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Rotor swapping question

  • Thread starter Thread starter nate25tenn
  • Start date Start date
N

nate25tenn

Guest
My rotor on my GS is pretty worn out. At my local salvage shop I found a gs1000 with drilled and rotors. Will one of these swap onto my 1979 gs550 wheel?
 
Ahhhh, a wheel rotor. (there is also one on the end of the crankshaft that can be swapped)

I think your rotor is a different diameter and possibly a different offset, but can't say for sure.

.
 
Steve said:
Ahhhh, a wheel rotor. (there is also one on the end of the crankshaft that can be swapped)

I think your rotor is a different diameter and possibly a different offset, but can't say for sure.

.
Click to expand...

I did post in the Tires/Suspension/Brakes section lol. Just kidding guess my best course of action is to just go there and do some measuring. Good to know on the other rotor though should anything ever go wrong.
 
Steve said:
Ahhhh, a wheel rotor. (there is also one on the end of the crankshaft that can be swapped)

I think your rotor is a different diameter and possibly a different offset, but can't say for sure.

.
Click to expand...

Which models/years have a slotted stator rotor? Is there an advantage to using these?
 
GSX1000E said:
Which models/years have a slotted stator rotor? Is there an advantage to using these?
Click to expand...

Since we all know there is no such thing as a "stator rotor", your baiting will not work, Eric.
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.
 
Duel disc and single disc rotors have a different diameter. The single is a larger disc and the caliper is mounted higher on the fork. If your 550 is duel and the 1000 is duel than the swap should work and visa versa. If the 1000 is a single and is like my '78 1000C, then it should have a solid(no holes) disc, not drilled unless a PO changed it or drilled it themselves. The E models came with the duel discs. The only benefit to a drilled rotor is weight reduction, and has nothing to do with stopping or cooling.
 
I'll bite!

I'll bite!

Stator rotor = that round thingy on the end of the crankthingy. It has a slot for the keythingy.
 
gsrick said:
Duel disc and single disc rotors have a different diameter. The single is a larger disc and the caliper is mounted higher on the fork. If your 550 is duel and the 1000 is duel than the swap should work and visa versa. If the 1000 is a single and is like my '78 1000C, then it should have a solid(no holes) disc, not drilled unless a PO changed it or drilled it themselves. The E models came with the duel discs. The only benefit to a drilled rotor is weight reduction, and has nothing to do with stopping or cooling.
Click to expand...

Disagree. Advantages of a slotted/drilled disc rotor:

http://www.sp-performance.com/Advantages_Drilled_Slotted.htm
 
Though I am not sure on this I do believe a slotted rotor would help with heat dissipation also?

Just posted though opened a while back and without link above.
All info that is good to know!

Hi Mr Bill!
 
Last edited:
That article has a valid point, but if you look at the rotors they display and are promoting for purchace, are for automobiles and the like and have ventilating pasasages between the disc surfaces. Later bikes and other manufacturers like on my '84 Yamaha FJ1100 use simular technology as the article states to aid in cooling, but..... our bikes don't. Ours are stamped solid steel and were drilled for weight reduction.
 
Gotcha Rick.
I always figure the extra surface (holes) would have the same though not as great affect as cooling fins.
Guess not.
 
The technology used on modern high performance sport bikes, make our brakes look like only a few steps above dragging our feet or pressing a board against the tire tread.
 
The surface where the pads squeeze are machined to ensure a flat surface, but I'm not to sure on the stainless part. I've see rusty rotors before. Then again I've also seen items that were stamped stainless steel rust also. Feel both sides of tie areas of the rotor that hasn't been machined and you should feel a sharp edge on one side and rounded edges on the other. An indication of it being stamped.
 
The Gs "1000" rotors have a different offset, the 77's and 78's for sure, they don't even fit on an 850 or 1100. I have a bunch of gs1000 rotors if anyone is really looking for those.
 
gsrick said:
The surface where the pads squeeze are machined to ensure a flat surface, but I'm not to sure on the stainless part. I've see rusty rotors before. Then again I've also seen items that were stamped stainless steel rust also. Feel both sides of tie areas of the rotor that hasn't been machined and you should feel a sharp edge on one side and rounded edges on the other. An indication of it being stamped.
Click to expand...

The rotors are SS. And stainless steel will rust just as it will be drawn by magnetism. It all depends on its grade. They are not stamped. I'd like to see a machine capable of stamping 6mm thick stainless steel.
 
gsrick said:
The only benefit to a drilled rotor is weight reduction, and has nothing to do with stopping or cooling.
Click to expand...

Absolutely not. Done properly cross drilling increases surface area, helps keep the pad surfaces cleaner and definitely improves stopping performance.


gsrick said:
The technology used on modern high performance sport bikes, make our brakes look like only a few steps above dragging our feet or pressing a board against the tire tread.
Click to expand...

It certainly feels that way, too. My GSXR has one finger brakes on the track while the 1100E has 5 finger death grip brakes everywhere.


gsrick said:
but I'm not to sure on the stainless part. I've see rusty rotors before.
Click to expand...

OEM rotors are all stainless steel, except for possibly some cast iron rotors on high end Ducati's and similar. While stainless rotors will develop a light surface film of rust when really wet, cast iron rotors turn orange if you even look at them crossly. They also offer a higher coefficient of friction than stainless and are generally superior in every facet of performance aside from the rusting issue.


rudeman said:
The rotors are SS. And stainless steel will rust just as it will be drawn by magnetism. It all depends on its grade.
Click to expand...

And this is the key. People say "stainless steel" like there is only one type made, when in reality there are hundreds of grades available. The austenitic stainless steels are the ones that are not magnetic, due to their crystal structure. There are many other types that are magnetic and will rust due the higher carbon and iron contents required for higher strength levels.


Mark
 
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