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Removing old gasket from head and block

R

ron bayless

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
1980 gs 1000,33,000 miles.I have the head and block off,new gasket set,now I am using solvent to clean off the old crud from all the parts.I was afraid to use a razor blade to scrape off the old block gasket and head gasket,but i dont see any other way to get all that crud off.I tried using plastic scrapers and nothing comes off that way.I figured if I made minute scratches taking off all the left behind gasket gunk my new gasket might not seal.If I was real careful maybe i use a razor blade? I need input asap.Thanks very much.Ron B
 
Your bike has 10 million miles WOW :wink:
Juat kidding
Check your PM box.
 
They've got some stuff called gasket remover which might work for you. I've never used it but some folks say good things about it. The gasket on my 550's valve cover came off in pieces with about 50% of it stuck to the head. I eventually got it off by gently using the razor blade to shave off the stuck pieces. I did put a few scratches into it which I rubbed out with some fine metal sandpaper. When I put the cover back I used a silicone rubber gasket and have not had any leaks. I've reused the rubber gasket 4 times now (due to a valve adjustments and a top end).
 
ron bayless said:
I am using solvent to clean off the old crud from all the parts.I was afraid to use a razor blade to scrape off the old block gasket and head gasket,but i dont see any other way to get all that crud off.

I figured if I made minute scratches taking off all the left behind gasket gunk my new gasket might not seal.If I was real careful maybe i use a razor blade? I need input asap.Thanks very much.Ron B
Click to expand...

If you use a NEW safety razorblade, and some CRC gasket stripper it should be very easy to remove the old gasket.

Watch for overspray into the pistons, and oil circuits.

use a clean damp rag afterward, then something like CRC 5.52 or WD40 to lightly spray around, then a clean dry rag again.

In the past 22 years I have done well over 2000 headgaskets on cars and motorbikes using this method and have never had a problem with a leaking headgasket afterward.

Hope this helps.
 
GS750 said:
If you use a NEW safety razorblade, and some CRC gasket stripper it should be very easy to remove the old gasket.

Watch for overspray into the pistons, and oil circuits.

use a clean damp rag afterward, then something like CRC 5.52 or WD40 to lightly spray around, then a clean dry rag again.

In the past 22 years I have done well over 2000 headgaskets on cars and motorbikes using this method and have never had a problem with a leaking headgasket afterward.

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys!!!! Once again,you all came to the rescue!!
 
If your in a tight spot and you get some stubborn leftovers I used a very soft wire brush on a dremel to get rid of the finer small pieces. Like you I was paranoid about the razor blade pitting my motor in any way... but the wire brush on the dremel does the trick nicely, makes the work really easy too. You can buy bigger wire brushes for your drill too which you can use to get teh grime and other stuff off the head too. That also worked wonders for me when I was preping surfaces.

Just my .02

Good luck
 
Kcwiro said:
If your in a tight spot and you get some stubborn leftovers I used a very soft wire brush on a dremel to get rid of the finer small pieces. Like you I was paranoid about the razor blade pitting my motor in any way... but the wire brush on the dremel does the trick nicely, makes the work really easy too. You can buy bigger wire brushes for your drill too which you can use to get teh grime and other stuff off the head too. That also worked wonders for me when I was preping surfaces.

Just my .02

Good luck
Click to expand...

Thanks friend,i appreciate it.
 
Rather than a razor blade I like to use an Exacto knife with a chisel blade - flat on the end not angled. I have much better control and don't gouge the surface as easily. There are a number of gasket softening solvents available which can really help - check your auto parts store.
 
yes,I have thought about that way too.I am going to get my gasket set soon and hate to have the whole thing held up by this simple problem that is trying to become a big problem.I can hardly wait to start putting it back together.I might not say that once i get started.
 
I'm pretty weary of using a razor on aluminum... It may cause some scarring, but my problems is that it really just doesnt slide against the metal all that well. I would have to agree with a dremel and wire wheel. 3M also sales pads that are rubber with nubs on it. You attach it to a die-grinder and go to town. Doesnt remove much metal material at all, just the crud. I know chrysler requires us to have them (and use them) here at the shop, especially with almost all the new motors having aluminum blocks and heads.
 
Sounds like a bunch of pretty good suggestions here. I just got done doing this, and I "gingerly" used a freshly sharpened wood chisel. Then I lightly scrubbed with a scotch-brite pad. Very lightly.
 
Second the 3M gasket removers - very quick and does a nice job. worth every penny.

I haven't had very good luck with chemical gasket remover. maybe if it was only 5 or 10 years old, but on 20+ yr gaskets, it doesn't seem to do much.
 
spchips said:
Second the 3M gasket removers - very quick and does a nice job. worth every penny.

I haven't had very good luck with chemical gasket remover. maybe if it was only 5 or 10 years old, but on 20+ yr gaskets, it doesn't seem to do much.
Click to expand...



so if its only a 5-10 year old gasket on a motor that has done 40000Km/year, and the other is a 20 year old gasket on a motor that has sat in a shed for 10 years, and been ran 5000km/year it wont work?

Ive personally never had any troubles with the gasket remover in a can, of course it wont get everything off but that is where the aid of a safety razor helps.
 
"Permatex" gasket remover worked for me. It took a few times and a lot of patience. I bought one of those gasket removal tools....never used a razer blade and let the gasket remover do most of the work. In the end a few scotchbrite pads took off the final residue. I guess I was helped the most by those who advised to take it easy with the scrapers and pads and stuff. Very easy.
 
Last edited:
whatever you use to remove the old stuff, you might want to consider planing the mating surfaces
that's going to give you a perfectly flat surface for the new gasket and reduce the possibility of any leakage (through any present deformity in the head/block mating area)
also, in the future, the gasket should come off more easily
 
Thanks for all the helpful tips.I have sprayed methylene cloride gasket remover on all the gasket surfaces so far,some places 6 times and the gasket paper left behind from separating the engine parts is extremely difficult to get it off.It requires much time and slow going patience.I could have had the motor back together 6 times by now.My cylinder base gasket was so intact,i regret pulling the block off now,but who knew?I will be so proud and so relieved if the motor starts and runs properly after all this.I have made some scratches on the surface,but i sure as heck am not going to get the surfaces machined.What good are gaskets if they wont compensate for very minute scratches anyway?
 
I've always used single edge razor blades to clean off the gasket gunk. You would have to be quite ham fisted to gouge the mating surface enough to matter using them. Gasket cleaner spray is fine to use but a bit of overkill in my opinion for a flat surface.
 
Agreed

Agreed

mark said:
"Permatex" gasket remover worked for me. It took a few times and a lot of patience. I bought one of those gasket removal tools....never used a razer blade and let the gasket remover do most of the work. In the end a few scotchbrite pads took off the final residue. I guess I was helped the most by those who advised to take it easy with the scrapers and pads and stuff. Very easy.
Click to expand...

Permatex Gasket Remover is great. I've used it for years with great results. Be very careful with overspray around any painted surfaces.
 
ron bayless said:
Thanks for all the helpful tips.I have sprayed methylene cloride gasket remover on all the gasket surfaces so far,some places 6 times and the gasket paper left behind from separating the engine parts is extremely difficult to get it off.It requires much time and slow going patience.I could have had the motor back together 6 times by now.My cylinder base gasket was so intact,i regret pulling the block off now,but who knew?I will be so proud and so relieved if the motor starts and runs properly after all this.I have made some scratches on the surface,but i sure as heck am not going to get the surfaces machined.What good are gaskets if they wont compensate for very minute scratches anyway?
Click to expand...

I use a flat metal bladed scraper (old wallpaper remover) with the blade edge slightly dulled. This reduces the chances of the edge digging into the aluminium surface. The odd light scratch left is easily filled/sealed by the new gasket.
Head and block surfaces should both be checked for bowing. An engine with 33,000 mls will have some deviation on these surfaces.
I only re-surface mine, when they are more than 0.004 in out of true.

The head on my 850 had 0.002 in bow and the block had 0.0015 in.
I am running 10.5-1 CR (180psi), with no gasket leaks.
 
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