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removing bolt from bottom of fork replacing seals.

  • Thread starter Thread starter rockhammer
  • Start date Start date
R

rockhammer

Guest
Hello so I am in the process of replacing my seals. I am tearing the fork down but the bolt at the bottom of the fork will not come out. It is turning and turning but it does not come out, just turns and turns.

any suggestions. I used the air compressor to pop the seal but only part of it popped out barley and now it just leaks air not sure if it will come out complete.

Best
 
try pulling the fork bottom away from the sliding tube as you undo the bolt. putting one end in a bench vice helps.
 
nothing. I dont get why this is not just coming out. turns and turns. I am actually trying to get the fork seal out. I tried the air but only popped part of it not enough to even get a hold of it.
 
Did replace them. It still just turns. Why would it be turning and not coming out you think?

I hope I can tighten it back up.

Any other tips for getting this seal out?
 
and the frustration begins. It wont tighten now either. haha

well I am at a loss.
 
Looks like I am going to need to make a t tool. I will find some one with a welder and have one made. Did not realize I would need this.
 
I did the same thing first time I went to replace some seals.
Would imagine it is pretty common.
:-k:p:D
 
Put the spring back in and the top back on the upper fork tube finger tight. This puts pressure back on the dampener bolt and now you can loosen it using a drill and socket attachment.
 
cowboyup3371 said:
Put the spring back in and the top back on the upper fork tube finger tight. This puts pressure back on the dampener bolt and now you can loosen it using a drill and socket attachment.
Click to expand...


The Chilton on my seca said you could remove with impact driver, did not work.
Of course That was the step after removing oil springs and spacers.

Will try and remember for next time I need to do a set.
Thank you cowboy!
 
You need not make any special tool. Take a broom or mop handle and place the inverted fork lower onto it.While pulling down with one hand on the fork lower, hit the allan bolt socket with an air gun and it will fall right out.
To re-install, just hit it lightly with the turned down gun. Simple.
 
cowboyup3371 said:
Put the spring back in and the top back on the upper fork tube finger tight. This puts pressure back on the dampener bolt and now you can loosen it using a drill and socket attachment.
Click to expand...


I will try this real quick.
 
retcol said:
You need not make any special tool. Take a broom or mop handle and place the inverted fork lower onto it.While pulling down with one hand on the fork lower, hit the allan bolt socket with an air gun and it will fall right out.
To re-install, just hit it lightly with the turned down gun. Simple.
Click to expand...

Ok tomorrow I will try this,
 
Okay here is what you need to loosen and tighten the fork bolt.


attachment.php
 
Long extension inserted backwards into spark plug socket will hold the damping rod from turning while you remove the allen head screw.

BTW, this topic is covered in at least a dozen different threads now in the archives.

w1126c.jpg
 
For those that are still reading this thread (because they don't want to search through the archives), a very inexpensive tool can be made without welding anything.

Get a 2-foot length of 1/2" all-thread rod and four nuts. Might cost $5 or so. Jam two nuts on each end of the rod, leaving a short length of threads sticking out.

Should look like this when you are done:

IMG_2027.jpg


IMG_2032.jpg


Insert the tool, use a spanner on the inner nut to hold the tool while you turn the bolt at the bottom of the fork.


The method that Nessism pointed out works just as well, using the same principle, but assumes you have enough extensions for your socket set to do that. If you have to buy some long extensions, the all-thread and nuts route is a bit cheaper.

.
 
Steve said:
For those that are still reading this thread (because they don't want to search through the archives)...


.
Click to expand...


Yup, the answer is right there waiting for people to find. I've seen that photo of yours Steve in at least half a dozen different threads on this same topic.:o
 
Also you need a good length of leverage at the Bolt end

With the tool shown comes out like Greased lightning
There is also a PVC tube trick to install the new seals will leave that explanation to the experts here or you may be able to borrow one :D
 
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