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Removing fork seals is a pain in the A**!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS750cafe
  • Start date Start date
I have a small set of channel lock type pliers. I open them up so the bottom jaw is out of the way and hook the tooth side of the top under the lip of the seal. The top of the pliers fits the tube so that it levers the seal up and out without damaging the fork tube. It has worked every time with little trouble. If they weren't so expensive, I would just take them apart and use that half of the tool for a GS fork seal puller.
 
Thanks everybody, I got them off, cleaned the tubes, put new seals and have them all put back together!

i used the pull and slam method.
which is to get one person to hold the main body of the Fork, and the other person grabs the inner tube and just starts yankin and slammin until the seal pops out.
(obviously you push the tube IN fully between Yanks)
Click to expand...

Not sure how this would have worked on my forks... once I removed the damper rod/spring bolt from the bottom the inner and outer tubes came right apart. The seal did nothing to hold them together. What I'm learning from all this is that Suzuki had quite a few variations of front forks depending on model and year of the bike...

I wouldn't mind someday upgrading to a GSXR front end... inverted forks with clip ons and modern discs would be bad ass.
 
One more quick question: I'm getting ready to fill forks with oil and my Clymer manual has so many different specs for quantity. My bike is a 1977 GS 750 E(I believe)... stamped on the frame it says it was made in 1976. Now the manual has specs for ET, EX, and EZ, but no E. Forks have no air valves and a single front disc. Any suggestions?
 
Hi,


See the Model Chart for explanations for the different letter designations. The '77 model year was actually a 750EB. You'll find a Suzuki manual for the early models on my little website. It may be a little more accurate than the Clymer book.


Thank you for your indulgence,


BassCliff
 
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