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Removed Cylinder Liners Using BBQ

Nessism

Nessism

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Cylinder liners are scored so decided to experiment by trying to remove them; heated the cylinders on the grill and the liners practically fell out.:cool: Checked warpage after the cylinder cooled off and it's fine.

If new/used liners were installed would they loose their roundness or are the liners thick enough to hold their shape? Not sure if I'm going that way but just wondering.

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i would think that new liners would come with stock in them for boring or honing. i don't know if they do but if they don't you could install new ones and check for roundness.
 
There is one liner halfway out of my big bore cylinders. I think I'll try this to put it back in.
Seems like if everything is allowed to cool naturally it should work fine.
Wish I had an internal bore gauge to check for rondness after, but I'm sure I can come up with someone that does.
 
I'm pretty sure the aftermarket liners on the market, such as from LA Sleeve, need to be bored and honed after being installed. I'd like to know what would happen if a stock liner was installed though. There is not all that much interference and any that is there, is reduced when the engine is up to operating temperature anyway.
 
courier11sec said:
There is one liner halfway out of my big bore cylinders. I think I'll try this to put it back in.
Seems like if everything is allowed to cool naturally it should work fine.
Wish I had an internal bore gauge to check for rondness after, but I'm sure I can come up with someone that does.
Click to expand...

I'm going to take mine to the shop for the hone and have them check before and after.
 
just put mine in to "cook"
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I have a remote cooking thermometer stuck in the cooling fins. sitting at *280F and climbing.
I wonder what I should heat it to?
 
Not sure what the minimum would be but mine was up to 400F. After 15 min at 400, take a piece of wood or a rubber mallet and tap the liner down if it doesn't fall down on it's own.
 
Now it's time to get "cookin" on the rest of your bike Courier!
 
That was quick.
I went out to check it at 317* and just pushed lightly with a chunk of wood. Slid right in.
It's sitting in there now with the burners off and the door shut to cool slowly. I'll post another pic when it's cool. don't want to open the door again as it's cold out and might shock the barrels.
 
The only units I am familiar with replacing liners on are diesels where the liners are thick enough to drop them in with matching rings and rock and roll. A bike liner I would assume that it need to be finished in the jug assy.

I know with aluminum, it is VERY important to have everything torqued to spec with torque plates before doing a final hone, even with iron liners.

I've seen it go as far as having the cyls up to operating temp and then honing to factor in any additional distortion. Usually this is accomplished with a vat of hot oil and there is a lot more out there than this old school method.

http://www.motorcycle.in.th/article.php/Building_a_Modern_Motorcycle_Engine

http://www.spearsenterprises.com/pdf/cylinderBoringFinishing.pdf
 
Ed, just stick used liners in your block the same way. Heat the bare block & then open the BBQ & stick the liners in. Repeat heating as neccessary & let cool naturally with the lid closed. Ray.
 
rapidray said:
Ed, just stick used liners in your block the same way. Heat the bare block & then open the BBQ & stick the liners in. Repeat heating as neccessary & let cool naturally with the lid closed. Ray.
Click to expand...

You might put some weight on top of the liners too as they cool, keep them down all the way..
 
SqDancerLynn1 said:
You might put some weight on top of the liners too as they cool, keep them down all the way..
Click to expand...

So Ed, do you just need the liners and not the whole cylinders?
Would certainly save on shipping.

P.S. I know how to take them out now. :-)
 
Just a thought. Heat the cylinders up to get the liner out, but instead of heating them up again to get the new ones in, it might be easier to just keep the new liners in the freezer for a bit.
 
You will still have to heat the block to get the sleeves in. Freezing the sleeves, by itself, is NOT enough. Just so you know. Ray.
 
Dry ice could be used to shrink the liners and then drop em in. Valve seats can be done the same way.
 
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