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Replacing tires & tubes, chains & sprockets

hannibal

Forum Mentor
I've been enjoying the bike for about a week or so, but now I need to replace the tires and chain. The tires are 10 years old and I know I shouldn't be riding on them. I got a flat on the rear yesterday (after hitting a pothole I think). Luckily I was just leaving home so I turned around and crawled back home without incident. But I think that was my sign to quit messing around on old tires and just order some replacements. I'll change and install the new tires myself. I plan to get Bridgestone Spitfire S11, 100/90-19 in front and 110/90-18 in rear (same sizes and model currently on the bike) plus new tubes and rub strips. Any advice on tubes or rub strips? I was planning on buying some cheap $10-15 tubes instead of $30 Bridgestone tubes. I'm pretty confident in removing the front wheel, but a little afraid of the rear wheel. Found this on Bike Cliff's site: http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/rear_wheel_removal.pdf Any extra advice or pointers?

I currently have a 630 chain that is in need of adjustment at a minimum. Since I don't know its history, I thought this would be a good time to replace the chain as well. And if I'm replacing it, the consensus seems to point to a 530 chain/sprocket conversion. I'll give Z1 a call this afternoon to confirm sizes but I planning on 18T front and 49T or 50T rear. Gearing with the 49T is just a hair lower than stock (stock is 15T front/41T rear) and 50T is about 1.6% shorter than stock. Once I figured out how to remove the rear wheel, it should be straightforward to swap the sprocket. The front sprocket is more intimidating cause I haven't pulled the side covers before. Do I have to disturb the clutch cable or shifter pedal to get the cover off? This is the only pic I've come across showing what's behind that LH cover:
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How big is the head on the bolt? Do I leave the bike in gear to keep the output shaft from spinning? Any other advice on changing the front sprocket?

The last thing I should do while I'm in there is regrease the swingarm pivots. I haven't read much about this but it seems pretty straightforward once the rear wheel is off. Anything else I should look at while I have the rear wheel, chain, and sprockets removed?
 
No, you can just let the cover dangle on the cable, no need to take anything apart... But as long as you're in there take the time to clean out all of the old dirt and dried up grease on the clutch helix and lubricate it again with new grease. Often there is some bent parts and slight damage where the cable end pulls on the helix, the spring, whatever so take a look at that while you're in there too.
 
Also your motor mount bolt in that picture is either loose or it's too long. Sometimes people use longer bolts for case savers or whatever, later they remove them and the bolts are too long. Its not likely the bolt loosened itself so it's likely too long. DO NOT crank it in hard if it's too long, it will crack the engine case.
 
DO NOT BUY SPITFIRE S-11 TIRES. THERE ARE FAR BETTER CHOICES OUT THERE, EVEN IF YOU'RE ON A BUDGET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ok, now that I have your attention, I have experience with them and it is terrible. They seemed ok for about 2,000 miles, then while at a rally, turned into the most evil handling, dangerous thing I could imagine trusting one's life to. I pitched them as soon as I got home, even though they had tons of tread left on them. I didn't care that they were only a few months old, there was no freaking way I'd ride my 1000G again while they remained on it.

If you can afford them, Avon Roadriders, Michelin Pilot Activs, and Dunlop Elites all offer excellent traction and reasonable life. Pirelli Sport Demons are about the grippiest things available for our bikes, but tread life is fairly short.

A good choice if on a tight budget is the Shinko 230 (or 710). Many here use them with good results. Grip is very good, tread life ok, not as long as most premium tires but longer than the Sport Demons.

Once again, I will reiterate:

IF YOU VALUE YOUR LIFE, DO NOT BUY SPITFIRE S-11 TIRES UNLESS YOU INTEND TO THROW THEM AWAY AT 2,000 MILES.

End of rant.
 
That bad on the Spitfire S11?! I thought it was the go to budget tire. I'd probablby go with Shinko 230 as a second choice.

Thanks Tom. Not my pic but someone made the same comment about the mounting bolt in the thread I stole it from. What's a clutch helix?? #6?
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No, the rotating thing that the cable pulls on, which twists in it's threads to push on that pushrod. You will see when you look at the inside of the sprocket cover.
 
Thanks Tom.

I've heard bad things about Kenda tires. What do you guys think about Kenda tubes??

I've been looking at Shinko 230 as my first choice and Avon Roadriders as the second. The 230s come in 100/90-19 and 120/90-18. Is that 120 rear too large for my 2.15"(?) wide wheel. Shinko recommends 2.75 for the 120/90 tire.
 
Thanks Tom.

I've heard bad things about Kenda tires. What do you guys think about Kenda tubes??

I've been looking at Shinko 230 as my first choice and Avon Roadriders as the second. The 230s come in 100/90-19 and 120/90-18. Is that 120 rear too large for my 2.15"(?) wide wheel. Shinko recommends 2.75 for the 120/90 tire.

The only problem I've had with tubes lately is the Bikemaster tubes, the valves screw in too far, right past the stop and then they won't seal. Had several of them do this.
Don't know about the Kenda tubes, I avoid their tires but the tubes might be OK.

I have those exact size Shinko 230s on my '77 750, they work well. 90/90 on the front and 110/90 on the back it would probably handle quicker but those sizes will be ok.
 
I like this thread. Learn as you go!

I have a 530 chain conversion kit from Z1 that I have not installed yet. My family bought me the Dewalt drill gun kit from Lowe's for Father's Day that includes an impact gun...something I needed to get the sprocket hub off! Calling MrBill...you wanna help me here buddy!


Ed
 
I just put the Shinko 230's on my GL500 per the recommendations of the CX500forum guru. I put them on a GL650 last year but sold the bike before I put any miles on them so no experience yet. My Dunlop 404's last 10,000+ miles.
Just bought the Kenda Challenger rim savers for the GS450A. I was having much trouble finding a matched set of anythings for the 100/90x18 front and 120/90x16 rear. Couldn't go 130 on the rear (lots of choices) because the swing arm with driveshaft lacks clearance. To remove the rear axle I have to un-bolt the shocks or remove the exhaust system!! Almost as much fun as changing the oil filter in my V-Star 1100. un-bolt rear brake assembly, loosen floor board bolts, remove front exhaust header, un-screw decorative cover, un-screw functional cover!! WTF!
 
I had been looking at 100 front and 110 rear for the S11. Shinko doesn't make a 110/90-18 rear. I did see a front in that size. I checked a few retailers and Shinko's site.

Since this is my first set of tires and I haven't fully sorted out the bike, I'm gonna go cheaper than normal. If it gets me through the year (5000 miles), then it'll be a simple lesson learned.

Definitely learning as I go. Studied the clutch diagram until I figured out how it worked. Then I thought, how does it release. Found the clutch release diagram and thought, simple. Then Tom mentions a clutch helix and I'm back to scratching my head.

For the sprocket bolt, I'm going with a borrowed nut and breaker bar from autozone lol.
 
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Not to turn this into a tire thread, but I've been running Spitfire 11s on my 650G for somewhere around 8000 miles, and I haven't had a bad experience with them up to 105mph, except on hot tar snakes. They are definitely due for retirement since they have now seen three rallies with hard riding.

Surprisingly, I have been having a hard time finding matched sets of Spitfires in the sizes I need, so I am planning on going with a different tire this time around. I am currently leaning towards the Battlax or Avon Roadrider, depending on how much of a hassle it is to get matched sets through the same supplier.
 
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