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Removing Airbox

  • Thread starter Thread starter 03svrider
  • Start date Start date
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03svrider

Guest
I need to replace the airbox on my 81 GS450L due to a cross threaded bolt just spinning the threaded metal in the plastic airbox. Do I have to remove the engine to get the airbox out? It looks as if it won't come out with just removing the carbs alone and the factory manual I have makes no mention of the procedure.
 
Pita

Pita

Well if it's anything like my 1980 750L be prepared for a "battle" especially if the boots are hard and non-flexible. I had to remove the carbs just to get the airbox off. There may be an easier way but with this old stuff everything is not as flexible as it use to be(including me) and if you try to hard you break something(including me)

I didn't even try to put it back on, went with PODs. Makes life alot easier but of course you most likely will have to re-jet to obtain max performance.

Good luck
 
Newbee said:
... went with PODs. Makes life alot easier but of course you most likely will have to re-jet to obtain max performance.
Click to expand...
You won't have to re-jet to obtain max performance. :-k

You'll have to re-jet just to maintain minimum performance. :eek:

Even a bike with stock airbox and exhaust systems can sometimes benefit from a minor jet change for maximum performance, but when you change the airbox for pods and/or install a header instead of the stock exhaust, the air flow is different enough that you will have to re-jet. The question is how much.

My personal opinion (for what it's worth) is that unless you are out there racing (track or street :oops:) and absatively, posilutely have to have every last pony the engine is capable of producing, sticking with stock will be better in the long run. Yeah, two of the bikes in my stable have headers, one of them also has pods, but that's the way they came, and I made sure they are re-jetted properly.

.
 
pods no thanks

pods no thanks

As the last post said , try to stay with the stock intake , rejetting and up and down with the needles , maybe even the pilots sometimes need to be changed. all for more noise and harder starting. do yourself a favour and stay stock even at the expense of scratched knuckles and sore fingers.Try soaking the rubber connectors in hot water as you slip the box back on. practise makes perfect in this case.
 
I've decided to just leave the airbox and get a new bracket that isn't cut up and figure out a way to keep it secure along with the one mounting point that doesn't have a screw stuck in it.
 
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