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Replaced Clutch and Springs- Still slipping...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Philly_Chris
  • Start date Start date
P

Philly_Chris

Guest
I just put in new friction plates and EBC springs which claimed to be 10% stiffer than stock(feel a lot more than that)

I am still noticing slippage- at around 7000 rom the needle will suddenly jump up to 9000 after climbing at a smooth and steady rate prior.

I am guessing (hoping) its the Castrol GTX 10w-40 I used. Maybe if I switch back to motorcycle oil it will go away? a friend seemed to think it was something worse, but I cant figure out what it could be. It wasn't doing it to this extent the day I replaced the clutch and oil. Now that it has soaked in , it seems to be worse

The springs are extra tight- i think maybe even too tight (too long) it was really hard to adjust the clutch so that it wouldnt drag in neutral. Im leey of putting the old springs back in every other spring, cause they are so much shorter....

I guess my only recourse is to replace the oil, but my question then is- could there be any other factors leading to the slip with what I replaced?

Thanks
Chris

1982 GS850G
 
I have castrol 20/50 in my 79GS850 no problems with clutch. I would re check the cable it may not be releasing completely. Does it feel like it is slipping or does it accelerate?? 850 don't start pulling hard untill 6-7K rpm. recheck springs service limit 1.53in /38.5mm std 1.59in/40.4mm
 
I know nothing about this stuff, but I will ask some questions.. maybe it will make you think of something.

First, is Castrol GTS10-40 a syntetic oil? They recommend strongly against using synthetic oils in motorcycles. I think thee reason would be because of the clutch, am I wrong?

Secondly, why is the clutch engaging at all in neutral? Neutral is a separate gear that is free in the transmisson and when you are in it, there should be NO way that the wheel should be getting power from the trans.

Correct me if I'm wrong, because I don't know too much about clutch problems.
 
Cluth slip

Cluth slip

I had the same problem, whenever I put the power on at high revs I got a lot of noise an increase in revs but no speed until I backed off. I stripped the clutch, washed the friction plates in degreaser and roughened them on the patio, built the thing back up after removing the car oil, put in motorcycle oil and it was OK.
MartyC
 
I missed most of this post but are you saying that you added stiffer spring but did nt need a new set of disks or had you already put new discs in with the new springs--if changing the oil solves the problem that i will drink the old oil. DID I SAY THAT :lol: It is hard to beat that castroll dyno oil--i use syntec 5-50 in my bike--most nane brands of oil are ok just dont use the type that have the anti friction additave((thats what most folks say))i never tried that type of oil myself

Follow the previous posted suggestion and Rough up and clean your existing disks first-- :D i would think
 
Castrol GTX 10w-40w shouldn't be the problem. Reading your post it appears that you may have adjusted your cable out too much in order for your bike not to creep when stopped and clutch pulled(disengaged). You have to have some free play or your clutch will not totally engage....symptoms include slipping at higher RPM's. If it were me I would try the old clutch springs with the new plates. Another thing to check is to be sure your cable is not binding and the splines on your clutch basket are not scored or grooved causing improper sliding of your plates.
 
moto_dan said:
Castrol GTX 10w-40w shouldn't be the problem. Reading your post it appears that you may have adjusted your cable out too much in order for your bike not to creep when stopped and clutch pulled(disengaged). You have to have some free play or your clutch will not totally engage....symptoms include slipping at higher RPM's.
Click to expand...

I remember about a week ago someone had the same symptoms and the solution was the same. Check your cable adjustment before you take anything apart again.
 
Did you soak your new discs in oil for a few hours before you installed them?They need to be impregnated with oil to work properly.
 
Thanks for all the input

I think I will go ahead and put the old springs back. The stupid ones from BikeBandit were noticeably longer- probably like a 1/4 inch than the old ones. I thought "wow, these old ones are shot" probably the case that the new ones were wrong- and too long. i had to adjust all slack out of the cable just to get the clevis to barely attach. I bet it is not able to fully engage. I needed to swing the clutch release arm as far as i could before i attached the cable so that when i engaged the lever, the clutch actually disengaged.

has anyone put on extra washers to get more pressure from the springs?

btw- the new plates were soaked prior to installation and there was no grooving/scoring in the basket and i steel wooled the metal plates before reinstalling
 
drinking oil

drinking oil

Dom

You are such a trusting soul to say you would drink the oil if it proved to be the cause of the clutch slipping. I can imagine a conspiracy brewing as I write this. 8)


Patrick
 
Re: drinking oil

Re: drinking oil

patrikobrien said:
Dom

You are such a trusting soul to say you would drink the oil if it proved to be the cause of the clutch slipping. I can imagine a conspiracy brewing as I write this. 8)


Patrick
Click to expand...
A conspiracy???
Know any good lawyers to protect me??
 
Philly_Chris said:
Thanks for all the input

I think I will go ahead and put the old springs back. The stupid ones from BikeBandit were noticeably longer- probably like a 1/4 inch than the old ones. I thought "wow, these old ones are shot" probably the case that the new ones were wrong- and too long. i had to adjust all slack out of the cable just to get the clevis to barely attach. I bet it is not able to fully engage. I needed to swing the clutch release arm as far as i could before i attached the cable so that when i engaged the lever, the clutch actually disengaged.

has anyone put on extra washers to get more pressure from the springs?

btw- the new plates were soaked prior to installation and there was no grooving/scoring in the basket and i steel wooled the metal plates before reinstalling
Click to expand...
The exrea washer is an old trick to get more spring pressure(it works)--My heavy duty springs purchased from http://www.murdochracing.com were the same length as the stock ones.

Please dont overlook what Brian said about soaking the fiber disks prior to installation
 
Well, I put the old springs in and it feels much better. Things went extra smooth too except for the spitting rain... It seems like all clutch work should be done on the sidestand- less oil leaked out than last time when
I drained all the oil....

Got better gas mileage today on a long trip (up from about 35mpg to 43mpg) and the rpms seem more in line with my gear and speed. I think my top speed before redline pre-replacement was just barely over 85. Suffice to say I am scared to find out my new one.

One wierd thing- after about 7k the tach needle sometimes bounces around, from say 6k-9k. Is this a sign of anything (besides a need for a new tach/rebuild)?
 
Philly_Chris said:
One wierd thing- after about 7k the tach needle sometimes bounces around, from say 6k-9k. Is this a sign of anything (besides a need for a new tach/rebuild)?
Click to expand...

Mine does the same thing...the tach is just getting old I believe.
 
lube the tack cable Turn the gauges upside down spray some WD40 into the connectors and let it sit upside down for few minutes so that it can soak in. do it 2-3 times won't hurt anything and it may fix your problem
 
SqdancerLynn1

Are you suggesting that the WD40 gets sprayed into the tach cable fitting? I have seen my speedometer reading waffle around at speed once in a while and was looking for a cleaner or lubricant that would sort this out.

Thanks for your input.

Patrick
 
Yes into the fitting that the cable connects to. I hada problem with my tack Noisey,needle bounce A little wd40 fixed the problem
 
SqDancerLynn1 said:
Yes into the fitting that the cable connects to. I hada problem with my tack Noisey,needle bounce A little wd40 fixed the problem
Click to expand...

Isn't that stuff the greatest? I bet you could use it as engine oil and never have to change your oil again! :lol:
 
ampoliros said:
SqDancerLynn1 said:
Yes into the fitting that the cable connects to. I hada problem with my tack Noisey,needle bounce A little wd40 fixed the problem
Click to expand...

Isn't that stuff the greatest? I bet you could use it as engine oil and never have to change your oil again! :lol:
Click to expand...

Great Idea--YOU GO FIRST
 
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