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rr broken sense wire

  • Thread starter Thread starter nahoo7
  • Start date Start date
N

nahoo7

Guest
gday all, got a new r/r and accidently pulled out the sense wire while stripping it for a connector.Will it work without it or do I have to get another one cheers.
 
It will not work without the sense wire.
You write like you are from down under. Put your location in your user cp and there might be someone near that could offer assistance.
 
thanks for the reply thought as much cheers.I was going to replace it because the the three yellow wires to the stator and the red power wire from the r/r were warm to the touch after the bike ran for 40 secs before quitting.The ohm test to the stator said it was okay.I think I will replace the connectors as they look as they have overheated at some stage in their life.Have only had the bike 2 months and still trying to work out why it cuts out all the time. 81 gs 650e cheers.
 
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nahoo7 said:
thanks for the reply thought as much cheers.I was going to replace it because the the three yellow wires to the stator and the red power wire from the r/r were warm to the touch after the bike ran for 40 secs before quitting.The ohm test to the stator said it was okay.I think I will replace the connectors as they look as they have overheated at some stage in their life.Have only had the bike 2 months and still trying to work out why it cuts out all the time. 81 gs 650e cheers.
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Wiring on these bikes needs cleaning to ensure good contacts. Sense wire doesn't carry much current so you might be able to force copper into it. Was it a used R/R? Does this bike have one stator loop going up to left handlebar switch? The idea was to open circuit one phase if the headlight was off. If you wire your r/r direct to stator, plan to keep your headlight on. When it "cuts out", is battery low?
 
new r/r the r/r in the bike is not original it is six wire and sense wire goes to switch on rear brake lever.replaced connectors and seems fine now.has new battery.just did ohm test on signal generator and fails on black/white wire so are these repairable or just replace it.didnt bother to test igniter unit yet as this may be the cause cheers.hold on b/w is ground so scratch that will do ignitor test next.
 
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nahoo7 said:
just did ohm test on signal generator and fails on black/white wire so are these repairable or just replace it.didnt bother to test igniter unit yet as this may be the cause cheers.
Click to expand...
There is a black/white wire grounding the signal generator plate to somewhere in the harness, but the key signal generator wires are blue and green, Disconnected from ignitor,they should read maybe 250 ohms measured across both. See Basscliff's site for more links to ignitor tests, especially Mr. Matchless' tests. Doublecheck connections from signal generator to ignitor and from ignitor to coils. As I said, the wiring on these bikes is suspect.
 
You could try picking the rubber seal around the wires to expose the sense wire and solder a new one on, cover with silicon rubber and you should be OK.
 
thanks for the reply matchless that was my next thought,although after replacing connections I think the old one is still ok.I think the problem is further along the chain I have spark off and on 9.6v at coils 15.5k ohms at plug leads 5 at the coil connectors bike runs then stops after about 40 secs check for spark at plugs but none. bowls have fuel no go, wait anywhere from 30 mins to 2 hours starts runs 40 secs then dies.I think its electrical problem but not sure where.cheers
 
nahoo7 said:
thanks for the reply matchless that was my next thought,although after replacing connections I think the old one is still ok.I think the problem is further along the chain I have spark off and on 9.6v at coils 15.5k ohms at plug leads 5 at the coil connectors bike runs then stops after about 40 secs check for spark at plugs but none. bowls have fuel no go, wait anywhere from 30 mins to 2 hours starts runs 40 secs then dies.I think its electrical problem but not sure where.cheers
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9.6V at the coils is not good. Run a quick jumper directly to the battery from the coils, start the bike and see if there is an improvement - dont forget to disconnect that wire while the bike is not running.

Note: Usually the +12v that goes through the killswitch and starter button is the same feed to the coils and the igniter, so your problems may be related
 
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so is that from both positive terminals on coils to positive on battery cheers.
 
nahoo7 said:
so is that from both positive terminals on coils to positive on battery cheers.
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Yes, basically you are giving them direct power and not via the fuse box ignition switch etc. Also make sure the igniter is still getting power on the same orange/white wire. The voltage should be just about full battery voltage 12.5 V or there about at the ignitor. Aways test between the orange/white and the black/white wires initially and if a deviation is found then between battery ground and orange white as well as black/white and battery positive.
 
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