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Rick's stator and RR

  • Thread starter Thread starter OLDENUFF
  • Start date Start date
O

OLDENUFF

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Both arrived from Bike Bandit today. If I wire the stator direct to the RR I use the red to a fused link to the positive battery, The black to the neg, and the other 3 to the stator in any order? Can someone confirm please.
 
OLDENUFF said:
Both arrived from Bike Bandit today. If I wire the stator direct to the RR I use the red to a fused link to the positive battery, The black to the neg, and the other 3 to the stator in any order? Can someone confirm please.
Click to expand...
Yes, any order. Are you replacing a 12 pole stator with a 12 pole stator?
 
You wire the the red cable directly to the battery? Is that bypassing a more round-about trip through the wiring harness? what size in-line fuse do you use?
 
Last edited:
I believe it is a 10 amp fuse and yes to all other questions. Thanks all.
 
Hi,

Use a 15amp fuse when wiring the r/r directly to the battery positive. Yes, the yellow r/r wires connect to the stator in any order.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
I hope to jump in not to thread jack but to help and get help. I have the same deal here. The rr was wired the old way before, into the harness, I changed it so now the 3 rr wires go to the 3 stator wires. The black RR negative is wired to the neg battery post. Now, the red coming from the RR will get the inline fuse and go to the positive battery terminal?
So what do I do with the three wires coming into the pic at the top from the harness? the red, white/green and white/red? Just cut them and tape them off?
DSCN2405-1.jpg

The po put in new stator and rr, I know this info is all in on Cliffs page but I dont wanna mess up.
 
I'd tape up and bury the white/green and white/red wire - likely went to headlight loop on old connections. red wire on harness should also be taped up, as you are going direct to battery positive via fuse 15 amp minimum.
 
tom203 said:
I'd tape up and bury the white/green and white/red wire - likely went to headlight loop on old connections. red wire on harness should also be taped up, as you are going direct to battery positive via fuse 15 amp minimum.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the doublecheck. Has new stator and rr but output has been iffy. Wanna clean it up and recheck. thx
 
loud et said:
Thanks for the doublecheck. Has new stator and rr but output has been iffy. Wanna clean it up and recheck. thx
Click to expand...
Yep, added the fused link to battery for the positive, and capped unused harness wires, wired stator directly to rr and BOOM....charging is looking good.
Before volts would not rise to sugggested levels when rpms increased, now they rise up into higher range with rpms at 4500 . volts measured at battery at idle are even higher then before.
This simple "rewire and cleanup" is a major thing I see.So far so good. How did Suzuki miss this? :?:
 
Each stator leg outputs aprox 8 amps maximum, so the charge rate through the RR could be as much as 24 amps. In average running, with the lights on, the bike will consume about 16 amps. I always used #14 gauge wire between the RR and the battery connection and a 25 amp fuse.
 
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