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REPLACE YOUR BATTERY (Old thread new topic)

  • Thread starter Thread starter BriTXbike
  • Start date Start date
B

BriTXbike

Guest
First what happened: 83? 850G
-Bike wouldn?t start one morning after my shift but I could run, jump, Tap the starter button and get it going. (That?s really fun let me tell ya!)

What I?ve done so far:
-Coil boots were about to fall off so changed out plugs and added 95 Katana Coils
-Went ahead and replaced old air filter.
-Changed some gaskets and checked Valve timing

What I?ve figured out so far:
-I got impatient b/c I hadn?t ridden in 3 weeks so didn?t charge battery and hooked it up to truck battery (Didn?t start the truck). I know this was stupid on my part.
-It starts with a jump once and when I rode it she does 0-60 in 1Minute
BACK TO THE BASICS
-Started to check all the connections and read like a madman for help on here last night. I will be using the Stator papers to find the exact problem but first running through all the wiring per Earl?s description http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/viewtopic.php?t=39377&highlight=battery
-I started looking at everything and I know what the rectifier and fuse box is but there are other parts I have no idea. PLEASE HELP!

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/britxbike/album?.dir=/53ba&urlhint=actn,ren:s,1:f,0

If you look at the Electrical parts pic with the fuse box on the left I get lost after the rectifier.

Battery is charging overnight while I try get some help on how I?m supposed to rewire this.
 
You havent mentioned any voltage readings. That is perrty much the first thing you need to do (as described in stator papers).

Your pictures are great. Yes, you have correctly identified the stator wires (the three in your hand) where they connect to the R/R wires. I see those connectors have been overheated, like mine were. I cleaned my connectors up the best I could with no improvement in charging voltage. Then I found the problem was where the wires connected to the connectors (not the connection between the connectors), so I cut the connectors off and used small wire nuts to reconnect the wires. That took care of my problem, but I was only haveing low voltage and hard starting. You seem to be having more problem than that. Others may suggest soldering the wires togeter but I wanted to be able to disconnect the wires for future testing ectera.

In the picture of your R/R, it seems that the connector is melted some, that true? Maybe that connector-connections needs to be cleaned up also.

But mostly you need a volt meter to check things out.

You located the rectifyer (actaully a regulator & rectifyer all in one). Only other item to locate is the stator, which is on the end of the crankshaft behind/inside the case cover, follow those stator wires. Oh, and the battery.

Maybe things will run better after charging for a few hours. Trickle charger right? 1 amp or less, right? If you are going to leave it on overnight.

Need to start with a fully charged battery before doing any testing or voltage reading anyway, so, yah, start by charging the battery.

Let us know what else you find.
 
Picture titled "Electrical componets" after the fuze box and the regulator rectifier is the ignitor and the starter solinoid.

Picture titled "What are the two connection boxes?" Its been a while but one is your turn signal relay and the other should be the turn signal control unit.

Looks like you have everything else identified.
 
Per Earl's post I figured I'd start with making sure I have a good battery, since that can screw any one of the tests. I'll check it tomorrow and make sure it holds a charge throughout the day. I meant to take a pic of the battery DANG IT ](*,)

Anyways I also wanted to make sure all the connections were in good condition before testing. You can see the bolt for the Negative battery terminal ground is solid rust, thus made me revert back to checking all connections first.

Hoping Earl gets a chance to read this b/c I read where he said the (-) and (+) wire off the R/R should be wired directly to the battery terminals for consistant battery charging but I'm not exactly sure on this.

Once someone can tell me if I need to rewire the RED WIRE from the Circular piece on the far right then I can start changing and rewiring the setup before I test, or should I test everything first?

I did get a volt meter (Should come stock with a GS LOL)

The whole thing about this is I'm a visual learner and I know if I can't see a pic I'm bound to SCREW up something outside of common sense.
 
If you want to PM me with your phone number & address I'd be happy to run by after work one afternoon & show you what I can. I've been through all this already. I live in Greenville but commute to Mesquite 5 days a week. Actually, I'll be at work tomorrow (Saturday) for a while from around 10AM-2 or 3 PM. Have some early evening plans but I bet I can fit you in.
 
Ok well this is what the stator papers have indicated up to this point. All connections were checked and cleaned before I did this.
Going from top to bottom
-Battery is less then 13.5: This might be a bad battery so I went ahead and bought a new one. I'm using the current charged one for testing.
-R/R puts out less then .2v on red and black
-With the engine off I checked Ohms between 3 stator wires and all are 0 Ohms. This would point to bad Stator at this point
I did the 5000RPM test for the heck of it and it looks like about 80 Volts. Is that possible with 0 Ohms from the Stator, or was I supposed to have the engine on while I tested Ohms?

Regardless I ordered a replacement from CIIC
 
stator will read close to 0 ohms. The trick is to zero out the meter by either adjustingthe meter with the probes together for exactly zero ohms, or on some digital meters you can connect the probes together and hit either a Zero button or a REL button ( my Fluke has a REL button)
This allows the meter to compensate for the resistance in the meter leads and gives more accurate results.
 
Ohhh crap so that means maybe my Stator is till good then b/c the Volts were reading right at 5000 RPM. Well I have a new battery now so I'll test that out and see what happens.

I thought it was kind of odd when I moved it to OHMs and it would sit at -1. Oh well worse comes worst I send the Stator back.
 
The stator is Ok if it's showing 80 Volts AC at 5000 RPM.
Now the question is: With everything connected, what is your DC voltage at the battery terminals at 5000 RPM? If it's not between 14 and 15 volts DC then you've got either a bad R/R or bad connections (since you've verified you stator is OK).
 
Simply test to see if the battery is being charged.

With the bike not running, off position, take a voltage reading across pos and neg of the battery. Then start the bike up and take the same reading. If the charging system is working the voltage reading at the battery will be higher with the engine running.
 
I will have to do that tomorrow and see what happens. Who can we let know to change the Stator Papers so everyone knows that the meter has to be zero'd out for it to work correctly?
 
There are a few errors in the stator pages I pointed out to the webmaster but they werenot corrected
 
Ok so I think I've covered the stator papers for the most part. My problem might be different though, you tell me.

-So two batteries (Tested as good at the shop) and charged
-Ran (-) and (+) straight to the battery terminals like Earl said
-When I try to start with either battery I hear the connection from the battery area when I hit the stator button BUT it makes the click and that's it. When I start it with the help of my truck battery then Bam she'll start turning everytime till I can get it started. This is where I'm currently at. CAN ANYONE HELP? :?
 
This may not be what You're looking for but it's worth checking: the starter relay ground connection.

In my case the resistance between the starter relay (-) and frame was more than 5 ohms.A new and better ground connection (resistance <0,1 ohms) made starting a lot easier.
 
Your starter might be really dirty inside, preventing full electrical contact between the brushes and armature. Your bike battery is not strong enough to overcome the resistance, but your car/truck battery is. I had the same problem (search for my other posts regarding the starter motor) on multiple bikes. Take out your starter motor out and carefully disassemble it. If it's filthy inside you've found your problem.
After you resolve this, start up the bike and verify that your DC voltage at the battery terminals at 5000 RPM is between 14 and 15 volts DC. If above, you'll boil your battery dry. If below, your battery will slowly discharge.
 
More likely

More likely

B, nabrams idea sounds more likely than mine since you are juping it off at the battery. If the relay was bad it probably wouldn't matter if you had a dozen batteries hooked up. Do you have a Clymer manual? If not I'd recommend it.
 
As a matter a fact I have a Haynes Manual. Well I didn't even think of doing this b/c I'm to busy chasing stators, r/r's, and bad batteries with all the posts I've been trying to keep up with.

This sounds like a good plan of attack for todays round. Thanks to everyone who has helped thus far, I think I'm up to a Case of beer on my tab :P
 
Well thanks to Giblet and Focus I tried to jump the Solenoid first to no avail so I've got it narrowed down to a starter issue.

My new question is the two Loong Screw bolts that hold the starter in place. I got the one off that's furthest away from the engine block but I'm at a loss how to get the one at the bottom and closet to the block. Any ideas?

I thought about removing the Carbs but the Cam chain Tensioner is in the way to. I kinda hoping I don't have to take all of that off just to get to the screw. Maybe a special tool?
 
So sorry to be the bearer of bad news :cry: but I'm pretty sure you can't get the starter out with out removing the carbs. You should be able to leave the tensioner in. I know it seems like a lot of trouble but you're gonna be doing that many times in the next few months so you might as well get in practice. It actually gets easier as you learn the tricks to removing the carbs. Might as well remove the tank too. Less stuff to work around and the lighting is better. Just take your time & whatever you do DON'T threaten to "set it on fire" in a post. That really upsets people for some reason :lol: even if you don't really mean it.
 
DOH! #-o So it looks like I'm going to have to order some new intake boots then b/c I have a good feeling the current set aren't going to be reusable. Oh wait now I need a new set of O-Rings to and I may as well give the Carbs a good cleaning since that is bound to follow. All b/c of one bolt ](*,)

I think she is trying to tell me that she's not happy with me and wants some new parts. LOL I always find the ones that are high maintenance. Well the down side is I'm gonna be without a bike longer then I thought but the good news is I'm going to know the inns and outs of this bike when all is said and done. Here I was worried about changing the Fork oil b/c it seemed a little spongy after I first bought her, BAH!

Time to write a game plan down here so I don't get lost with the next few steps I'm gonna need to do. So here are my questions now:
1. There a way to test the starter after I remove everything and inspect the starter for repairs
2. Once I get the Starter fixed I'm not to worried about boot mounts but cleaning the carbs, Can someone define to me cleaning them? I inspected what I could on the air box side and everything looks clean, she idles alright she just dies when I give it gas. Thus I wouldn't think I need to tear them down to clean them.
 
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