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Replacing head gasket 80 gs850

  • Thread starter Thread starter 520eek
  • Start date Start date
5

520eek

Guest
So I will be replacing the head gasket soon...my question is"can it be done with out using ring compressor?" Can you you be crafty enough and pull cylinders off with pistons still in them or is it to much of a pain in the arse? The bike is coming up on 30K and runs fine..no smoking and decent poer. Was just planning on doing gasket set only and seal it back up. I would prefer to wait for a few years before I do any real top end work....:cool:
 
Ring compressors are optional. There are a number of tricks to make the job of installing the cylinder safe and easy. Researching the job before jumping in is recommended.

When you do the work make sure you get OEM Suzuki gaskets. Aftermarket gasket kits are a gamble at best and downright criminal at worst. And always replace the valve stem seals (and make sure the valve clearance is set properly) when doing this type of work. Taking short cuts are long cuts in the end.
 
I have the OEM gaskets but not valve stem seals....guess I need those critters as well
 
She may only need the head torqueing down again, new camshaft end caps, oil seals and gaskgets from the head up and "VOILA!" Oil tight engine again, if not,then you can then look at rebuilding her with new head gasket and stuff, but up til then all you have paid out is a little money, time and effort. 30'000 miles for a big gs motor is absolutely nothing, and if she's not knocking, banging, smoking or using oil I would have to say there's not too much wrong with her.
We have managed to refit barrels without piston ring clamps without too many issues, but having said that, if they were available I'd use them,
It's a bitter frosty night out there.
 
robbiem1961 said:
She may only need the head torqueing down again, new camshaft end caps, oil seals and gaskgets from the head up and "VOILA!" Oil tight engine again, if not,then you can then look at rebuilding her with new head gasket and stuff, but up til then all you have paid out is a little money, time and effort. 30'000 miles for a big gs motor is absolutely nothing, and if she's not knocking, banging, smoking or using oil I would have to say there's not too much wrong with her.
We have managed to refit barrels without piston ring clamps without too many issues, but having said that, if they were available I'd use them,
It's a bitter frosty night out there.
Click to expand...
I second this. I'd loosen the head bolts a turn or two then retorque them to factory specs following the recommended order. Look to BikeCliff's site for a manual if you don't have one (http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/).
 
Don't just do the head gasket, do the base gasket, too.

When you remove the head, you will inevitably wiggle the cylinders, which will destroy the base gasket.

.
 
Okay...after much delays the time has come this for this next weekend I have a few extra days off work and will start the process. Bike has been sorta down all this time as I get a few things done here and there at the welding shop. I read the one post about re torquing head.... I have all the gaskets, tools and and time...seems like now is the time to just get it done.

I have an old clymer manual and there is even some illustrations showing a hose clamp being used for ring compressor! Not sure if that is the best idea...but if one were to take their time it just might work fine and dandy!

I will be reviewing that manual and this site over the next few days in preparation for this weekend.

Have I forgot or overlooked anything? LOL
 
Watching this with interest. Can't ignore mine anymore. Looks like somewhere near exhaust No 2. The motor has been apart before so will be interesting to see what hg was fitted if it's possible to identify it. Shims are all at the thin end so guessing the seats were cut. Tried retightening the head and convinced myself it got better. I'll check again before opening up. So much for getting it out of the way in the colder months:rolleyes:
 
Seems like, if you're going to all the trouble of pulling the jugs to replace gaskets, it would be a good time to just finish the top end refresh and be done. All you're adding is a new set of rings and hone cylinders. That's assuming the bores are in good shape which I'm betting is the case. Like others have said, replace the valve seals and the base gasket while doing the refresh.
 
Yes...I was pondering that as I was driving to work. What's a good source for rings?
 
As I ponder piston rings....would it be safe to bet that I just need stock rings, not any of oversized? From the maintenance I have done and what I can tell, it appears to have never been apart. The bike has 30K on it.
 
30k suggests stock rings, but no guarantee. I'm not sure what's the current best parts source, but I bet if you look around on the forum you will get lots of suggestions. Parts Outlaw being one.
 
Rings are around $25 per cylinder for the 850 last I looked. So not an inconsiderable expense. I'm of the opinion that if the rings and cylinders still measure within spec, then there's no need to re-ring and hone--the parts are worn in as they should be and still plenty good. Especially our hard-to-kill 8-valve shafties. Merely disassembling the engine doesn't automatically make them bad. But there are others who see it as a necessary step any time any engine is taken apart for whatever reason. To each their own. :)
 
A weekend at Steve's and this happened --

A weekend at Steve's and this happened --

When I bought my new-to-me GS850 it had a few leaks. I managed to get it running and stopping but it seemed to need several new seals and gaskets to stop the oil from dripping in several places. Steve (being a good friend) invited me to bring the bike down for a long weekend and we (HE mostly) would strip it down to the base gasket and get it right. The bike had about 32,000 miles on it and we re-assembled it with the same rings after cleaning and lightly honing the cylinders, replacing valve seals and generally cleaning and refreshing everything we could get to...
Pictures follow --
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So how did the engine performance turn out after it was all said and done? And.... I am thinking that new rings won't hurt and are super easy to install at that point. The biggest concern now is getting the valve guide seals installed... I will be asking a couple friends if they have the tool needed to get springs off and the new seals installed.
 
To get the springs off I use a large C-clamp and a cheap O2 socket with the slot widened. Some use PVC pipe and put a slot in it. Either way. Not very hard to make and fairly easy to use. The only problem I've had with getting the valve stem seals replace was getting those darn old ones off. Takes a lot of pulling twisting and turning to get them to come loose. Seems like the exhaust seals are harder to get off. Probably due to heat hardening.
 

It ran (pretty **** poor) before Steve and I did the re-do. The carbs were a mess, and I did those BEFORE we tore it down and it got better.
Then after the re-do it was carb synched, valves done, etc, etc, and it runs perfect now... I average 42 MPG city commuting (purpose specific bike for me)
And it goes fast - doesn't leak (like it did before) and runs smooth - the 850 is an amazing power plant in my opinion.
I will be re-checking the valves soon in spring, re-tourqueing the head bolts while I have it open, and re-synching the carbs.
I feel the bike ie running 'just a tad' rich and might tweak the carbs as well..
It starts easily (even after a winter layoff) and warms up and runs great.
I feel I have a bike I can own and ride for a VERY long time to come with this one...
 
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