can be an absolute pig to remove (not those studs that double as oil galleries,obviously!).I assume the 750 will be the same.Use some penetrating fluid on them overnight as well.Once you get some movement,work the block up & down,this'll break down the crap on the studs and in the holes.Took a mechanic two days to get my barrels off when I got a cylinder hone and new rings done,although he was working on other bikes while the WD40 was working its way in.
 
If you do manage to be a goof like me and break off a fin :evil: , you can glue the piece back on with Crazy Glue. Worked for me! :D
 
De-Finned

De-Finned

Hi Kevin
Yes, I'm definately am a goof. I allready managed to break off parts of 2 fins ( I dont learn easily ) but only small sections. Ill try the crazy glue, but.... I still have to remove the block ! (thanx 4 the advice)
I set up a system of crow bars, and blocks of wood,... and heavy things hanging from the crow bar... to put upward pressure on the block... so as I sleep tonight, i'll dream of my block gently being lifted...
This scenario is scary..... since i should have better things to dream about... but... hey....I do dream of riding my bike one day.... hopefully sooner than later.
Irwin
 
I don't remember how I got my cylinder block off, but I remember it was a royal pain! Probably CAREFULLY hitting the block (after I broke off a fin :evil: ), and using lots of penetrating oil. Good luck! :wink:
 
If you look at the corners of the clock usually there will be some small slots where you can use a large screwdriver to wedge up the cylinder. There sometimes is a stud and nut usually around the cam chain galley. Make sure its not there.I have also seen a few bikes where inside the cam chain galley there is a bolt also. Be careful and don`t over look anything....you can bust your cases so easy.
 
cbxchris

cbxchris

I have seen a bolt on the bottom of the cam chain assemble, however the bolt is just below the block.... is this the bolt you are talking about ? Its located right at the back end of the opening, and very difficult to get to.
Irwin
 
Although I am not personally familiar with your particular engine but most engines are bascially the same from that era. Most will have either a stud or bolt that will go through the cases to hold down tightly the cam chain galley to stop oil leaks. Most suzuki`s will have it at the front of the block and a 10mm nut will be on a stud or a 6mm bolt will go through a boss to the cases. Either way its got to come off before the block is removed. You do have the front guide removed? They will lock into place in the cases down through the block. the rear guide will be on some type pivot. I hope someone jumps in here with particular knowledge of your engine. I am only just giving general advice based on several different type engines. Your manual should tell you of a hidden bolt but sometimes it does not. Just be careful. Most of the time I have learned if you have to beat it its got a bolt in it. Good Luck!!!
 
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