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Replacing clutch springs

  • Thread starter Thread starter Philly_Chris
  • Start date Start date
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Philly_Chris

Guest
I feel I haven't been able to get the full power of my 850 to the wheel(RPMs too high for gear and speed being travelled) I have decided to replace the springs. Just wondering if the clutch gasket will be the only thing I need to replace- i.e. will the clutch cover come off w/o removing anything else that would require a new gasket?

As far as I understand the procedure will be as follows:
-Drain oil (unless i want a mess)
-Remove cover hex bolts in my case- note order/location
-tap off case
-remove old gasket
-remove bolts and old springs
-replace everything + torque
-Readjust cable

Anything I'm missing?

Chris
1982 gs850GZ
 
the clutch cable. Is it connected to a lever that goes down into the cover or is it located someplace else
 
Last time I did mine I didn't drain the oil; just did the work on the side stand. If you decide to do this, have a pan just in case.

Are you sure the clutch is slipping? If it's bad enough that you have constant slipping, plan on new friction plates as a minimum, and possibly steel plates too. Another personal recommendation of mine is if you are going to replace the springs, DO NOT use heavier springs. I did that with my 1100 and put the original springs back in after 1 day of traffic. The original springs had over 75,000 miles of use on them at the time and now have 86,000. Never slipped unless the clutch plates were shot.
 
Ok,
After I have the springs out, i just pull off the plate and can get to the discs, right? I dont kneed an air impact wrench or anything, thats only for basket replacement?

Also- JC Whitney has a clutch set, but it only says there are 8. Is that right for an 850G?
 
Philly_Chris said:
JC Whitney has a clutch set, but it only says there are 8. Is that right for an 850G?

I've always heard 9 for most (I've never actaully had mine apart). I think Scotty even ended up ordering a set of 10. I can't remember what the deal on that was.
 
ampoliros said:
Philly_Chris said:
JC Whitney has a clutch set, but it only says there are 8. Is that right for an 850G?

I've always heard 9 for most (I've never actaully had mine apart). I think Scotty even ended up ordering a set of 10. I can't remember what the deal on that was.

I still dont understand why you replaced the springs--my bike is an 1100e model B which came with the 10 disks like the 1150 has (i think it has) The 850 someone who has one should know. But you didnt say your clutch was slipping.

"I feel I haven't been able to get the full power of my 850 to the wheel(RPMs too high for gear and speed being travelled) I have decided to replace the springs. Just wondering if the clutch gasket will be the only thing I need to replace- i.e. will the clutch cover come off w/o removing anything else that would require a new gasket? "
 
Make note of the different length screws as you take it appart.Your 850 should have 6 springs in the clutch. If you feel the stock spring are not doing the job. What some people do is replace every other spring with the heavy duty springs. If you replace all of them with the heavy spring it makes the clutch pull very stiff. stock clutch springs measure 40.4mm or 1.59in. Check the clutch plates while you have it apart.The dia in the book looks to show 8 clutch plates
 
I ordered my fiber plates from JC Whitney. I can't remember how many there was, but I believe they already list the part number for the 850. I have got about 3000 miles or so on the plates, and they are holding up very well. They are made by a company called Alto. Alto has been in the clutch business for many years. The Alto website is www.AltoUSA.com. I would recommend them to anyone.
 
When I am putting the plates and discs back on, should the all line up with one another, or should they be staggered so that the next one is rotated with respect to the last one?
 
Changing Clutch Springs?

Changing Clutch Springs?

I lost my job this week so bear with me and my run-on sentences:
If the clutch has been slipping and has been adjusted properly prior to this situation ( correct free-play at the lever) the springs are toast as well as the friction (fibre) plates. There's a good chance the metal plates are burned and/or warped as well. This damage is from the slippage. The material shed from the plates goes directly into the motor oil. Oil is cheap, crankshafts, transmissions, and cams are not! The filter catches larger particles and the rest circulate in the engine with the motor oil. Spend the money and change the oil/filter. Shorten the interval between oil changes and replace it again after a few hundred miles. Change the oil after a ride so lots of the crud is suspended in the oil. You can get better grip on the plates by using a mix of stock and aftermarket (stiffer) clutch springs. If you have a six spring clutch use an aftermarket spring in every other hole. This gives your clutchpack better grip but makes the lever pull lighter than a full set if heavy springs. Stock springs are good for normal riding with standard engine. I've got Barnett springs in my Katana and the lever pull is very heavy, no clutch slippage though. Also, correct this issue before riding the bike as the damage will continue until addressed.
Thanks for your attention.
street.
 
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