Just one engineering thing I suggest, cut and weld the frame so the forks have a steep rake like a GSXR (24?-26? maybe?). That easy rider GS rake is so lame.
Rickman CR900 (Betor Fork):.............Suzuki GS750:
Wheelbase .......59.8"............................58.7"
Caster ...............62?...............................63?
Trail .................. 2.67" (68mm).............4.21" (107mm)
Steering Angle ..___?..............................40?
Another spec from a CB750 website, likely this uses the other of the two Rickman forks available:
Chassis Dimensions
Wheelbase: 57.1-59.1" / 1450-1500mm (depending on swing arm)
Rake: 62?
Trail: 3.54" / 90mm
So I am assuming that stating 62? caster would be the reference from horizontal as bicycle head tube angle is referenced, making the Rickman 28? rake and the GS750 27?. Not sure what the 40? steering angle spec listed for the 750 is.
It looks as if the lazier steering on a stock GS may be due to the large amount of trail...??? It is always said that an 18" front wheel swap makes them handle much better, less trail, slight bit steeper rake, right? The Rickman's are criticized as not having steep enough rake, but with less trail
Looking at the swingarm angle on a cr900 with the original shocks, it's not near steep enough to give enough antisquat on comfortable sporty springs, but due to the short swingarm, you can't make the swingarm angle too steep, as that will cause acceleration to try and lift the rear end more under acceleration out of turns. I'd like to put approximately 1" longer shocks on it to help with antisquat and also as a side effect increasing rake slightly, and also drop the triples on the forks slightly to gain about a degree more steeper rake. That should put it slightly closer to modern spec.
Once the bike is set up better and tested, I can have custom Billet triples made in the offset that I need for the best trail.
Sounds like I'll want to take that 28? rake and steepen it back to 27? or 26? if possible by raising the rear end primarily, dropping the front slightly. If I dropped the front too much, I would kill the swingarm angle. With this in mind, it seems that if I consider adding an additional box tube for a more forward swingarm pivot to run a longer zr550 or gs1100e swingarm, I might consider raising the swingarm pivot a slight bit higher, or in tuner fashion with a cue from Rickman chain adjusters and some fancy modern Supersport bikes with eccentric adjustable swingarm pivot geometries, I could make a slotted vertical track pivot mount with aluminum block spacers that lock in the up&down position of the swingarm pivot bolt....
Chopping the frame up front is beyond the limit of my tooling and extent of work I want to do, especially considering the amount of additional bracing that the previous builder has brazed onto the front end after the frame was repaired.... it'd be a MAJOR undertaking at this point. If I received an all stock frame with the head tube joint cracked and unrepaired, it'd be more likely.
I supposed I could unbraze the head tube only (major job) and jig the bike up extensively in front of my drill press, and shave off material from everything angling in more by 2mm or so by the bottom, and bronze weld it back in again after extensive measuring and jigging... LOTSA WORK, holy smokes...
Elevated/forward relocated gs1100e swingarm pivot, longer shocks, dropped front end height, less offset in triples to correct the trail sounds like the easier plan...