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RR testing question

  • Thread starter Thread starter bobiii84
  • Start date Start date
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bobiii84

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So I went through the tests for the RR and I got to the part where I take it off the bike to find out if it's working correctly or not. I setup the multimeter for testing diodes and it shows a 1 right off the bat for no continuity. This makes sense but then when I hooked it up as you can see in the attached picture it shows me the same 1 which means that the juice isn't going through it at all. I really don't know why this would be the case since I hooked the positive up to the + out and the negative to any of the yellow wires coming out that are from the stator. When I was testing it before, it was showing that it was charging part of the time and part of the time not at all. The stator papers don't mention what it means if the result is 1 so could someone fill me in with what I'm missing? Thanks!

I tested it like the book says as well with negative to ground and positive to 3 wires, and got 1 for all of them so no continuity. Then switched it like the book says and got 1 for two of them and 518 for the other. I don't even know what that means. :/ Hoping one of you does, thanks again!

ALSO, I noticed that in the stator papers it says to use the diode setting for these tests, however, it shows the results in volts... So am I using the diode setting which should be ohms or am I using dc volts?
 
Last edited:
bobiii84 said:
So I went through the tests for the RR and I got to the part where I take it off the bike to find out if it's working correctly or not. I setup the multimeter for testing diodes and it shows a 1 right off the bat for no continuity. This makes sense but then when I hooked it up as you can see in the attached picture it shows me the same 1 which means that the juice isn't going through it at all. I really don't know why this would be the case since I hooked the positive up to the + out and the negative to any of the yellow wires coming out that are from the stator. When I was testing it before, it was showing that it was charging part of the time and part of the time not at all. The stator papers don't mention what it means if the result is 1 so could someone fill me in with what I'm missing? Thanks!

I tested it like the book says as well with negative to ground and positive to 3 wires, and got 1 for all of them so no continuity. Then switched it like the book says and got 1 for two of them and 518 for the other. I don't even know what that means. :/ Hoping one of you does, thanks again!

ALSO, I noticed that in the stator papers it says to use the diode setting for these tests, however, it shows the results in volts... So am I using the diode setting which should be ohms or am I using dc volts?
Click to expand...
reverse the wires and see if it shows 500 ohms or so. the red to the black and black to yellow wires and check them all again.

If you don't get a reading don't be surprised, failures are common. PM me for a Honda RR kit if it's bad.
 
If the stator checks good and you have checked the wiring? JUst replace the regulator the tests are not accurate
 
bobiii84 said:
ALSO, I noticed that in the stator papers it says to use the diode setting for these tests, however, it shows the results in volts... So am I using the diode setting which should be ohms or am I using dc volts?
Click to expand...

duaneage said:
reverse the wires and see if it shows 500 ohms or so. ...
Click to expand...
I have been using meters with "diode test" functions for several years and have been under the impression that, when using that function, the meter puts out a bit more voltage than the standard "Ohms" setting. This is enough voltage to break down the junction inside the diode, and the display will show the breakdown voltage.

When set in the "Ohms" position, the output of the meter is too low to trigger that breakdown, so it is more likely to give you a resistance reading, which will be relatively low in one direction and very high in the other.

Either of these tests will work, but the diode test is better.

.
 
You can use the meter in the ohms mode, hook the diode to the meter using your probe leads take a reading, after taking the initial reading, swap the probe leads and take another reading, if the high reading is less than ten times the low reading then it is bad (it's weak). If it reads "OL" (infinite) on the high side and has a given reading of (for example) 10K ohm on the other it is good, if it reads "OL" on both readings it's bad, it has opened, if it reads 0.0000 on both readings again it's bad, it has shorted.
Using the meter in diode mode basically allows you to check it under a load to see if the bias is working by using the meters internal battery.
All that a diode is is a one way valve for electricity.
 
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