• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

repair for broken float post

headsbikesmopars

Forum Mentor
Anyone have a good repair for a broken float post ? I have heard of JB weld and drilling and threading also using a roll pin. Pot metal..didn't take much to break that thing off..!!!! Mine is broken right thru the center of the pin hole, right at the top. Not enough left to drill but it does fit back on there nicely. A good epxy that isn't affected by fuels might be all I need. The sad part is I was almost finished, having to adjust float level was all and now this delay....
thanks

Terry
 
My #2 float post broke in the same place. I thought I had a pic, but I don't. Anyway, the way the float pin rests in the semi-circle hole works just fine, as long as the other side is intact. All the pin does is pivot the float and with the other post intact, it's not coming loose. I do keep my eye out for another set of 32mm carbs, but the bike runs great and I'm not worried about it.:)
 
Did a little research this morn.

Did a little research this morn.

Seeing as how strong as this aluminum brazing is, U might not even need to center drill the post. One of my original ideas was to use a roll pin to hold the post into the carb body. U could still use the roll pin to hold the part in place, but this stuff is so strong it is probably not required.

Any epoxy will need 2-3 days to fully cure before allowing it to come in contact with gas. Epoxy will not have the strength this stuff does.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=137952

Pos
 
I had same problem with my carbs when I got hte bike home and then it wouldnt start any more so I took them apart and whala broken post so I went on Ebay and bought a new set for $50 Great deal. they are on my 550 now and I have used the original set for parts......:D

thats just my idea.
 
I would like to take a carb to one of those guys and see them repair it with that crap ?? aluminum weld ??
 
I still don't understand how people break the posts off. A series of very light taps on the pin with a punch usually moves it enough to get pliers on it.
 
Thanks everyone who posted. Larry has a good point. It can't really go anywhere once the bowl is installed. I talked to a local GSer friend today and he said he has done the same thing. My brother broke some on his GS550 also. Makes me wonder how many of these carbs have been broken over the years that Suzuki has been using the CV's. My Kawasaki Triples don't have a float pin that is press fit. It just slides in and the bowl when installed keeps it from moving. Simple and easy.

Terry
 
Gentlemen, I'm working on a permanent fix for this situation. I'm an applications engineer for a company that makes prototypes, who also has a material that is chemical/heat resistant. I'm experimenting right now and am practically done designing and building. I'll try to have better pictures posted tommorrow or Tues. Anyway, attached is a picture that is a few revisions old but you'll get the idea. The newer one encloses the top posts a little better. :dancing: Fairly inexpensive also to build and ship.
 
Use a .22 shell casing, cut it to size and fit it over the post. You can then drill a small hole for the pin. .22 magnum is longer and may work better
 
Gentlemen, I'm working on a permanent fix for this situation. I'm an applications engineer for a company that makes prototypes, who also has a material that is chemical/heat resistant. I'm experimenting right now and am practically done designing and building. I'll try to have better pictures posted tommorrow or Tues. Anyway, attached is a picture that is a few revisions old but you'll get the idea. The newer one encloses the top posts a little better. :dancing: Fairly inexpensive also to build and ship.

Would the extra material inside the float bowl area cause an inballance in the ammount of fuel in the carb body and cause it to lean out or stop or limit the motorcycle before full rev's were attained?
 
When reistalling the pins I leave a little gap between the head of the pin and the post so I can get a screwdriver under the head and gently pry it back. The bowls won't allow the pin to back out.
 
The post that snaps off is the one next to the nail head on the float pin. The pin is flared just under than nail head so it creates an interference fit to the post.

If you place a small socket on the work bench, and then center the nail head of the float pin over the socket before driving out the pin, it won't snap off.
 
Grab the big end with a small pair of wire cutters and pull it out, no tapping needed. This is the one thing in the carb rebuild document on this site that should be addressed. I broke a tower doing this first time and had to get a replacement body.
 
As luck would have it, I am working on a set of carbs for an 850 that had previously broken a post. The guy that owns the carbs told me that his buddy has a full machine shop and repaired it for him. He could not give me any details, but I have taken some close-up shots to show what I think happened.

It appears to me that he machined a flat area at the bottom of the broken post, then drilled and tapped a hole.
IMG_0260.jpg


An allen-head (socket) bolt then had some smaller threads turned on it so it could be inserted into the new threads in the carb body.
IMG_0263.jpg


The head of the bolt was then squared off and a hole was then drilled for the float pin.
IMG_0258.jpg
 
Take it to a quality welding shop. It will last a lifetime and should not cost much as it will only take a few minutes to weld. I had one done that I bought that was broke, it is now like new and is fixed the right way.
 
Back
Top