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Removing and cleaning chain

  • Thread starter Thread starter Tamara
  • Start date Start date
+2 On that brush and WD40.
I actually use the belray more on the car door hinges...
 
Or just use teflonspray to lubricate the chain as you only look after the O rings really. And them you don't get a dirty chain.
The DuPont chain lube is a teflon spray, merely more focused on chains than anything else. The original formula was just a teflon spray.
 
KK, You wouldn't last long on the FZ1 site dissing WD-40.

75% of the members use it for everything chain related and no one reports any bad effects. Hell some of them gargle with it. Personally I use it for cleaning but I usually spray it on the rag not on the chain itself. I occasionally use it as lube as well sprayed directly on the chain.

I don't prefer it as lube because Chain Wax last longer but no one (including me) is reporting less than 20K miles of service out of FZ1 chains, whether they use conventional lube and cleaners or WD-40.

This calls for multiple WD-40 threads as its reputation has now been sullied.
I'm touched.
It worked great when I sprayed it in the distributor of a 1966 Olds 88; the car started right up because it displaced the water.
For anything I need to do, I will use something engineered to do the job. Clean a chain - chain cleaner. Lube a chain - chain lube. Displace water - WD-40.
 
I've used WD40 when cleaning my chain, I don't spray it on, I take an old sock soak it good then scrub my chain down. My clean white sock turns black in a hurry. Then I take another old sock that is clean and dry and wipe the chain down good to remove any left over WD40. Leaves the chain nice and dirt free I won't let it dry on the chain. I clean the sprockets as well especially between the teeth. No cavities:p

Oh yeah, the chain remains on the bike during all this. I just slowly rotate it by hand.
 
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I'm touched.
It worked great when I sprayed it in the distributor of a 1966 Olds 88; the car started right up because it displaced the water.
For anything I need to do, I will use something engineered to do the job. Clean a chain - chain cleaner. Lube a chain - chain lube. Displace water - WD-40.

I'm with you on this, Aerosol mechanics, doubtful at best and it can be used for many things but for sure it isn't the magic pill for all ills that many believe it is, in fact it does much damage, I've seen it sprayed on PCB's and it lifts the tracks off the boards, when its squirted onto stuff like hinges it washes off any residual oil then evaporates leaving the thing in a worse condition, on plastics it makes it go brittle especially wires, it buggers rubber.
I read someplace its main ingredient is fish oil.
 
WD40 doesn't bugger up rubber when used in a normal way. So you can spray it on your O ring chain as often as you want.
But some rubbers will swelll up when they are left for a long period in WD40. Now that is not something what happens when spraying in on a chain. On a chain it just lubricates the O rings and it shifts a bit of rust.
Its main ingredi?nt is a secret anyway but people can guess I suppose.
So it can swell up some rubber sorts but after the WD40 evaporated they take there normal shape again.
I have used it for many years on chains never had any problems. There is one thing that it will do though. Don't use it too often on switches as the painted letters on them will disappear eventually. I would say that using th wrong chain grease/lubricant can do more harm to your O rings.
 
Chains are so good these days they last damned near forever even with no maintenance at all. 20,000 - 25,000 miles is easy with no special rituals. Hell I haven't even adjusted the chain yet on my 12,000 mile 2009 bike.

The days of removing chains and doing all kinds of religious experiences with them to get 6,000 miles out of a chain are long gone.

I agree! On my Bandit 1200, I normally adjust my chain only when I need to replace the rear tire. Chains don't stretch like they did in the old days. Technology has improved them immensely. A little lube for the "O" rings to keep them pliable and a occasional wipe and spray on the side links to keep them clean and rust free and that's it. The chain almost takes care of itself.
 
I'm with you on this, Aerosol mechanics, doubtful at best and it can be used for many things but for sure it isn't the magic pill for all ills that many believe it is, in fact it does much damage, I've seen it sprayed on PCB's and it lifts the tracks off the boards, when its squirted onto stuff like hinges it washes off any residual oil then evaporates leaving the thing in a worse condition, on plastics it makes it go brittle especially wires, it buggers rubber.


I read someplace its main ingredient is fish oil.

Not quite. WD40 is primarily Stoddard solvent and mineral oil. It has minimal lubricating qualities and is not considered a lubricant. It's a water displacement formulation/rust preventative.
 
Dangerous!

Dangerous!

If no master link then you cannot remove it with out taking things apart, and or breaking a link, and then using a master link to put it back together.

if it's just cleaning then your chain does not need to be removed at all

use a brush

4180-183.jpg


or a rag and your cleaning solution

don't get your fingers caught

and do not clean the chain by having the bike running and in gear, VERY Dangerous and should not be done period...

.

Wow--this is an understatement!

I've seen a pic where someone tried to clean their bike chain with the engine running and fingers were sheered off by the sprocket. (Nasty!!!)

Why anyone would do that is beyond me.

I do like the suggestions for the brush GK and WD40. I will be cleaning my chain soon...she needs some love!






Ed
 
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Not quite. WD40 is primarily Stoddard solvent and mineral oil. It has minimal lubricating qualities and is not considered a lubricant. It's a water displacement formulation/rust preventative.

The nice thing about it that it does leave a layer (the thin layer that prevents water staying there) on the O rings which makes it possible to turn better and that is why they last longer then having the dry rubber. But a bit of teflonpray will do that trick too.
 
Not quite. WD40 is primarily Stoddard solvent and mineral oil. It has minimal lubricating qualities and is not considered a lubricant. It's a water displacement formulation/rust preventative.

Careful with that rust preventative thing. I heard it caused rust, so I tried it. Sprayed WD-40 on one cylinder of a disassembled old GS 1000 engine, on one side of two other cylinders, and none on the last cylinder. I marked where I sprayed with a felt pen, and threw it on the floor of a storage locker. A somewhat humid environment, Dallas Texas, not too bad. A year and a half later, guess where the surface rust was forming?

Exactly on the places where I sprayed the WD-40. Exactly.

It's OK for a short time, but in long term use it will make it worse.
 
The wd40 shifted the oil that was on there. En the WD40 only stops rust for a short while. That is why it started to corrode.
 
The wd40 shifted the oil that was on there. En the WD40 only stops rust for a short while. That is why it started to corrode.

There was no oil on it at all, there's something else happening. I don't understand it but it's true. It does stop rust temporarily. Then something changes.
 
Pop the cover off, clean in there, inspect.
Lift back of bike off ground.
Remove rear wheel and brake stay, clean, inspect.
Throw a bungee over the seat and attach ends to swingarm.
Remove shocks, clean, inspect. (Swingarm is off ground and level due to bungee)
Remove swingarm, remove bushings, clean, inspect, inspect and clean bearings, Regrease parts.
Clean up and inspect everything behind the seat, touchup with paint if necessary.
Soak chain in kero and clean.
Reassemble.
Now everything back there is good to go for a few more years!
 
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