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Repair of broken output shaft

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
I've got an 81 GS650GL with a broken output shaft.
I've talked to three shops, and all agree that the labour for the repair will run about 10 hours.
I don't have the skills or the facilites to split the case and tear it down myself, so the work will have to be done by pros.
Overall repair cost will likely run about C$1,000. Other than the sheared output shaft, the bike is in pretty good shape, with only 27000 km on the odometer, so she should have lots of life left in her. I'd be hard pressed to find another bike in as good condition for the price, so for now, the repair looks like the most economically feasible way to keep riding for now.

For parts, I'm looking at replacing the bottom end gaskets, the output shaft seal, and the output shaft itself. I can still get new gaskets and the seal, but the output shaft is 'discontinued' and I'll have to replace it with a used unit. That's where my question arises.

I've talked to TJ's parts in Calgary (where the bike is) and they've quoted me C$365 + tax for the output shaft, with no warranty on the part. As I understand it, the output shaft is under quite a bit of stress, transferring power from the transmission. As this is an expensive repair (mostly labour), I would not want to go through this again this season or any other time, so the quality of the replacement output shaft is critical. I'm thinking of magnafluxing the shaft before having it installed, so if it's not strong enough, I'll look for a stronger one before sinking the money into the repair of the bike. I've already missed two months of riding, and I want to enjoy the balance of the summer on my bike as possible.

Is this the way to go with this repair, or can anyone recommend a better course of action?
Thanks in advance.

Count Zero
Edmont, Alberta, Canada
 
Output shaft considerations

Output shaft considerations

CZ, I'm guessing that the output shaft setup on the 650G is similar to the 1100G. If so, I replaced my output assembly last Winter and can tell you that the cases do not have to be split.
If you do a search on this board you'll find the necessary info.
Good luck
 
Check out this auction on ebay. Says it runs great.
2415085141
 
Check these guys out, Re-Cycle Motorcycle, Stony Plain, AB. 780-963-2999 or rd400@shaw.ca If they have what your looking for, the prices aren't bad.
 
Is it broken on the engine side of the universal joint or the rear wheel side? If the engine side, forget the magnafluxing. It should come as a preassembled unit with the tension on the bearing already set. You can't get to the short shaft in there without dissassembly. I don't think you want to mess with that.

Like Al, I didn't have to split the cases or remove the engine from the frame on any of the 1100's I've done.
 
Can I help?

Can I help?

If you want I can call recycle salvage up here near Edmonton for another quote on the part price.
Email me and let me know if I can help.
Thanks,
Gavin Shafer
 
Al: I did a search on the forum and I think I found the posts you were referring to. Thanks, but I think the problem is further inside the case.
Arveejay: Thanks for the link; I'd love to get my hands on that entire bike for parts, but shipping from Florida to Edmonton would likely cost a fortune.
Chockypudding: thanks for the link - I'll give those guys a call on Tuesday and see what they can do for me.
McConnell: it seems that the shaft is broken on the engine side of the joint.
I've been working through my Clymer's manual to figure this thing out, and it appears that either the output shaft or the main shaft is sheared, as I've pulled the layshaft/driveshaft and it looks just fine - teeth on the bevel gear looks great - so the problem has to be further up the powertrain. Either way, it looks like "Black Betty" is in for some serious surgery.
Shafer: e-mail sent.

Thanks to all who have responded. I'll let you know how the surgery goes.

Warmest regards,
Count Zero
 
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