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Replacing stock brake line.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ira
  • Start date Start date
I

Ira

Guest
I did a search and couldn't find the appropriate thread, so sorry if this has already been posted.

I've noticed most posters here suggest replacing old lines and mine are in sorry shape. I'm about to order a set of braided SS lines from Z1 but I have a quick question: For the front, is there any reason I should buy two short sections instead of one long one? Mine is split in two with a little coupler that bolts to the triple tree. I circled it in this picture:

http://i.imgur.com/a4Osi.jpg

Do I need to keep that, or can I run a single line?

Thanks!
 
Hi,

Hint: If you put "
" after the URL (without quotes), you get this:

a4Osi.jpg


Another hint: Click on "User CP" in the upper left corner. Then click on "Edit Signature" in the left margin. Add your bike year/model to your sig file.

I'm assuming that we're talking about your '81 GS550 (E?) (L?) that has a single disk up front. ;)

Mechanically, yes, you can use just one single brake line. My only concern would be routing it and securing it so that it doesn't get pinched and does not inhibit turning of the forks. I'm sure it's been done before. It shouldn't be an issue. Many times, those with dual disks will use two lines, a double banjo bolt at the master cylinder, and run a line directly to the calipers on each side.

Have we seen a picture of your bike yet? :D


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Last edited:
As long as there is only one caliper there is no need for the splitter, after bleeding you should get better performace with a direct line. I remove the splitter whenever I can on a build.
 
Thanks guys. I added a signature link to my bike photos if you want to check it out.
 
Timely thread. I have new SS lines in the mail and was wondering the same thing :rolleyes:.

Any tips and tricks in installing the new lines? Is it better to drain the fluid and install the new lines dry then add new brake fluid and bleed?

I've never done a brake line swap before so any tips would be appreciated.
 
not to hijack but im looking into replacing with ss as well, i remember searching a thread on it, that stated to measure your lines from the center of the banjo on 1 end to the other, not the coupler on the lines,..

however on the z1 site it says to allow extra room for the banjos...
http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=3342

so if from banjo to banjo my front lines are 16in,... do i get a 16in line or a 13in counting 1.5in on either end for the banjo
 
I accounted for the recommended 1.5" per banjo so I would go by your math. I did this on my 850 and very recently the 1100. All worked out fine.
 
Does the coupler have a valve in it? Or is it simply a splitter? I've seen some automotive versions that have a sprung valve in the center that will close off one side if you burst a line or seal on it. That way you still maintain some braking power if something goes awry. IF it does, I'd say keep three the three line setup.
I'll look at mine to see what I have.
 
Tom R said:
Does the coupler have a valve in it? Or is it simply a splitter? I've seen some automotive versions that have a sprung valve in the center that will close off one side if you burst a line or seal on it. That way you still maintain some braking power if something goes awry. IF it does, I'd say keep three the three line setup.
I'll look at mine to see what I have.
Click to expand...

It's just a splitter.
 
I installed the Goodridge SS lines front and rear. They were easy to use, look great, and seem to work. Bike isn't ridable yet, but pressure and modulation feel good.
 
One thing that worked great for refilling the brake system- I attached the new ss hose to the caliper only and used a syringe to push new brake fluid into the lines via the bleed screw. It cut down the filling/bleeding time considerably.
 
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