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replacing intake boots, should i do the carbs?

  • Thread starter Thread starter oldgsfan
  • Start date Start date
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oldgsfan

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My intake boots are a mess, all cracked and peeling. I've wanted to replace them for a while and now, thanks to being laid off, I have the time. I like to look on the bright side.

I have a 1980 GS850G and it hasn't given me any trouble mechanically. I don't really want to do the carbs now, but I have thought about it since I'll have to remove them to replace the boots.

I'm wondering if there is some cleaning I can do to the carbs without dismantling them and, is that even worth it?

Also, I figured on doing some simple things, like replacing my fuel line, cleaning the air box filter, and finally replacing my fouled up choke cable which has not worked since I've bought the bike last year.

Is there a specific fuel line type that I must use or is this something I can just get a length of at the local auto parts store? And, is there any particular type of solvent I should use to clean the air filter?

Simple questions, I know. But I'm still getting to learn how to work on my bike.

Oh, and if I decide to go ahead with a full on tear down of the carbs, are there specific tools I will absolutely require? And are there kits that include any gaskets or other seals I would need to replace?

I read the Carb Cleaning Series on Bass Cliff's site, and saw that I would at least need to replace the gasket. I was just wondering if there were other things I should grab. I was gonna start on the work today.

Thanks for any and all help.
 
I always do the carbs right away on every GS I purchase because the O-rings get hard and brittle, and even if they are not leaking right now, they are very close to the end of their lifespan. cycleorings.com sells the kit you need. If the floatbowl gaskets are in good shape they can be reused, otherwise there are lots of places that sell them including Z1 Enterprises.

To clean the air filter I like to use paint thinner (mineral spirits). As for fuel line, I prefer the stock OE hose. Autoparts store hose is very thick and the ID does not properly match the Suzuki carbs, although many people use it anyway (use a hose clamp if you do).
 
Thanks for that. I'm leaning toward giving this a shot and doing the carb cleaning but I have to admit I'm pretty nervous about it..

I'm not even sure what kinds of carbs I have, but I think they're CV carbs. At least, they don't look like the photos I've seen of the VM carbs..
how do i tell for sure?
 
I agree with Nessism. If the o-rings are original or old then you should replace
them. I wouldn't worry about cleaning the carbs so much as preventing future
leaks. You should replace the o-rings and the bowl gaskets.

The other item which may be worn is the needle float valve. When you replace
the o-ring around that you should examine it for wear on the tip.

You will need to check your float heights if you pull the float valves. And you
will need to tune your idle mixture if you replace the o-rings in the idle mix
screws.
 
OK, I'll keep that in mind, about the needle float valve. If it needs replacing, any suggestions on where to get one?

- Thanks
 
To clarify what Ed said, replace the O rings in the carbs and between the intake boots and the head. Both available at cycleorings.com

Cleaning the carbs is a snap. Taking them apart can be troublesome, especially the intake boots.

You should have CV carbs, with the big domes on top. Check the CV and VM carb clean up pages for diagrams to confirm which one you have.
 
Help removing old intake boots

Help removing old intake boots

So, I've pulled the airbox and the carbs, and I'm having trouble with the screws on the old intake boots.

I was able to use a power screw driver to remove a couple of them, and I have tried an impact driver on the others but without success.

Any suggestions on what to try to muscle the remaining screws off? As you can see from the photo, the old boots just about fell off once I removed the carbs.

Also, the rubber boots on my airbox are pretty stiff. How critical are they and should I replace them with new boots, too?

Thanks as ever.

- Hector
 
This is the only way I could get mine out.. it worked for me.

I took a mid sized straight screw driver and a hammer. I drove the screw driver (from the side of the screw head) directly into the side of the screw head so as to make an indentation in the side of the screw. Then after I had an indentation made in the side of the screw head, I tilted the screw driver sideways and started driving the screw driver into the head of the screw in the direction to loosen it. Hopefully you can understand what I'm meaning. Once i broke them loose, i finished removing them the normal way :D

I was planning on replacing the screws anyway with stainless. My method worked from me.
 
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Yeah, I think I get your meaning. I'll give that a try. I've got something like five screws that are seized up, so lots of opportunities to try different methods!:D

I just really, really want to get those new boots on.
 
Yes, the airbox boots are important also. Replace them

Stuck screws are a common problem. Do a Search to see what other methods have been used. Heat, penetrating oil, cutting the heads off, etc
 
If you can at least get one screw out, You can tap on the boot with a small hammer to twist it and get the second screw loose. Vise grips work great.
I understand visegrips are now going to be made in China
 
To remove screws use a dremel to convert the screws from a philips head to a flat head
by cutting across the top of the head. Make the cut wide enough to fit the big flat
bit that came with your impact driver set.

Careful not to cut the scree too deep.

Use the flat bit in a socket driver (I think 3/8"). You may need to tap the handle of the
driver with something to impact the screw a little and loosen it.

You may be able to get them out using the philips head bit, but if you strip them then you
can do the flat conversion.

A little heat doesn't hurt either to expand the metal. But you have to worry about
rubber parts around there. Penetrating oil can't hurt.

You want to avoid the possibility that the head will come off. Because if you do then you
are faced with using vicegrips on the remaining nub (if there is one) or removing the head
for machining.
 
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Thanks. I used the Dremel method and that worked really well. Thanks for the tip. I cut the slot, sprayed tons of PB Blaster on the screw, then took the impact driver to it..

It worked like a charm. I had three screws that were seized up pretty good but only had to cut a slot in one of them.

Thanks a lot for the suggestions.
 
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